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Photo: Grey Models

Menopausal moisturisers are a comforting thought. But does that mean you should change your regular cream? – asks Vicci Bentley.

If you’re the other side of 55, you’ll have been here. Your skin feels fractious and tight, but if you slap on a richer cream, you’ll be glowing like Rudolph in the rut. Ten years on and my skin increasingly throws one – something that’s hard to get used to since for most of my life, it’s been tough as old boots.

Nothing quite prepares you for how fast your face changes once oestrogen leaves the house. Dermatologists call it the ‘age cascade’ when everything seems to head south. Within five years post-menopause, collagen production falls by 30-35% and skin loses around 50% of thickness. If flatter cheeks, a wobbly jawline and scrawny neck aren’t enough, a whopping 57% loss of lipids means a thinner, leaky surface barrier that hemorrhages moisture. Lucky then, there’s an army of so-called ‘menopause creams’ to fix the damage.

When this advanced skincare category made its debut some 15 years ago, I was sceptical. Over-rich and over-priced, were they merely cashing in on the misery? The way they banged on about ‘comfort’ made them sound like old slippers, not the pertly plumping message I wanted to hear. Now I’m truly in the zone, comfort appeals increasingly. One of the side-effects of thinner skin is increased sensitivity and having recently reacted to a cream with glycolic acid, I’m playing it safe.

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AHA-intolerance is by no means a given for mature skins, but you’re less likely to find such aggressive exfoliators in 50+ creams. What you will find are omega-rich oils (and these days, they’re light, not greasy) to strengthen a porous barrier and minimise sensitivity; hyaluronic acid (skins natural moisturiser) and plant oestrogens such as soy to boost flagging collagen and help fade pigmentation blotches too. I’ve been trialling Nurture Replenish  and am impressed with the Collagen Boosting Serum, £14.95 (great price!) which seems oily at first, but settles gently to matte. Mix it with Instant Skin Perfector, £12.95, which blurs wrinkles and pores and you’ve a fabulously smooth base for makeup.

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Despite sounding like a damage pay-out for age-related mugging, Vichy Neovadiol Compensating Complex Advanced Replenishing Complex, £29.75 is a fresh-feeling gel-cream that won’t leave skin looking sweaty. Should you need a moisture top-up (on cheeks and neck, say) the Neovadiol Replenishing Care creams, £26.50 come in Normal to Combination and Dry Skin options – a welcome acknowledgement that not all oestrogen-poor skins need rich day creams.

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The time to slather it on is at night, especially now the central heating’s full on. I rarely get to the bottom of a pot (so many creams to test, so little skin), but I scraped every last bit out of Clarins Super Restorative Night Cream, £73. Loved that melt-in-the-skin texture and the way my face looked normal, not crumpled in the morning.

So am I a meno-cream convert? Well, sort of. I’m delighted mature skin’s on the radar but to be honest, I’ve tried ranges with other agendas and loved them, too (hyaluronic acid-based ones are particularly refreshing – I’ll post about these, later). Just because skin’s over-50 doesn’t mean it conforms strictly to type – as ever, there are nuances and it’s how a cream makes you feel that counts. But if it’s comfort you’re after, meno-ranges are a great place to look….

 

@craftycrone

 

62 thoughts on “Does your skin need a change? Three menopausal moisturisers worth trying…

  1. Thankyou! We need more meno skincare advice. Just because I’m over 50 it doesn’t mean I don’t care. Always wonderful to get advice on things from people who are in the same boat. Going to try the Clarins……..

  2. I still swear by Astral which I have used for 25years…… every now and then I try a ‘swanky’ moisturiser but they never seem to suit. Some years ago, however, I did ‘break’ out in extreme Rosecea (with awful pustules on my face) which lasted for over a year which I figured connected with perimenopause – I was on a course of antibiotics (Dr) and recommended a different moisturiser (Roc) which did not make much of a difference, and after various remedies I got some MooGoo powder, and went back to Astral and its pretty much cleared. (I do find Clarins make up base creams amazing though – put on after the astral!)

    1. Eimear, I also swear by Astral.. My mum still uses it at 82 and her skin is beautiful, I’m hoping to follow in her footsteps and so far so good!

  3. I’ve been using Clinique moisturiser for the last 30 years and although I’ve experimented with a few others I always go back to it. I guess the answer is to change if you really think it’s neccessary but if you are happy….leave well alone.

