Bold or natural: what kind of lipstick lockdown are you having?
Friend of TNMA Jan Carrington has been loyally using Rouge Christian Dior lipstick in shade 999 Satin for years
In a recent New York Times article, women were interviewed about how they are relaxing their make-up and grooming regimes during lockdown. Many were relieved to get off this hamster-wheel and coined the term JOLGO (The Joy of Letting Go). But one woman refused to give up her lipstick saying, ‘That’s who I am.’
So it got me thinking about the one – or two – make-up items that we don’t feel comfortable without – that have become a part of our identity. My friend Annie confessed that dab of perfume gives her a boost for Zoom meetings, even though she knows no-one will smell it though the monitor. Another friend refuses to appear without her eyebrows. In the unforgiving wash-out of my laptop camera, I find I feel more confident video-conferencing with some lipstick on. It is a mini-shield that helps me (psychologically) take on the world.
Some women are using this period at home to go make-up free but I’ve noticed a definite ‘Lipstick Effect’ during lockdown. In the early 2000s recession, Leonard Lauder (Chairman of the Board of Estee Lauder), coined the phrase ‘Lipstick Index’ as an inverse economic indicator, meaning that as the economy gets worse, women stop spending on expensive clothing purchases and instead lipstick sales increase. It makes sense that we are choosing to invest in these affordable luxuries right now, as we’re facing one of the greatest economic uncertainties since the Great Depression.
Laura Dern using Burt’s Bees lip balm. Credit: Vogue
Face-to-face contact requires – and will probably continue to socially require – the wearing of masks. Wide-spread masking will put emphasis on the eye and eyebrows (not to mention the current Botox crisis as some high-maintenance faces take risks to have a top-up). But for those of you whose lipstick has become their identity and refuse to let it go, now is the time to make the best of your lips… while they are still on show. To help, here are some of 2020’s hottest lip colours re-imagined for the digital screen:
GLOSS
Your lips will look well-moisturised and the shine will give them a different dimension from your face on the flat screen, win-win.
Burt’s Bees Lip Shine tubes with sunflower and apricot kernel oil for hydration
Autograph Colour Shine Lip Lacquer in Nude is great over a lip liner
Glossier Clear Gloss with vitamin E for healthy lips
NATURAL
Pick a natural shade that works with your colouring but with an undertone of pink. This will enliven your lip, instead of it blending into the pale.
MAC’s Twig – a warm-toned shade seems to work well on almost everyone which is why it has been copied endlessly since it became Kate Moss’ fave in the 90s
Chanel’s Rouge Coco Ultra-Hydrating Lip Colour in 434-Mademoiselle
Tracey Ellis Ross is wearing MAC’s Ruby Woo. Credit: Vogue
RED
I’ve noticed a lot of celebrities using a vibrant red lip against a no-make-up look. The red says, I am not superficially wasting my time getting made up when there are more important things going on, but I have made an effort for you.
Maybelline Colour Sensational Crème Lipstick in 311 Crimson Race – a true red
Rouge Christian Dior lipstick in shade 999 Satin – Jan Carrington’s lifelong favourite (top picture) – a classic opaque red with a matt, smooth and long-lasting finish
Lancome L’Absolu Rouge Lipstick in 151 Absolute Rouge – a richer red
Chantecaille’s Lip Cristal in Carnelian is as close as I could find to the shade Julia Louis Dreyfus used in her Social Distancing PSA, plus this vegan lipstick contains no parabens, fragrance or phthalates and is gluten- and animal-cruelty free
Mac’s Ruby Woo – a matt red which is a staple in hair and make-up artist’s kit bags
NOIR
Not since the punk era have dark lips appeared so relevant. Similar to a red lip, ‘noirs’ register a presence, but their sombreness is a better reflection of the grief, fear and general malaise of social isolation.
