That’s Not My Age

All photos courtesy of Justine Tabak

In her early 50s, after designing for high street fashion brands for almost three decades, Justine Tabak set up her own business. ‘I felt disillusioned with the high volume, trend-led, ‘buy for discounting’ culture of classic fashion retail and wanted to approach a slower, more crafted way of working.’ Now, eight years later, aged 60, her eponymous label has gone from strength to strength. Rather than expand to meet growing demand over lockdown, Justine maintained her original ethos and has kept the company small, manageable and sustainable. We met the other day for a catch-up and ended up spending most of the time enthusing about summer linen. (Justine was wearing the Stepney Dress, above).

This Liberty print dress is not linen – but it is lovely!

Here’s Justine’s advice on how to wear and look after linen, and why sustainability is so important:

Please could you tell us about your ‘ buy less, love more’ ethos and why sustainable clothing ends up costing more?

For the last few decades we have become programmed to buy more, buy into fleeting trends and not think about quality. Fashion has become fast and completely disposable, led by a completely irresponsible system. Buying better, buying into quality and longevity, will by nature almost always be more expensive than buying a product that is mass-produced; but price-per-wear should actually give you much more value. More value in lots of ways: sustainable fashion is made in smaller quantities using fewer natural resources so it’s better for the planet, and by making a considered choice that will be loved and looked after, you gain more value. Quality natural fabrics, like linen, are sustainable and recyclable, yet hardwearing and comfortable. They become even more beautiful with age.

Buying local, also adds to local economies, putting back into the tax system and helping to create strong communities and bonds between the maker, designer and consumer. It’s good to know that living wages and jobs are being created in this country, at the same time as building a creative community that promotes individuality and care for design and quality.

Buying British has always been close to my heart, having worked for many decades for big brands in an era that saw the decimation of local manufacturing. Many small, sustainable designers are now returning to a ‘buy less, love more’ small production ethos, where clothes are treasured for their unique qualities and kept forever.

Justine’s daughter Daisy now works for the company part-time

Why is linen such a brilliant fabric? Please give us the linen lowdown!

I love linen, all year round, and surprisingly I sell linen equally well in winter, as in summer. It’s a brilliant fabric to wear, feels cool and comfortable in the summer, wicking away moisture and sweat, whilst naturally retaining heat in winter. Natural linen really does adapt to the seasons. As a designer, I love how linen takes colour (in the dyeing process) and love creating new combinations of colour with checks and tartans (at our fabulous weaver in Ireland). It can look cool and crisp or warm and muted, yet always with the beautiful ‘dusted’ bloom that comes with linen over time. With washing, just like a beautiful vintage tea towel, linen remains hardwearing, sturdy, yet soft and malleable to the touch, truly comfortable.

In my early career, I had worked with a mill in Wexford, Ireland; this family business has worked with linen for three generations. Sadly, over the decades, high street brands moved to buying cheaper, thinner linen from the Far East. When I started my own brand, I knew I wanted to return to the more artisan approach of the Irish weaver. I also found that their linen was heavier, tougher and is washed and finished to create a naturally ‘rumpled and lived in look’ rather than cheaper linen that creates hard creases. In Japan, where small, niche brands are revered, Irish linen is seen as a truly luxurious cloth, which is deserving of this beautiful natural fabric.

I like what you said about Irish linen having a gentle crumple, not being super-creased like lighter fabrics. Tell me more…

The quality of Irish linen is world renowned, a heritage fabric with centuries of expertise literally woven into the cloth. I use quite a heavy linen with a tightly woven thread count for luxurious durability. It is pre-washed and tumbled to create a naturally ‘rippled and softly rumpled finish’ but it is light and subtle and the tightness of the weave means that it does not create hard creasing. When I sit up, any light creases literally fall out and after washing, I simply hang before wearing. No ironing required!

And finally, can you give us some style tips? How do you wear linen in summer (and autumn)?

In the summer, I love wearing a ‘throw and go’ linen dress which is super comfortable and breezy. I find an oversized style captures the movement and ease of linen. In the winter, the same dress could be layered over a cotton thermal, or with an oversized jumper over the top. I think the matte look of linen lends it particularly well to wearing with wool. A weighty, fluid linen trouser makes a good alternative when you are looking for comfort. We are planning a Black Watch tartan, linen trouser for autumn that looks great with a navy jumper. It’s a more informal way of wearing tartan and more interesting than ubiquitous denim. Linen manages to be a fabric that supersedes trends, it creates the effect of a vintage piece, while looking thoroughly modern.

Read more about Justine HERE. And find out about her visit to the Irish linen weavers HERE.

Justine is kindly offering That’s Not My Age readers an exclusive 20% all products in the ‘All season linen collection‘

To use the discount sign-up to the newsletter, then use code TNMALINEN at the checkout to redeem.

Code valid from today until 15th August.
Valid for international orders.
Non-linen items are excluded from this promotion.
Code cannot be used in conjunction with any other offer.
No substitutions or cash equivalents.
Valid online only at  justinetabak.co.uk