    I have a friend who swears by Nivea and her skin is lovely. Her Mum used it too and had the most amazing skin well in to her eighties. My Gran swore by Fairy Soap….the big green block….and she too had lovely skin.

    While I agree that it’s great to try something new sometimes I’m a bit reluctant to change when it comes to my complexion. That’s just me though!!

    1. My Mum ( who is now 88) has great skin. She has always used Nivea, with foundation on top. I think it is such a thick cream that it has given her skin a lot of protection over the years. For myself, even though I am now 62, my skin is as oily as it has ever been. I find buying a moisturiser quite difficult as most are far too rich.

  4. I’m lucky in that I inherited granny’s good skin. But I take care of it too. I used to spend a fortune on skin care but have found cheaper brands work well too. Just experiment. If a cheapo’s not right for my face, I slap it on heels and elbows instead of binning. The important thing is to be ritualistic skin care. No matter how tired/drunk/fed up I am, I do the business faithfully.

    Just recently I’ve been using The Ordinary range of serums before my night cream. It’s available only from Victoria health. It looks a bit ‘doctor’s prescription’ but there’s a guide to what to order for your needs. It’s dirt cheap – £12.50 tops and many items much cheaper. I have no shares in the company, by the way – I’m just thrilled with the effectiveness and price.

    1. couldn’t agree more. I have just recently found the ordinary products and think they are absolutely great. Normally always use Elemis products but am converted now. And so cheap!!!

  5. I had about 3 pimples in my entire life up until menopause (luck, not due to any action on my part). Since then, I’m constantly getting them, in the middle of my forehead and around my mouth. Also pretty much every cream except a rose night cream by Korres makes me break out. So weird. Anyway, I’m sticking to my Korres! (no relation, just a happy customer)

  6. I have always looked after my skin but got fed up of the way companies brought out new stuff all the time, all promising to work wonders, such an overload of choice, and the prices! I then got increasingly concerned with the number of weird looking chemicals in the ingredients.
    So I went back to ‘Weleda’ which I used years and years ago. I have to say that the eye cream isn’t working as well as the one I used from one of the companies above, but I have decided that that is okay and at 68 there are more important things for me to be concerned about!
    My mother and grandmother both had lovely skins and never used any skincare – a vague recollection my gran maybe used ‘Ponds Cold Cream’ when she got older. But then their lives and environment were so different.
    I do enjoy reading your articles. I am lucky to be living in SW France since I retired, but am a Lancashire lass like you and very proud of it! Best Wishes.

  7. I have been looking into different skincare since hitting fifty and I have read that skin is not an age. You can still have oily skin at 50 and dry skin at 20.

    I have tried a few of the “age” cream and find that it doesn’t make any difference at all. I already have dry skin and always have. I think the secret is starting at an early age to look after your skin.

  8. I’ve been using Neal’s Yard products since the early 1980’s, in those days their “rose” range and as my skin changed and their range grew others until at last, having turned sixty, I came to the Frankincense collection. They all seem to have worked well for me, never causing any problem which was a relief after various reactions in my younger days to products as apparently simple as Nivea and Ulay. I have few wrinkles even now and am constantly complimented on my skin, though I believe it may have something to do with genetics also. Sadly, however, there does not seem to be a cream to combat the going south of jawline and so on that you mention.

  9. I swear by Environ, [designed by a plastic surgeon] recommended to me by Leslie Kenton, who recently passed which was a huge shock to me she was 75-ish and was full of great info for mature women. She suggested stick with the AVST which you start with 1 moving up to 5 however the remarkable eye gel more expensive range is a massive bestseller and has totally reclaimed my right eyelid droop which was not matching my other eye so looked odd.
    The little roller with minute needles which rolls away the wrinkles is an experience in itself but works even when I am a bit of a wuss with it! It really does fool the skin into to rebuilding its own collagen.
    Like lots of other women . . . I’ve been through loads of makes to find this and this suits me now perfectly.

  10. I don’t really have a regular moisturiser as I try new things out all the time (I’m 62). However, I always, always use retinol cream underneath…1%. Since using it, I’ve lost count of the number of people who have asked, okay, then, what have you had done.

