Vest in show: the many ways to wear a waistcoat
Photos: Sarah Brick
This week in New York, Dior showed its autumn/winter 2024 collection inspired by Marlene Dietrich. All the gentlewomanly favourites made an appearance, including: white shirts, waistcoats and pleated trousers. Even though I love tailoring and menswear-inspired pieces, it has taken me a while to jump on the waistcoat bandwagon. Too many memories of 1980s middle-of-the-road musos and rude waiters. But now I am belatedly enjoying the layering opportunities a tailored vest can offer.
According to our sources, M&S sold out of its zingy lime waistcoat within 48-hours (there are plenty of other options HERE), and Aligne’s viral vest actually has a waiting list. But despite its sudden popularity don’t dismiss this as another flash-in-the-pan fashion fad, the wearable waistcoat has staying power. Just ask Patti Smith.
Back in the post-punk years I wore my brother’s second-hand men’s waistcoat over one of my dad’s old white shirts, with DIY drainpipe jeans and bovver boots. This time round I’m wearing my own clothes (but still keeping an eye on the second-hand menswear department for tailored pieces) and pairing the Clever Crepe Waistcoat from The Fold with an oversized white shirt and cropped boyfriend jeans.
The right to bare arms.
While we layer our way through the last of the wintry weather, the waistcoat looks neat over a long sleeved T-shirt or slimline, jersey roll-neck. Smart tailoring always looks chic teamed with slouchier, slightly scruffier pieces, and the waistcoat adds structure to cargo pants and baggy trousers. Or bring it home, like Gareth Southgate, in a three-piece suit (there are tonnes on the rails right now). Then tie the look together with a pair of loafers, pointed flats or slipper shoes.
Last summer, my waistcoat wanted to be alone so I wore it with nothing underneath (above). For a slightly dressy-do I teamed a black waistcoat with a black satin slip skirt and my trusty Teva Originals (gotta take the edge off somehow). The tailored vest also looks the business buttoned up (or open) over a classic white T-shirt and jeans. And, if your personal style leans more towards the bohemian, try the waistcoat open over a long-sleeved maxi dress.
Even more wonderful waistcoats, below – and for more timeless style buys, we have just updated the SHOP for spring.
STYLE NOTES: Some items are gifted or loaned.
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Discussion (18 Comments)
Carolyn Triance says:
Thank you so much for this helpful selection of waistcoats, Alyson. Both the cream and the black one here look good on you. I didn’t have any luck with the fit of the rather nice Toast canvas one (not mentioned here), so have gone for the Whistles dark denim waistcoat after admiring it here today. Thanks again!
Bev says:
Oh yes. Love a waistcoat! eBay my best source of small men’s waistcoats. Over a long dress de-prettifies it. Over a white tee shirt adds another interesting layer. Waistcoats will always be in fashion for me!
Mo says:
Hi Alyson
I have favoured a waistcoat to top off outfits since the 70s. Like you, I have found that men’s waistcoats look good over a loose white shirt or a more fitted t-shirt and can be picked up inexpensively in many charity shops. Last spring and summer I finished off many a maxi dress with the black or cream fitted waistcoats from Zara. As you say, they add a little edge to outfits and I’m glad to see that they are once again in vogue.Fran says:
My beautiful floral corduroy waitcoat that I made in the late 1980s is still on the hanger in my wardrobe. I wear it every year, in spring and autumn, with a white shirt – the fashion never went out (for me anyway)!
