Winter style: choosing quality over quantity
Photos: Claire Pepper
We didn’t need COP 26 and a quip about Kermit the Frog to tell us that the planet is in trouble. Being more mindful about how and where we shop and what we wear is a movement that has been gaining pace for several years. Across the generations. I love seeing my friends’ daughters wearing vintage; whether that’s a Victorian-style dress and brogues or 1980s retro sportswear, they always shop around and search for second-hand cool. And as a demographic who grew up before fast-fashion, I think most of us are careful consumers, too. We appreciate vintage and we know we don’t need loads of new stuff. We have loads of stuff already.
When it comes to purchasing something new, I would much rather buy one fantastic item that I love and know I will wear for years. Often these are investment pieces, style stalked and then picked up in the sales. Like the Paul Smith boots and the MiH jeans I’m wearing in the photo below (both bought several years ago). The jeans were half-price on the Liberty sale rail (similar at a much reduced price HERE) and the snazzy boots I spotted online and then waited for the sales. I wish I could share a system with you, but I’m not incessantly clicking and obsessing over clothes (which might sound a bit unlikely coming from a fashion journalist, but it’s true), I tend to leave these things to chance. Browsing favourite shops on a quiet day (after the mad rush) and occasionally checking for that eye-catching steal online.
This beautiful herringbone tweed coat is from Jigsaw (loaned for the shoot and returned, though I have been thinking a tweed overcoat could well be my next purchase). Ace designer, Jo Sykes – who has worked on collections for Giorgio Armani, Alberta Ferretti, Cerruti, Aquascutum and Nicole Farhi – has been with the company for a couple of years, but what with Covid and everything, her influence is only just showing through. And Jigsaw is looking good again.
The Hardy jumper from Navygrey is a limited edition piece made from natural, un-dyed British wool sourced from farms in the north west of England. Knowing I’m originally from that neck of the woods, the founder very kindly sent this gorgeous gift to me – and though I live over-300 miles away now, it feels wonderful to wear something made so close to home. See also Community Clothing. The Hardy is quite pricey but designed for longevity, basically this knit is so chunky and durable it’s going to outlive me. Hardy by name, hardy by nature.
Choosing quality over quantity doesn’t mean only buying expensive things. There are places on the high street selling excellent wardrobe basics that will stand the test of time. The latest Uniqlo J+ Jil Sander collaboration launched last week, so if like me you’re into stealth-y style you might like the cashmere blend cardi, the supima cotton tucked shirt and the pea coat. For quality basics made in the UK there’s Our Patrick’s Community Clothing, and nordic minimalism comes courtesy of Arket and COS. I met a friend for a walk this morning and she was looking very chic in an old Community Clothing reefer jacket and Arket jeans.
What I do before buying is take a look at what I already own – and consider the following (I’ve answered the questions with the tweed coat in mind):
Do I really need this? Not really, I have several winter coats, two vintage faux fur numbers and one giant Duvet-style, though I don’t have a smart, warm overcoat…
Do I have something similar already? That’s a no
Do I love it? Yes, it’s a beauty
Is it the kind of thing I wear? I love tweed. I love simple, classic, androgynous design. So, yes
And will I wear it at least 30 times? You bet!
In her brilliant book make thrift mend, author, artist and teacher Katrina Rodabaugh says, ‘ There are no perfect pathways in sustainable living – just better informed choices for the individual and the collective. Remember progress, not perfection.’
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Discussion (24 Comments)
Great post! I’ve been banging on for years about buying fewer, great quality items that I love. These days I only buy something (or keep it if it comes through the post) if I can hand-on-heart say I absolutely love it, and I think it will last season after season. I think as you get older (I’m 50) that it becomes easier to know straightaway what really suits you and be confident about knowing which pieces you’ll come back to time and time again. Love the 30 wears rule though – I’m pinching that!
Gill says:
Alison, good advice, as always with regard to purchasing new clothes. I think the advice can be used for all things we are considering buying.
I love the outfit. I had a coat very similar to the one you are wearing and it lasted me years. It was my fault that it had to go as the shoulder was worn from bag straps! You look stylish in the outfit. Love it!
Anoushka says:
What a stunning look! Autumn and winter are my favourite clothing seasons as I LOVE warm, oversized layers!
My mum was a model so I grew up surrounded by models and fashion and care a lot about style. I was always brought up to buy the best you can afford in a style that won’t date quickly. When I have ignored this in the past I’ve been disappointed by jumpers every that looked terrible after one wash and so on. I’m poor myself but buy little but good quality in everything.