  11. I’ve recently sourced a new product that’s got the most important ingredients but at a realistic price tab! It’s being talked about by many beauty bloggers, so read up for yourselves, it’s called The Ordinary, well worth a look, I’m using their Vitamin C suspension and waiting delivery of their Azaelec Acid (waiting list for this) and finding it a great product!

  12. I continue to swing between two perspectives: (1) I should take much better care of my skin and (2) my genetic inheritance outweighs anything I can do for my skin. Happily, at age 71 my skin still looks better than I deserve. I do use the Clarins daytime skin care products (sometimes), and your blog encourages me to use the night ones, too. I always buy them. Just never use them. I’m lazy that way. I appreciate the encouragement.

  13. I too have found my skin has changed completely post 50 and fed up with all the marketing for the big product ranges and the prices, I enrolled on a course to learn to make my own natural skincare. I now make facial oils for myself, my 86 year old mum and a number of my friends. Problems range from too dry, oily, sensitive and rosea prone. Apart from the joy of learning something new and rearching essential oils and plant oils I have a gorgeous range of products all of which are natural and reasonably priced and my skin has never looked better! My next step is to get them all professionally approved for sale….who knows where that may lead! Love the blog by the way!

  14. The most important step in skincare ist a mild cleansing. Always had very dry skin and now I’m glad that there are Oil Cleanser on the beauty market, even available as Drugstore brands. I do love Clinique’s “Take the day off” Balm.
    Next is, to avoid Alcohol denat. and Perfums(doesn’t matter if natural or identic) in your Tonic and Creams. Unfortunately most Products are loaded with!
    As skin booster I like Niacinamide in my Creams. Olay contains a lot of in their products. But b/c of the perfume I prefer the pharmacy brand “La Roche Posay” and buy the tubes. Very affordable too.

    Sometimes I simply put on good old Vaseline during 2-3 nights which works great for dry skin.
    Oh, and my daily intake of Vitamin D3.

  15. You’re right about everything changing do quickly after 55. Up till then, others always said how young I looked and I felt good about my skin. But, then the slide began. I tried many different creams ranging in price. I believe the pricier brands only cost us more money but are no different than the good drug store brands. Currently, I’m using Olay for Eyes morning and night. I found others to irritate my eyes and cause swelling while I slept. I like No.7 for the day. It’s very light over my serum. I’m use Roc or Olay before bed. I’m not sure they make any difference but it empowers me to be think I’m doing something to slow down the process. I’m afraid the only thing that would reverse our wrinkles is a time machine. Got one of those? Anyone?!
    A skin specialist told me that our skin doesn’t absorb the collagen in creams, as well as taking it orally. I now take a collagen pill with each meal. It should also help with my brittle finger nails. I’ll let you know if I see any difference after I’ve taken them for a few months. Has anyone else had results?
    Wrinkles are a part of aging and I am happy to still be here to experience all that goes with age.

    1. Please let us know if the collagen pills improve your nails – I had great nails until I was 52, now some of them just will not grow for love nor money.

  16. I do exactly what Joanna does and at 75, the wrinkles are there but I have been told by estheticians that I have very good skin. One noted dermatologist in New York said of all the creams you can slather on your face, the only one she saw a difference with use was Boots No 7.

    1. Agreed. Started using their night cream a couple of years ago. It is cheap, feels good and really makes a difference. Now changing to their day cream as well.

  17. I’ve found that skin’s become oilier in the centre but my cheeks remain relatively normal. Clinique’s anti blemish solutions kit works well, with their sonic brush, to keep the centre zone under control. I’ve recently started to use Astral cream (which my mother swears by) on my cheeks and neck. I feel like an ageing teenager!

  18. I have always been religious with factor 30 broad spectrum sunscreeen since my early 20’s and am reaping the rewards of that habit now at 52. I think sunscreen is the most important skin care treatment of all. Ii have recently discovered o – cosmetics – an Australian brand and am a convert. I live in New Zealand.

    1. Thanks Jo. I was about to ask if anyone could recommend a range of skin care with sunscreen. I live in Australia, I’ll checkout o-cosmetics.

  19. I have gone full Clarins with my skin care and it is well worth the cost, the entire Super Restorative range is just fantastic and even though it is really expensive, you need such a small amount. I did discover that sometimes I thought my skin was peeling off, but it turns out, I was applying too much product !
    And red lipstick definitely hides the cracks !!!

