Why we need older models like 62-year-old Mouchette Bell
Mouchette Bell modelling for Toast
The lack of diversity in the fashion industry is hardly breaking news. For years we have been fed a very narrow view of what is beautiful (young, thin, Caucasian models). But the situation is evolving. We are seeing change. And this is largely down to social media. Midlife and beyond is visible daily when we scroll through our Instagram feeds, or read our favourite websites and blogs. Women are sending out a powerful message: this is what we look like, this is what we wear, get over it. Increased democracy and the sheer size of the older demographic has disrupted the fashion industry. Last week I went to see Caryn Franklin talk about her career and she said, ‘ What is happening right now is truly exciting. The causes people are mobilising behind, such as diversity and sustainability…where you choose to place your money and who you support is very powerful.’
The ageful message is finally trickling into the mainstream. Older women are visible in some fashion magazines and advertisements, diversity and representation are being championed. But we don’t want to be patronised and so we do need to keep pushing. ‘We are conditioned to think ageing is a state that must be arrested,’ continued Franklin, ‘ But what if young women are surrounded by images of older models? There is a pleasure in seeing such diversity – and this can impact on the fashion and beauty industries.’
Enter these beautiful pictures from Toast’s latest lookbook of 62-year-old model Mouchette Bell.
In her twenties, Mouchette modelled for Italian Vogue under editor Franca Sozzani but then stepped behind the camera to become a freelance stylist for British Vogue, Mademoiselle and Elle. A couple of years ago, she returned to modelling in her late fifties – and I ran a feature on That’s Not My Age. I’ve enjoyed following Mouchette’s second coming, her image has popped up everywhere from M&S and Harvey Nichols, to Clarins and these autumn/winter 2019 images for Toast. At 62, she is enjoying this stage of her modelling career and has found a renewed sense of confidence. ‘People’s concepts of beauty are changing. [Clients] know I have a few wrinkles and creases, which I’ve earned and they like it. Now I don’t have to be perfect’ Mouchette told Grazia, ‘Things change all the time. [Hopefully] it will all become balanced and hopefully get to the point where we just cast all different people and ages and genders just because we see their beauty and appeal.’
When we get to the point when a more inclusive representation is the norm, then I think we will have achieved something.
Discussion (38 Comments)
Helen says:
I love Rachel Comey’s clothes and shoes and style, but the fact is that even though she uses some older and non-traditional models to showcase her products, she still tops out at a size US10, which is hardly inclusive of a great many mature women, even ones who would be called “thin” by normal standards. We need to make progress on both fronts: how they market products, and also who they’re built for.
I totally agree with you Alyson, we need more diverse models of all ages. Older non-Caucasian models, in particular, seem to be thin on the ground. As someone technically Caucasian, but with a Mediterranean complexion and look, I have not always found it easy to match stereotypes of beauty in place for women of all ages – the Northern European type – and my modelling career has not always thrived. But things have definitely changed for the better from when I began – I was in my late forties then and there was very little work for middle-aged and older women. Now at 62, I have been able to participate in several high profile campaigns, some of which I cannot mention yet as they are forthcoming. My model agency, Grey, has been very supportive.
Diversity and sustainability are intertwined, a point you have made on more than one occasion. We have already seen changes at the level of representation in a major magazine such as British Vogue – look at the new September issue! But we need even more.
It is thanks to people like you, who continue to write about such issues that we are witnessing a shift in the way women and men think of fashion and what they want to wear.maudie says:
Ms Bruni – Just looked you up on Google. I hope you find yourself awash with modelling work – you are beautiful and a perfect example of the models that we would all love to see a lot more often.
Hi Alex, very interesting reading your post and I think you have put so well into words some of the prejudices that I also have encountered and felt as a 63 year Caucasian old model but with Mediterranean looks like you. Thank goodness for people like Alyson who are flying the flag for us .
Fabhat says:
When this popped through the door the other day I was really pleased to see it. Toast have always pushed an idea of arty boho chic but the models were pretty mainstream. Exciting to see it moving forward and here’s to diversity becoming the norm not the exception!
Mrs Tonia says:
I agree with this point of view. I was pleased to see this different brown skinned slim model in the Toast pamphlet which I too received through the post.
Clothes look very wearable on the model. But it’s still the same body type they have used previously. Though here older, with a different complexion.
I recall your featuring her previously Alyson. But I didn’t recognise her in this new Toast campaign. But it’s certainly a move in a better direction.