Debs C says:
I watched the Dior show this week and am loving the tailoring and ties, which I think will definitely be influencial on the high street, although something we can certainly replicate now, by raiding men’s wardrobes, alongside the waistcoats and the interesting turn on cropping coats and jackets (though not sure it is worth buying into this trend, but I like the look). This resurgence of tailoring, reminds me of the mid 80s and I can remember I blew a month’s wages at Jaeger, Regent Street, on a navy blue pure new wool pinstripe suit, with a wide trouser. I’ve always loved a suit and had a few in my wardrobe, but none as expensive as my Jaeger, but many still well made, as both Next and M&S in th 80s still manufactured in the UK and the quality, alongside the fabrics are something I miss. I used to work for a very famous ad agency and can remember they hired the Trocadero in London, for our Christmas party, and I purchased a tuxedo (black satin collar) suit from the original ‘Next’, which I wore with a white wing collar shirt and a black velvet ribbon tie. I still wear items from the husband’s wardrobe, with a real fondness for grandad shirts, or which I have a few now and I bought a new, tatty packaged, men’s dress shirt years ago from Debenhams, who were closing down their formal dress department for a fiver and I still have it. It is made of a beautiful quality white cotton, a pleated bibbed front and is oversized for me, but it is a great look on, especially when worn with a smart black trouser and a pair of sparkly pumps (many of which I have from years ago, so the new resurgence is yet another excuse to put them back on).
Amanda nicoll says:
Can I ask where you get your grandad shirts from cos I’m fancying one myself and can’t find one v easily? Thanks
Believe it or not, ASDA menswear. I bought a white and a pink shirt this year. The white is out of stock (although not the first time they’ve had them as I have two stripped versions), but the pink is still available. They are a linen / cotton blend.
Those were the days, Debs! I used to take the collars off my dad’s shirts and wear them ‘ deconstructed’ and oversized.
And that’s a good question, Amanda. I have several shirts from Arket and Uniqlo (admittedly, mine have collars but both brands do sell collarless styles). Toast always has a number of collarless shirts in its collections and there’s also the independent brand With Nothing Underneath. Hope that helps.
Mrs Tonia says:
A shirt with collar can always be taken to a tailor or alterations place to have collar removed as long as shirt has a neckband as men’s shirting does.
Great look Alyson. Fresh and practical as well as fashionable piece of layering. Open, buttoned what you will.
Not for my busty figure I feel sadly. But good on others.
AppleEverAfter says:
You look great in both these photos – I particularly like the first one, so cool. And I sniggered all through dinner at ‘The Right To Bare Arms’. Serves me right for reading while I eat. Great combo of fashion and humour, thank you!
I’m still kicking myself for not keeping the black vest that I made for myself many years ago! Who knew that it would be right back in style now?
Lesley E says:
I have a black velvet waistcoat, which my late Mother-in-law gave me as a birthday present many years ago. It has long periods of just hanging in the wardrobe, but then out it comes again over a white shirt, or tee shirt with jeans. Love it!
A black velvet waistcoat sounds like a dream item for me.that wonderful smart casual vibe n would be great with jeans and the grandad shirt I’m hunting for!!
Kerry says:
Love a waistcoat! Also , what brand are the jeans you are wearing in the first image please?
Black waistcoat over crisp white shirt looks perfect in terms of lengths and degree of fitted shape in photo Alyson. Hair swinging in the breeze also.
Re Gareth Southgate and his popularising of waistcoat wearing I saw brilliant play about his management of English team entitled Dear England. Brilliant choreography to represent footie on a rotating stage. This was a filmed National Theatre production staring Joseph Fiennes. Worth catching.Thank you, Mrs Tonia. I saw Dear England at the theatre – absolutely brilliant!
Maggie Vita says:
I LOVE these looks! I’ve always liked vests/waistcoats to dress up or down and you’ve done it beautifully. Wearing the waistcoat alone with nice trousers would be a great dressed-up (for Southern California) summer look during warmer months. Filing that away for future reference as I’m always desperate for something cool to wear that looks nicer than a tank top.
Thanks for the inspiration!
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Love the idea of a waistcoat, but always find it quite hard to pull off that Annie Hall/Bianca Jagger look in later years : )
and cannot seem to throw out my old fairisle knitted one from the 1970s! Hopefully, it will be loved by the next generation.