NYX Matte Lipstick in Goal Digger – a deep violet
Huda Beauty Power Bullet Lipstick in Masquerade – a deep aubergine
Becca Ultimate Lipstick Love in Maroon
Fenty Mattemoiselle Plush Lipstick in Griselda – a deep burgundy
HOW TO GET LIPPY
It’s a good idea to prepare and soften the lips before applying lipstick, recommends hair and make-up artist Louise Heywood. If lips are rough then gently exfoliate them with an old toothbrush or flannel (or you can buy lip scrubs). Moisturising the lips should be a regular thing, put some Elizabeth Arden 8 hour Cream Skin Protectant The Original on while you’re doing the rest of your makeup and then by the time you get round to lips it should have soaked in. Blot off any excess.
Use a lip brush when applying a strong lip colour advises Louise, as the line you get with a brush is clean but never harsh as it can be with a liner. Put one layer on and then blot and add another, to help it last longer. If you like a liner, Louise suggests using Lipstick Queen lipliners – ‘they do a clear liner which is great as you can obviously use it for any shade it just helps to stop any ‘bleeding’.’
Alexia Economou is a design and culture journalist, and regular TNMA contributor @thedesignfeedTW
Please note affiliate links in this post may generate a small commission
Pre-lockdown photography (top picture): Claire Pepper Hair & makeup for Jan: Louise Heywood.
Discussion (35 Comments)
Boadicea says:
As a real Ancient (80, but whisper it low), I have been searching for my perfect red all my life, all attempts leaving me looking like a vampire who’s just eaten. Thank you SO much for these examples, Alyson, I shall check them out as soon as I’m let off my lead. As someone who has never been able to work out her complection colour, ever, all and any help is most welcome. Who knows, if I’m lucky I mightjust keep the vamp in vampire, albeit at this late(ish) stage?!
Anna K says:
I cannot imagine life without lipstick – I wear it every day of my life, including – especially! – during lockdown. And I dress up a bit after I’ve flicked a duster about – nice top, silk scarf, a bit of CC cream and a dash of scent. Nobody sees me but it’s good for morale!
Thanks for the red lippy tips. I’ve been searching for The One for years. Mary Quant did a perfect one back in the day and I’ve never found its equal – should have bought a hundredweight.
Elaine Crisp says:
I absolutely identify with the search for the right red and skintone dilemma. I can’t wear a ‘red’ red as I’m cool fair skinned, and now at 61 grey(ish) hair which is whiter at the front which I love. I just bought a Clinique Chubby Stick Intense in a berry red shade … when I applied it, it looked way too strong, so I blotted it and it was just fine, plus they are moisturising, so comfy to wear. Good luck with your search.
Suzanne says:
I have coloring similar to yours and my favorite red is Clinique Chunkiest Chili. It’s a sheer red that I can layer.. its not harsh and I don’t feel my lips enter the room before I do.
maudie says:
Was the Mary Quant one ‘Jezebel’? – fond memories of Quant and Biba makeup. My perfect foundation was Biba Yellow 2.
Barbara McGovern says:
I’m using this lockdown time to use all those ‘mistake’ lipsticks and it’s fun! Eyebrows lipstick and blusher no foundation or mascara. Think this may be my new regime
Stephanie says:
You are spot on. Yes, the joy of realising, clean and fresh but no need to make up. The one thing I did panic buy, vaguely, was two Bobbi Brown Crushed Lip Colours, Cranberry and Cherry with the idea that I’d be set up for Autumn come what may. After the liberation of Bergen-Belsen concentration camp by the British in 1945, the camp was full of disease and starvation. When eventually these things had begun to be dealt with effectively, it was noticed that on the women’s ward where among everything else these women had been stripped of their very identity and perhaps even the will to live, someone suggested that they should be given lipstick and they were and the effect, it would, seem, was immediate and remarkable. Lipstick is a very powerful friend it would seem and so it feels some days.
Anne says:
My favourite was Paloma Picasso’s Mon Rouge… unavailable of course unless you look in Paloma’s fridge.
Penny Solomons says:
At the start of lockdown, I asked my husband whether I should continue wearing makeup. Not asking permission, just for his opinion.
“You don’t need it” he replied. So I’ve not bothered since.