Maisie says:
Those photos on Toast’s new lookbook are fabulous, owing a lot to beautiful Mouchette, she makes you want to buy everything ! Hope we see her a lot more. The only reservation I have is that she is very thin, I’m thinking of getting the orange corduroy skirt, which looks great with her tiny waist, I’m afraid it might not on me ! So maybe not truly representative of most older women.
( I wonder where the location of the photo shoot was ? )Funny, I was just looking at the Toast website this morning. I ‘defected’ from them as I thought that they were too expensive. However, as a lover of all things Margaret Howell without the funding to afford her magnificent clothes, Toast to my mind are of the same concept of well made, classic wardrobe ‘keepers’ that are produced in (generally speaking) good quality fabrics with generous sizing. (Still a size 12 and holding but my mid-section is doing it’s own 60 plus thing and expanding of it’s own bloody accord). I immediately spotted Mouchette (what a fab name!) and wondered who the model was. Now, thanks to TNMA I know! What a beautiful woman she is. No makeup, no cheesy fake smile – just a natural poised woman who wears the Toast clothing effortlessly. She is wearing the clothes and the clothes are not wearing her. I think a few years back Toast used Daphne Selfe who also looked stunning. So a double whammy – I re-embrace Toast and salute them for their enlightened employment of Mouchette.
Moira Dennison says:
Earlier in the year I did an online course with the OU on ‘Making change happen’ my project for the course was to challenge the stereotypes of older women in the media. So I think Toast’s campaign is very welcome. We also need to be wary of not replacing one stereotype with another hence the need for more and more diversity & visibility !
Yes, I completely agree, Moira. There is a danger that campaigns become tokenistic – when it feels like there’s a kind of ‘diversity checklist’. This is why we need to keep pushing …
lizzie g says:
have to agree, i appreciate Everlane’s campaigns where they show the same garment on size 8 and size 14, short and tall models. if you want to reflect readers, or society, we need more than 25 inch waists, whatever the age or ethnicity.
tara vh says:
Lizzie G, you said it! Seeing clothes on a variety of bodies is totally part of the picture. I applaud Everlane for this, and also Malia Mills, a swimsuit/clothing company that shows every body type and colour imaginable.
I have no idea why more brands don’t do this, Lizzie. It is such a good way of showing clothes and makes perfect sense. Surely it is worth spending money on a wider range of models to attract more customers?
Claire B says:
Actually I think both M&S and Monsoon feature women of different shapes in their campaigns – at least on Instagram and on the M&S style emails I receive. And while I’m not always a great fan of her style, on her blog Trinni Woodhall often features the same clothes worn by herself and her photographer who has the opposite shape. Why more brands don’t do it I don’t know – probably because they’re trying to appeal to aspiration and not reality.
Sarah says:
Love her look, how inspiring to see a women looking great as she ages, really owning her age, stage and style. A great post, thank you Alyson.
Maria says:
Hello Sarah, I think that I have grown old and still looking good my age.. I’m 55 this year
What a charming way of saying it! “A face with life written on it.” I may have to borrow that.
madelaine says:
Seeing this gracious model actively makes me more engaged with the Toast clothes. I agree with Fabhat’s comments that this feels like Toast going where they’ve been heading for some years now in terms of finding models who look like the brand feels…
So interesting.
I saw the new Toast ad and wondered about Mouchettes age.
Recently I was in a Toast shop..I buy a lot of their clothes, and mentioned to the sales assistant that Toasts older customers should be more visible…and she said it wouldn’t happen…that Toast marketed to a younger set!
I’m delighted and at 64 typing this wearing my Toast dungarees with a charity shop kimono!Joyce Morris says:
I’m 71 now and Toast are my go to wardrobe basics. What a ridiculous comment!
Well, Toast may be marketing to a younger set, but you only have to read the clothes reviews to realise that they have an awful lot of older customers. Seems like they are waking up to that, but I would like to see the whole range photographed on women of all ages. And as the saying goes ” it ain’t what you wear, but the way that you wear it “!
Chris says:
I think it’s a welcome and long overdue change to see older women being represented in the fashion industry. It’s a start toward diversity, but, with a few exceptions, most of the older models you see are tall, thin, fit and considered to be “aging well.” That just doesn’t represent everyone. It’s another aspirational image. The day that fashion can be truly be considered inclusive is when women of a variety of sizes and shapes and ethnicity and with their natural attributes, including signs of the aging process, are represented. Still, progress is being made and that is something to applaud.