  20. I am getting very good results on my dry, fair skin this fall with grapeseed oil. I use it morning and night, and when I wake up in the morning my skin looks great! Why pay more?

  21. My doc once told me the best skincare products are an 30+ SPF sunscreen during the day, a retinoid at night. Been following that advice since my thirties. Other than that, to combat dryness and introduce skin beneficial ingredients, I use Paula’s Choice formulations pretty much exclusively. State-of-the-art ingredients, no BS claims, and no jar packaging (which can introduce germs and whose light/air exposure contributes to rapid decline in efficacy of the product).

  22. Lately I use coconut oil al over my face and body and it makes my nails strong. Then I use Annique’s night cream for extra moisture when I feel the need to. I used nivea when I was younger. Thanks for thatsnotmyage blog Alyson, I am 61 and enjoy all posts and the different comments of all the women all over the world! I think I will try to get hold of Astra cream now.

  23. I would love to try Marnie’s face yoga but am loath to haul my face hither and yon for fear of yet more drag’n’sag if I get it wrong! When I was undergoing treatment for keloids in my early 20s a doctor recommended that I got more sunshine, it would do me good. So I did. Muchly. Fast forward 50 years+ and look at my face. No, don’t. I don’t believe there’s a cream, lotion or potion capable of covering up my now sun-damaged skin, so I don’t try. I just try and keep it as soft as possible and that’s it. So, ladies, don’t follow me, follow Moi and Jo’s example instead and slap the sunscreen on regardless of what other lovely stuff you use. I do love my lipsticks though but can’t control the bleeding things (tee hee). Any tips in that department to help make an old lady marginally more happy about her ‘outlook’ would be most welcome. (Perhaps you’re covering that in your new book, Alyson?)

  24. I read that if you apply your concealer over your lips and then use a neutral lip liner your lipstick won’t feather. Worth a try, Boadicea.

  25. LIz Earle superskin moisturiser works for me, with the concentrate for night a couple of times a week, especially on the neck. Lovely products, no faffing. I’ve tried the serum but it left me spotty. I’m not the “other side of 55” quite yet though!

  26. I’m blessed with pretty good skin, but have been using Neal’s Yard organic products for a good number of years. I love their Frankincense Intense eye cream and moisturiser. Someone told me the other day that they couldn’t believe I was nearly 65! PS I also drink plenty of water which keeps your skin hydrated as well. And best for body lotion? Weleda Sea Buckthorn – also seems to work on your lady bits (without applying it internally!)

  27. Too much sun, smoking and coffee has given me quite an aged face. Most of my family ended up like me – looking like lino-cuts! I wish I had started skincare earlier although my daughter who is nearly 30 has a very robust regime in an attempt to reverse her family history!!! Now I always remove makeup with (believe it or not) Hydrobase cream from the chemist which does leave a lovely protective film on it and find that good old Pond’s nourishing anti-wrinkle cream works as much of a wonder as is possible considering the raw materials that it is working with. Hindsight is such a wonderful thing!

  28. in relation to skincare for a certain age, i have found since in the menopause – no periods for 18 months now, that creams that used to work before are not sufficient and that my skin is left tight and sore – so I have now found that i use two products at the same time – moogoo cover up buttercup and their safflower serum, my skin is no longer tight and the cover up has the additional benefit of spf too. as for the sagging jawline – there is a product i have been using and i believe it works its called “facial flex” it is a funny looking contraption that you put in your mouth, but the days i dont use it i feel i look tired and drawn!

  29. My skin is more oily now than when I was a teenager, so I need a light, oil-free moisturizer with sunscreen. Curiously, my nails are just the opposite–they’re dry and crack easily, especially after gardening (I wear gloves), although constant applications of OPI’s Nail Envy Nail Strengther seem to solve the problem. Alyson, a thought: perhaps you could mention nails in book #2. Longer, shorter, polish or bare?

  30. I’m not sure how much is menopause and how much is general aging. My menopause came early; it was about ten years after my last period I started seeing accelerated changes in my skin, with loss of elasticity and sagging beginning to be really noticeable. At sixty, my skin is a bit less oily than it was, qualifying as combination oily/normal, but now it gets dehydrated in some spots in the winter (I think I’m going to get a humidifier this year; I’m starting to have trouble with my eyes getting dried out, too!). It’s still sensitive and rosaceic, but the rosacea zits finally went away around age 55! That’s because I finally got it through my thick head that sun protection is absolutely key in getting rosacea to calm down, and searched and searched until I found sun protection products that did not irritate my skin or give it a shiny, white cast.