I’ve also been feeling blue since lockdown. So many things I was looking forward to have been cancelled. And – reading this – I’ve had an epiphany. This is the first time in my adult life I’ve gone without a bit of slap. I’m going to start again today, before we go out for our walk. Hope it works
Mrs Tonia says:
Hope you can feel better Penny I certainly find making an effort with my clothing and putting on makeup every morning then a spray of scent makes me feel more like myself.
I would say most days I put my makeup on, mainly because it makes me feel better. I love a good lippy, and am a big fan of No 7 Soft Paprika or Soft Cherry if I’m going for a full on red. Also loving Dior Lip Glow for more natural/laidback days.
And I’m also still spritzing on the fragrance. Why not? Besides, it helps check that my sense of smell is still working 😉
Andrea says:
Glad it’s not just me. I used perfume last week for a call with my crew and I felt so much better. No one but I could smell it but it lifted me so much.
I have worked from home for several years and a friend told me just before I made the transition – keep a bright scarf and a lipstick on your desk ready for the unexpected call. It’s not for their benefit it’s for your!Robyn says:
Most days I wear light makeup too. Putting on jeans, and makeup instead of lounge wear seems to help me be more focused and productive.
Anne Murphy says:
No makeup pottering around in the house/garden. Used to wear lipstick when going out…even dog walking, but my face mask removed the need!
Oh goodness, I feel a failure. Not a drop of makeup has touched my face since the start of Lockdown. Moisturiser and that is it! Shame on me?
Nah, I’m pretty low maintenance when it comes to makeup, so my beauty regime hasn’t changed at all. Eyebrows, mascara and Burt’s Bees tinted lip balm ( quite chuffed that Laura Dern is a fan, too…)
Hilary says:
Make up and perfume every day even though I’m not going anywhere (I am 71)
I did however leave off the nail varnish for over a month and used a lot of creams and oils on my hands and nails,and yesterday I enjoyed painting my healthy looking nails for the first time.
avicennia says:
Light makeup and lipstick every day for Zoom work meeting during the week and Zoom family meetings on weekends. I have to remember to wipe the lipstick off before I head outside with a mask. Which is rare, maybe twice a week.
Sandy Smith says:
Lipstick, eyebrows and earrings…a spritz of scent ….whatever’s going on. I do it for me!!!
Does anyone remember their first lippie? Mine was Yardley Pink Magic, hastily applied on the top deck of the bus on my way to the cinema. My classmate and I decided we’d see if we could get in to see an ‘X’ rated film and the lipstick was an attempt to look ‘grown up’. I suspect we looked more like the cast if the film…it was a horror!
No makeup mostly, but a “natural” lipstick that I don’t have to apply with my lipstick brush. However, when I do “get dressed” to go to the grocery store or to socially-distance visit the grandson, it’s makeup as usual. Gotta stay in practice! Hard to remember lipstick not needed with a mask. By the way, my three-year-old grandson has been commenting on and complimenting my outfits. Boy, does that warm the heart!
Ladies and Gentlemen,
Never do a Zoom without makeup. Powder your nose and draw those eyebrows. And lipstick! OMG. Pleeeeze. Yessss..
I wear Lipstick Queen Sinner in Red, Rose or Plum. Plum is a little dark, so I suggest sticking (no pun intended) to the Red or Rose.
It’s creamy and does not bleed into those little crevices around the lips. It will last through your Zoom and beyond. And wear some bright colors and a necklace. You don’t have to worry about what you have on below. Place your computer so the top of the computer is on the same level as the top of your head. I use books and boxes to elevate mine. Have good lighting, with a lamp behind your laptop. And I do urge you to style your background. Arrange your photos or bookcase so show that you have panache! The world is watching. Happy Lipsticky Zooms.This has reminded me I MUST get the Dior 999 Satin that I applied to Jan – it was such a great red for her colouring and a lovely texture too.
MaureenC says:
Some lipstick, particularly if I’m “seeing” friends on zoom. Perfume everyday, I’ve got a pretty extensive collection of both classics and more niche perfumery so I’m enjoying working my way through them. It could be called a perfume habit but I prefer to think of it as an indulgence. My household are used to it and as I’m not in public I don’t need to worry if my fragrance is too strong!
