Closet Conundrum – how do you know what to keep and what to chuck?

Photos: Claire Pepper
I’ve held onto these bootcut needlecords since the 1990s – and that’s because I knew I’d wear them again. Obviously over time, silhouettes and shapes change, but patience and a little wardrobe space carried these bootcut cords through the Skinny Jean Years. This pair of Timesaving Black Trousers were worthy of a reference in my first book Style Forever – though the secondhand tracksuit top that once accompanied them is long gone. After a recent post someone asked how I knew which clothes to hold onto. Ooh, good question. How does one know? Sometimes it’s instinctual, sometimes there is a bit of magic and mystery (and occasionally guesswork) involved, but is there a formula? Are there certain questions that can shine a light on the closet conundrum of what stays and what goes?
Taking control of an unruly wardrobe equals a more refined personal style, a clearer vision of what you wear and less faffing around in the morning. I have found getting dressed and putting outfits together much easier since we had a proper built-in wardrobe fitted. And that is probably why I’m giving some of my old favourites a whirl. Wardrobe editing is a constant process – I’m about to engage in a mini-decluttering session now that the spare room looks less like a vintage furniture shop (anyone want a chest of drawers?) and more like an organised, calm space.

Back in the bootcut
As we get older, we are less inclined to buy into faddish trends; it’s more about finding reliable clothes that we love. We lead busy lives, requiring more ease and simplicity and less Faff Factor. What we want is to put clothes on in the morning and know they can make us feel confident and comfortable for the rest of the day. This is where Knowing Your Style comes in. Here are six questions to ask that might help when it comes to figuring out which clothes to keep and which to give to charity:
Do you really like it? Everyone is Kondo’ing like crazy at the minute and so ask yourself does it Spark Joy? Do you feel a positive reaction/ an emotional connection when you look at, pick up or stroke the item of clothing? If the answer to this question is ‘yes’, then it’s a keeper. If it’s ‘no’, then let it go.
Does the garment you’ve been hanging onto suit your current lifestyle? After years working as a fashion editor, and then a part-time academic, I now cycle to a shared office space. I dress for comfort, freedom of movement and to please myself. I no longer need kitten heel shoes and more business-y dresses. These are not my signature pieces.
Are you prepared to give the item precious wardrobe space when it’s taking a fashion sabbatical? Is there something else that would be more versatile, deserving and all-round fabulous?
Would you miss it if you gave it away?
Is the garment in good nick? Fabric condition and amount of wear and tear are obvious considerations. I’m more likely to retain an item that has quality and status and will do me proud when it’s unleashed again – often this is an investment piece, not a one-season wonder. Cheap, flimsy fabrics and anything worn out (that’s not a pair of jeans) can be chucked.
Does it fill well and make you feel good? If not, then why are you holding onto a dud?
And when you have a little extra space in your wardrobe for some Not So Basic Basics…
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Do you have any wardrobe workout tips?
Another excellent photo portrait by Claire in which you look both well-dressed and confident with your trade mark striped top and white trainers. I like the term Closet Conundrum. Unfortunately I can’t commission a special wardrobe to fit my clothes so have to make do with the less-than perfect built-in hanging spaces which came with my current house.
I have been editing my large stock of clothing for a year or so, before during and after moving. I only gave away things I never put on because they seemed too tight, too low-cut or too formal. Looking at the illustrations here I’m glad to have retained several pairs of a more classic shape of black trousers in wool, linen and silk/linen mix. This will save me having to track down similar trousers which may now be pricy. Ditto several pairs of wedged espadrilles and mid-heel mules I’ve retained. Given the high price of shoes, clothing in natural fabrics such as silk versus polyester I now appreciate my tendance to retain any clothing of quality. But with the understanding that it is still a good and flattering fit for right now. Keeping things I basically would like to wear has helped me retain a size that can still fit into my clothes even if several years old. When I had the prospect of my son’s wedding last summer and could not afford a new outfit for the occasion I knew with confidence I owned several silk dresses and appropriate jackets and shoes and accessories to make a reasonable and photogenic outfit. The same scenario was repeated a few weeks ago when I needed a good outfit to attend a smart wedding here needing enough layering for being outside for drinks and later indoor dancing after a meal. Again a trusty long-sleeved silk dress and wool jacket I had never worn together but perfectly colour matched and creating a new ensemble with existing elements. And on my feet a longstanding pair of silver Prada shoes with mid heels and ankle straps. Perfect for a lot of standing around and twirling about Both of these outfits came about by endless trying on in daylight, checking in mirror, experimenting with footwear, jewellery and handbags to find something that seemed to look appropriate for now and the occasion.
In sum, I’m not in favour of the rule to dispose of things if unworn for a year. I’m glad to have stocks to call upon.