    I haven’t tried any menopause-specific skin care products. As a former nurse and licensed esthetician, I focus on ingredients with some proof behind them for what I want to accomplish, and avoiding things that irritate my skin. So my regimen includes:

    1. eating well and drinking plenty of water
    2. getting a good balance of sleep and exercise (well, that’s the plan, at least! implemented better at some times than at other times)
    3. sun protection. Every. Single. Day. If you haven’t been using effective sun protection and start, you may actually see much calmer looking skin in just a few months. If sunscreens seem to irritate you skin, try using those with active ingredients zinc oxide and titanium dioxide only. Zinc oxide is especially soothing to the skin. Use a tinted one as your makeup base to deal with the white cast they tend to produce.
    4. washing off the sun protection without irritating my skin (means starting with an oil-based or dual-phase cleanser, followed by a creamy cleanser and running water — no suds!)
    5. exfoliate (I use a BHA toner every morning, because it helps sunscreen fight off sun damage and because its anti-inflammatory effects help to calm my rosacea; and an AHA serum at night once or twice a week)
    6. antioxidants (C. E, & ferrulic acid serum in the morning, to help fight off damage from sun and pollution; niacinamide in the evening, for anti-inflammatory and skin restorative effects)
    7. retinol (1% at night when not using an AHA; prescription strength could be even better) for building more collagen
    8. moisturizers with effective humectants to attract moisture to the skin, like hyaluronic acid and glycerin; plus ingredients that help repair damaged lipids in the top, barrier level of the skin like ceramides, cholesterol, and triglycerides; as well as occlusives to help hold everything in (various oils, butters, and silicones)
    9. eye creams: most are not that great — I make sure I have antioxidant and retinol serums I can use near my eyes, and choose eye creams primarily for moisturization
    10. supplemented with argan or coconut oil when the weather is extremely cold and dry

    I don’t like to spend more than I need to for skin care products (I love to splurge on color cosmetics!) so I focus on getting effective concentrations of well-proven active ingredients, with unnecessary irritants (like fragrance and many essential oils, the most common offenders) left out of the formulation. Of course something does have to feel good on my skin, and daytime products need to work well under makeup. Favorite brands of mine include Paula’s Choice, First Aid Beauty, CeraVe, and Josie Maran. But I haven’t tried them all, I’m sure there are other good ones out there! Some people like to spend more for a more luxurious experience, and that’s fine, just make sure that you’re actually getting effective concentrations of ingredients that will give you the effects you want, and that fragrance or other additives aren’t irritating your skin.

    I want to learn more about facial yoga and other facial exercises. Strong muscles and an animated face sound like a good idea to me!

    1. Anyone know where to get retinol 1% in London? And Fran, as an esthetician, do you know if it’s too risky to use on sensitive skin (with high redness) – should I actually steer clear of retinol?

      1. Jacqui, the answer with retinol (for everyone, really, but especially for those of us with sensitive skin) is to proceed with caution. It might be a good idea to try a lower concentration of retinol first. Also, try it when your skin is in a relatively calmer phase of its troubles. First, test it on a small area of your face. Then, try using it once a week, gradually working up to three times a week or every other day for a while before trying to use it daily. Even though it’s beneficial to the skin, it does have some irritating properties (as do the AHAs and BHA).

        For sensitive skin with a lot of redness, I recommend daily use of all-mineral sunscreens (zinc oxide and/or titanium dioxide) if you aren’t already doing this. I also recommend avoiding physical exfoliants except for procedures done by your dermatologist or an esthetician who specializes in sensitive skin (the basic course doesn’t really go into extensive detail about sensitive skin, at least where I live). After a few weeks to months of daily mineral sunscreen use, your skin may calm down, anywhere from a little to a lot. I put it on even if I’m only leaving the house to take out the trash. Dermatology nurses I know put it on to sit near a window (most windows allow UVA to pass right through).