Beverly the Inspired says:
Wonderful “Gentle Reader” post—thank you. I’ve been remiss these past weeks; only putting on my face for bi-monthly marketing. Remedy coming up tomorrow!
My fav “red” is an old Smashbox brand cheek stain, O-Glow.; fingertip-dab on & doesn’t transfer. It does require wee bit more pre-hydration. A clear/nude lip liner is always a good investment!
p.s have been playing with magnetic eyelashes lately. Really draws attention to the eyes, especially while wearing masks.
Much of interest here. Thank you Alexia for this conversation.
I’m very much of the makeup and perfume every day school. Brows with two shades and types of pencil mixed together to cover the grey brows back to dark. Then concealer, blush, eye shadow and lipsticks on top of lip balm. Ren one the best but I’ve also got a Lavera one for sensitive lips from a health food shop. Inexpensive and moisturising. I’m using up all my old lipsticks mixing them together as a function of colour of clothes I’m wearing that day. More pink, more golden etc. I’m wearing my summer scent a Dior cologne Escale a Portofino ordered from Boots since it’s not available to buy. Smells cheerful and of lemons. I don’t care if it’s a day I have meetings on Zoom or see no one. The effort to look like myself creates a sense of order and normalcy which I find steadying in these crazy times.Amelia says:
My mum is 91. She wears a Jolie Rouge Red by Clarins. Number 741. It is perfect. Bright and soft at the same time. She’s a beautiful woman anyway but 741 seems to complete and lift her. She reapplies very frequently! She has Alzheimer’s and I’ve noticed that her make up routine is one of her most hard wired activities. And it has got bolder. Eyebrows that were once feathered in in grey are now feathered in in black. More rouge too. Way to go.
Maisie says:
Natural or bold lip colour depending on my mood. Always on top of lip balm since I prefer a matte lipstick but they can be drying. A CC cream to even out my rosy skin, and a smudge-proof eye crayon since I have a runny eye. I wear these if I’m going out but if not it’ll probably be just moisturiser and the lip balm.
Oohh yes I do remember my first lipstick. A chalky pink Miners one ! And a few years later lots of Mary Quant.First lipsticks for me were Rimmel stacking ones I used to save up my pocket money to buy. Ditto stacking eye shadows which I bought from local chemist. My mother wore a lot of makeup and lipstick always from first thing in morning. I’d go and play with her makeup in her bedroom alcove which had a sink and glass shelves of makeup.
Sarah P says:
I love a bold red lip, but have previously done it with very long lasting stains (Maybelline is the best I’ve found). I am experimenting with ‘cleaner’ cosmetics and I haven’t found any stains that really hold up. Currently I’m enjoying a warm pink by Burts Bees.
Step says:
Bobbi Brown’s Art Stick in Dusty Pink is my go to. I have to wear a mask at work and my lips get very dry, but when I change my mask to drink I reapply my lip balm and lippy automatically. No-one can see it but it makes me feel together and normal.
Selina says:
Lipstick and perfume is my thing. I refuse to go without them. I’m usually in a bare face bold lips look anyway so for zoom I always wear lipstick because otherwise I just look washed out. Perfume even when I’m at home because why shouldn’t I enjoy it? I don’t keep things for best because you never know when your next occasion will be
Ursula 
Leave a Reply
This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.
In January I was ill and wore no makeup. But since I’ve recovered, without fail, even if I don’t go out for my regulation short walk (because I am very much self-isolating from crowds and shops) I put my eye makeup on plus a good amount of pencil on my eyebrows. The emphasis on the eyes is not just about mask-wearing. I was a contact lens wearer but now I wear big statement specs so the eye makeup is essential, I think and especially the eyebrows. Lippy not so much – as long as the lips are moisturised they’re good to go.
So no, I haven’t let myself go. I want to know if I catch myself in the mirror that I am the same person as always and the eye makeup is key to who I am. It just is part of my life.