I have bought and worn Toast clothes for many years, mostly buying them when well marked down in price in sales. The models have tended to be tall and willowy without hips or busts. But maybe they are moving to embrace the customers who buy these clothes I’ve seen young women in the streets wearing them but whenever I’m in their boutiques in the Home Counties I only see middle aged or older women looking at the clothes. So they clearly suit a wide range of ages and body types and do last one because of the fairly classic cuts and quality fabrics. Now with less to spend on new clothes and trying to shop my closet to the maximum, I didn’t buy any of the spring or summer collections. But was thrilled to find two pieces I had really wanted available in my size in a second seasonal markdown in my local John Lewis Toast concession. I now have the indigo ikat long full skirted dress I had my eye on. One left on the rack. All I’m going to do is either add a zip at neck or side seam to make it easier to get in and out of in warm weather and stitch down the pleats over stomach so it lies a little flatter. These sort of tweaks I enjoy doing. And I managed to buy a coral colour silk pyjama top shirt with a Japanese motif. Again something I resisted getting because of the cost until it was reduced. Both are keepers.
Toast is doing a good job in providing classical clothes in good fabrications and promoting a women’s cooperative in India in the case of the woven ikat textiles as well as hand block printed items in the most recent collection. And mending workshops. All to be encouraged.Catriona says:
Thanks for posting this Alyson. Like others, I received an email from Toast profiling their new collection. I did a double take when I saw these photos, I genuinely didn’t notice her age first, just that the colour palette’s exciting, the styling perfect and she looked effortless. After a few minutes I did consider her age, but that came well after I had admired the photos. Seems like Toast has made a good choice, Mouchette clearly has more going for her than just a fabulous name.
Gwen Ewing says:
As a fashion loving woman turning 62 in November, this was such a joy to read and see! I get inspired by these older models, they are the epitome of class. I love style and fashion as much now as I did in my 20’s&30’s, now I have more time and money to enjoy and pursue what I like.
Wendy in York says:
I agree with Maudie , Toast & Margaret Howell are similar . MH fabrics are far superior , especially the woolies , but then the prices are far higher . When I visit their shops around here it is very noticeable that the customers are older , like me . It has always puzzled me that both companies used such young models so I was pleased to see Mouchette this season . I think these clothes actually look better on her than the very young girls , who sometimes look like they are playing ‘dress up ‘ . It’s the marketing world of course & all the same prejudices apply to male models too . They are mostly young & thin with hair . A very silly policy .
Isobel says:
Mouchette looks fantastic in Toast clothes! Every outfit is wonderful, top to toe. She’s a very young looking 60+ though… I’d quite like to see older women modelling who look their age (as I do!!).
paula c says:
This begs the question is how old do have to be to look ‘older”?
There are far more women walking the streets now who don’t look 60+++ and still look naturally lovely without any surgery cosmetic procedures. This may be down to good genes, lifestyle or just dressing well. Either way I look to these women has encouragement in maintaining oneself in the years ahead.
Yolande Knight says:
I like the Toast aesthetic, and buy from them from time to time, but don’t buy as much as I used to because of the lack of diversity in ethnicity, age, size and shape of their models. As such, I’m happy to see the use of Mouchette in this new campaign, BUT I’m still finding it difficult to see myself in the clothes. I’m a fairly average 50-something sized woman, with boobs, and really do find it an issue when all the models in a campaign look nothing like my shape. Especially for Toast, where I have to buy online (I don’t live near one of their shops), and it costs to return. So, yes, hurrah for diversity in modelling, but I still think back to one seasonal campaign they did maybe a decade ago which really stuck in my mind, using models covering a range of sizes and ages (though sadly not ethnicity), and I could imagine myself wearing so much of that collection.
karen says:
i don’t know about what they do in other countries, but here in the US, the best example of inclusive modeling, both of age and size is QVC….yes, the TV shopping network….always has models of different sizes, different complexions and more and more of different ages…..and they don’t up charge for larger sizes, offer footwear in wides….
Paula says:
I’ve also been a Toast customer for many years and can remember the first pair of pyjama style trousers I bought in the days when this was basically all they sold. At the age of 63 I rely heavily on the reviews written by women of a similar age for reassurance that it’s still ok to invest in the styles they promote and which I love. I wish that Toast would regularly use older models, who haven’t had Botox, fillers etc, to reflect their true target market.
Spags says:
A shout out to Gudrun Sjoden whose models are always diverse – including showing the odd item on a man.
Kim Brown says:
I’m a black 62 yr old women who’s been trying to get into the modeling industry for years!
I will not stop trying!!!!! This has been my life long dream..
Inga 
AppleEverAfter 
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Rachel Comey., is the first designer I have seeing, in America, hiring mature women to showcase her goods! I buy her stuff because of that approach, the quality and the smart details.