  31. Fran, I wish I had the dedication to skin care that you have professionally (and all for free) advised above so I guess I am doomed to dry, wrinkled and saggy skin for all eternity! I admire people immensely who can invest so much time and money in their ‘visage’ but I know at the bottom of my boots that I am not one of them. Also, picking up on another post – dry, cracked hard to grow nails – all and any advice would be welcome on the hand and nail care front. Have been slathering on Jojoba oil and the Neutrogena fisherman’s stuff to not very much avail and my nails seem to have stopped growing completely. Thanks everyone.

  32. All respect to Fran for knowing her products and using them so diligently but I stand no chance of ever doing the same so, like Maudie, I’ll leave flying the face-flag to her. As for Maudie’s and others’ nail problems may I recommend Sally Hansen’s vitamin E oil. My nails aren’t bad but can get dry because of continuous use of nail polish. This oil, plus a twice daily dollop of Hand Chemistry (from Boots), is a pretty good recipe for half-decent paws and claws. Crikey, me giving beauty advice! Joanna: my not using make up means I don’t have any concealer but I shall try your suggestion of a neutral lip liner. I think even I can manage that! Thank you 🙂

    1. SABA organic castor oil was suggested to me for making eyebrows and eyelashes long and lustrous and for my hair as pre-shampoo treatment. Not at all difficult to wash out either. Works a treat but do obtain organic castor oil. I give my hands feet and nails a good soaking too at the same time before I take a nice long bath.
      I can actually see hair and eyelashes responding and even eyebrows looking more bushy where bits were missing before!

  33. Kaye, castor oil did work for me on eyebrows and eyelashes, and it seems to work even better warmed up (but one needs to be very careful of course and try at one’s own responsibility). It also works on hair, applied with a toothbrush on the scalp, covered with shower cap and wrapped in a towel, left overnight. After six months of weekly application hair is thicker, but darker (especially naturally blond hair).

    1. Aneta I have a short pixie haircut so real easy for me to just massage my hair and scalp with the castor oil . . . and then after a bit I jump in a nice bath so I guess I get my heat there . . . however yes with long hair I see what you mean with your suggestions.

  34. Kiehls 24 hour moisturiser… perimenopausal and still in my 40s but skin has changed quite dramatically in four years. Had to ditch regular moisturiser (Dr Hauschka) which
    I loved but Kiehls has been life/ face saver…

  35. I had an early menopause and 30 years ago there was no internet to find things out. I have to say I was lucky and went onto HRT so no real problems.
    I’ve been a bit of a butterfly over the years as far as skin care brands are concerned.
    Now 76 and I’ve been using Merumaya products for some time.
    My treat is a Dermalogica facial, best one I’ve ever had, nails done, shortish with Leighton Denny Butterfly Wings and eyebrows waxed every 6 weeks or so. Plus use mask at home when I remember.
    My Christmas present to me is Pestle & Mortar Superstar – Retinol Night Oil, read very good reviews and got a 20% discount. If it’s not for me I’ll try one of the Deciem family, the Ordinary has had fantastic reviews.
    And I’m gradually going over to Look Fabulous Forever products.

  36. For the past few years I have used Caudalie skin care products, with considerable success. I’m in my mid sixties but fortunate enough to still have good relatively unlined skin. These products are made with grape seed oil and cause no irritation. I use daily the Vinosource cream for dry skin and their exfoliator for sensitive skin. For eye cream I like Ren eye lift. Very good under make up. Lifestyle and diet do contribute. Lots of water, fruit, vegetables, not too much booze with dry days, no cigarettes and sun cream always. My preferred brand is La Roche Posay or Avene. Skin cream for sensitive skin by Avene is also a very good product. These French pharmacy brands are now widely available in shops and online.

  37. Met a beautiful lady of 81 shopping today with The Most Beautiful Skin that I have EVER seen on a woman of ANY age. I had to compliment her as her skin was stunning. According to this gorgeous Irish lady she was brought up in Ireland washing in the cold stream at the end of the garden, only had a bath once a week in a tin tub as a child (she was last to go in as she had 5 younger brothers and sisters), has never drunk alcohol or coffee (she doesn’t like it), never worn cosmetics (she didn’t need to), washed her face with Johnson’s baby soap and water and drank 6 pints of water every day of her life. Honestly, Alyson I have never seen such unlined, wrinkle free, soft healthy looking skin in my life!

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