Margaret Howell on older models
Isn’t this a fantastic photo of Margaret Howell? Apologies for not crediting the photographer, I found it on Pinterest and haven’t managed to trace it back yet. Last week, I went along to listen to the notoriously private designer in conversation with Gentlewoman editor Penny Martin, at the V&A. This was Howell’s first ever public talk, so it was a big deal – and a full house. As a part-time lecturer myself, I’m always interested to hear other people speak, I’m always on the look out for helpful tips and anecdotes to perk up my own performance. One of my favourite Howell comments was, ‘ I used to get quite nervous and can remember mum saying, “All you can do is your best.”‘ Her best is pretty damn good in my opinion:
Discussing the early 1970s days, the Annie Hall period, she paid tribute to slow fashion, ‘ I spent about five years doing men’s shirts, then I did a jacket, then trousers,’ and on the Margaret Howell aesthetic, ‘ People used to say it was like putting on an old friend, and there is something in that. The style is not smart and chic, it’s quality, but relaxed quality.’ A lovely selection of images accompanied the talk: old family photos – including a fabulous picture of Howell’s very stylish parents walking on a beach, in what looked like the 1920s (baggy trousers, mum’s hair in a bob) and one of the designer as netball captain at school, this was one of my personal favourites (I was netball captain too). On the closure of her local pool in Ladywell, south London (Mr TNMA swam there as a boy), the 66-year-old remarked, ‘I was hoping that with the Olympics, they would realise that people like swimming.’ Sadly not. And discussing her athletic side, ‘ When you’re in a pressured business, you have to have some form of exercise.’
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| Photo by Jill Kennington. National Portrait Gallery |
I was interested to hear that Howell has been curating her archive, ‘ The aim is to build a story for future designers that come and join the company. To give a foundation to the look, to follow, to modernise. And maybe, maybe, one day turn it into a book.’ A Margaret Howell book. Yes please.
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| Photos: Margaret Howell Irish Linen, summer 2013. |
At the end of the talk, there was a very brief opportunity to ask questions, ‘Is anyone brave enough?’ asked Penny Martin. And up went my wobbly hand. Howell is one of my favourite designers and I properly love her work, but couldn’t resist asking in a very shaky voice,’ Er, hello, sorry I’m really nervous – oh god my voice is going, I sound like Gwyneth Paltrow. I love your aesthetic and what you do, ahem, but I can’t help wondering why you don’t use older models?’ Gulp. And the reply:
‘I would love to, and have done so in with past collections, it is a bone of contention. But sometimes…working with the press, we have to keep them happy.’
TNMA:’ But people would love to see older women, women like you or me – with wrinkles.’
And then Penny Martin jumped in, saying she thought Howell did use womanly models, not young girls. That the aesthetic has changed and fashion’s preference is no longer for fresh-faced teenagers, like Lily Cole. But I disagree. Unfortunately, time was running out and I didn’t want to bore on. But Miuccia Prada was asked a similar question recently and she replied:
‘Let’s say I’m not brave enough, I don’t have the courage.’
If there’s one designer who has the power to make the industry change, it’s Miuccia Prada. I think it’s terribly sad if strong female designers feel that the pressure from the media is so intense, they can’t put their clothes on older models. Women who look more like them. Women who buy their clothes.
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| Model with more of an ageless look/face: Margaret Howell A/W 2013 catwalk |
What do you think?
Discussion (34 Comments)
Tiffany – oops, I meant that the model in the last picture has more of an ageless face. Not that the outfit is ageless – it's a very nostalgic, Margaret Howell look. And yes, I agree. There is a point to using younger models – brands trying to sell more/appeal to a younger market! It would just be nice to see a bit more diversity. Both Margaret Howell & Pradan design clothes that look fabulous on older models/women. It's such a shame
YAY, thanks for writing this! i don't understand why Miuccia Prada says that she's not brave enough when she has done it with older male models (ok, famous actors but still). I know menswear and womenswear are different but as you said, if anyone can be a game changer, it's Miuccia Prada.
I loved the Margaret Howell talk too but bloody hell, I wish people would sort out the sound in those lecture halls, the acoustics in that place were absolutely appalling! Also… how do we muscle our way into the MH archive???
Sad that it takes courage to use an older model in 2013. Strange that companies feel that we are OK to sell to, but not OK to advertise they sell to us. I would buy more from any brand that used aspirational models my age (49 this year) and above. That you had the courage to raise this, and giving us a forum to discuss this, is building courage and momentum. #doingagreatjob
Here in Germany we have magazines for let's say 40+ (Brigitte Woman, Donna) but even their models are of that agegroup, they are always the perfect 43yr old model wearing a size 36(8)… I do have a small size but naturally my body isn't 25yrs old any longer. I wish there would be more of a diversity shown in age, height, size or skin.
Annette
Lady of StyleI think her marketing is stunning visually so she is getting it right somewhere. However, she has built up such a strong and loyal following (both older and younger) that I think she can afford to take the leap. Toast do it admirably well – I love seeing the mix of the older models in with the young and it makes the clothes just seem ageless. Also, I think the younger generation who do like her clothes will totally understand and even appreciate the older models. I look on MH herself as the perfect brand model herself and can only hope I have half as much style as her when I am older.
I appreciate that you had the courage to speak up about the inclusion of older models. It is also a disappointment to me that models of color are seldom used.
I am always looking for older women portrayed in fashion magazines, articles, and ads…especially with the boomers coming of age, I expect it…but to little avail. Our culture wants young, sleek, smooth, and thin…something fleeting, instead of something beautiful, tempered, and strong. I constantly long for our collective thought to value the latter…after all, we are the customer, as Patti points out!
It's wonderfully shaky Gweneth voices like yours that are going to aid in the tipping point that provides the change- I just saw Ari's pictures for Australia Vogue- so beautiful! I hope Prada, the fashion industry and ourselves finally work up enough courage to include the full spectrum of beauty and age into what is fashion.
Am really impressed Alyson (you're so brave) – great that you asked that question…I would have thought that Margaret Howell's clothes would look fabulous on older models – pity that she doesn't feel brave enough or in such a position to use a few more older ageless faces to model. That said I think she is amazing, her talent endless and her clothes fantastic. Must have been great to have been there. S x
I noted in a recent New York Times feature on M Prada, that she wasn't brave enough to take this on yet. She said something like,,, I can not change the rules. Mercy, if she can't, who can?
Well done for asking the question! It's unbelievable that we're still at the stage where the idea of using older models is considered 'brave', rather than perfectly normal.
Yes, I read the same article in NYT and was really disappointed in Mme. Prada's response. She could change the world if she wanted to. If not her then who?
I cast Helmut Lang's shows and we used models of ALL ages, it's what made our cabine stand apart. No one ever criticized us for it.
Why not use Cindy Joseph? She has the body of a youngster…but the hair of someone "our" age. I think it is a copout …come on…be bold
loved that you were brave enough to ask the question and am depressed by the answer. seriously?
Brava for asking the question — I suspect it will continue to echo . . . hope so, at any rate.
Ha! Now I know where all my pinning is coming from. Yes to all…especially the shot of the shirt…love that!
xxWonderful post Alyson. Well done for being brave and asking the question. Xxxx
I can't wait to begin seeing older models – I know it's coming because women who age well are so inspirational – and they are usually the ones who've had the least surgery, interestingly. Life isn't necessarily fair in the aging well department but at least it's good to know that it Can still be beautiful, because that is still inspiring.
@Preston Davis – the Helmut Lang casting was iconic (can I say that? You know what I mean) and isn't is interesting how the models who were young at that time (Stella Tennant, Kirsten Owen, Marie-Sophie Wilson) are still working now? They had interesting faces/personalities with real character.
What a poor excuse – from both of them – have you seen Chanel has been using Tilda Swinton in their lastest campaign – not that Swinton has wrinkles but she is older. And guess what? The sky hasn't fallen down!
It was great to see the photo of MH taken by sixties model and photographer Jill Kennington. It nudged my memory.
She is a delightful and still very beautiful woman who was a great recorder of 'those days' for us sixty something art students of the 1960s.
I had the great fortune to visit her studio and home last summer in the Dorset Open Studios and to see her latest landscape work.
well done for asking
have you seen the Daniela Gregis shows?
at least two older models and stunning clotheswe'll get there eventually
Right ON! Women Boomers are a *huge* market. Why would ANY of us support designers who, essentially, insult us by saying how we look cannot be represented on the runway?
I'm committed to "voting with my wallet." If we would all buy ONLY from designers who use models our age – and let designers know who we buy and why we do NOT buy from others – things will finally change. Money talks in a very loud voice! (we can extend that practice to magazines and newspapers, btw – which would transform the press).
ANY justification of "young models only" (or even mostly) is simply BS and cowardly capitalism.
Let's support their learning to step UP courageously. Isn't that the POINT of more time on the earth?
xx,
mgh
(Madelyn Griffith-Haynie – ADDandSoMuchMore dot com)
– ADD Coach Training Field founder; ADD Coaching co-founder –
"It takes a village to transform a world!"
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Fascinating that even someone who is CLEARLY designing for US (ie not 20-somethings) still feels she can't consistently use older models.
But there is a point, I guess, to using young models: I think the second last ensemble, the blue top with the black pants, is ageless; but I actually think the last look would look horribly frumpy on anyone over about 35 … or over 120lb.