What a stunning look! Autumn and winter are my favourite clothing seasons as I LOVE warm, oversized layers! I was always brought up to buy the best you can afford in a style that won’t date quickly. When I have ignored this in the past I’ve been disappointed by jumpers every that looked terrible after one wash and so on. I’m poor myself but buy little but good quality in everything.
Josephine Billingham says:
Is there a confusion here between buying cheaper and buying less? Is there a danger that having bought cheaper there is a temptation to spend the saved cash on something else, and therefore end up buying more and doing the planet even more harm?
For me there is only one question to ask when trying something on. Do I have something else in which I feel better? If the answer is yes, why would I take this out of the wardrobe to wear rather than that other thing?As you say, Josephine, it’s about asking questions before you buy – and being a considerate shopper.
Julie says:
About 10 years ago I bought a man’s overcoat by Dunn & Co from an Oxfam shop. Made from a beautiful herringbone tweed, apart from lacking a belt, it looks similar to the one in your photo-shoot, Alyson. I took it to a tailor who sized it down to fit me and it’s still going strong. From time to time, during periodic wardrobe culls, I’ve wondered whether I should donate it but your post has made me glad that I didn’t. I do think there’s an art to knowing which pieces will stand the test of time. Your questions, even asked of items that I’ve temporarily ‘gone off’, will help me decide. Thank you!
bev says:
Oooh – that NavyGrey sweater is EDIBLE! Beyond my price range but I understand that it is an investment purchase. My quandary is now that I only wear what I love and buy what I really love and need – the best quality that I can afford – I have embarrassing mountains of clothing that I no longer need or wear. Too much to take into a charity shop – even multiple trips and I don’t know how to dispose/recycle/donate it responsibly. I clung on to the ‘I go out to work every day and have to look smart’ for ten years refusing to let the stuff go and I never wear it. I wish I knew years’ ago what I know now about buying infrequently but well. You can teach an old dog new tricks!
Rach with an E says:
Don’t overthink the charity donations. Just sort out a few pieces, and donate. And repeat. Perhaps start with a colour you don’t love any more or something that doesn’t fit so well. And off you go!
Vic says:
Bev, if you are a knitter, there is some pure Bluefaced Leicester yarn (aran weight) available online from West Yorkshire Spinners in natural colours, which I imagine must be the same or very similar to that used in the NavyGrey jumper. Tempted myself to make a fisherman style jumper from it!
Theresa A LaSalle says:
You look Terrific…this is a freaking great outfit.
Everytime I look at you…I smile….your great attitude comes through….very confident and charming at the same time.
Mrs Tonia says:
I like this approach. I keep the good stuff and restyle it. I have a couple of great stylish tweed coats. One I’m particularly fond of is a boucle black and white tweed with a ribbed knitted black collar and patch pockets edged in knit also. It’s by Alberta Ferreti. It looked radical like 60s vintage when I bought it half price in a Whistles sale perhaps twenty years ago. I have two checked tweed coats and they still look good. The difference now is the choice of trousers, boots or shoes to wear together.
I agree with Alyson about her criteria for buying. I’m now on a much more limited budget than hitherto so it’s now Uniqlo cashmere rather than Brora. I’ve still got my Brora hats and scarves and can patch them with the matching cashmere wool they make available in store. If one can’t buy things even on sale there are ways of repurposing older good quality clothes by mixing up colour combinations, adding clompy shoes to make a look more up to date.Carolyn McLuskie says:
This is the way I have been shopping ever since I read the wonderful book “Cheap Chic” back in the early 70’s. (They just printed a 40th anniversary edition!) I must share one of my greatest purchases. It was the early 90’s in L.A. and Boot Warehouse was having a sale. I bought a pair of Tony Lama cowboy boots for the princely sum of $90, which was A LOT of money for me at the time. I knew that I would be wearing them for the rest of my life. They are that perfect. I have had them resoled several times now, and the shoemakers always comment on the quality of the boots. I have worn them with a classic black wool crepe suit, a long brown suede skirt, bootcut jeans, and everything else in between. I always get compliments on them. I’m 67 now and I still feel fabulous every time I put them on. And now they are molded perfectly to my feet.
I love Cheap Chic – and think it was re-issued a couple of years ago, must buy a copy!
Susanna says:
Wow, I remember Cheap Chic! It shaped my approach to fashion purchases and many other things in my young adulthood (right up there with The Pauper’s Cookbook!). Glad to know it’s been reissued. I still try to calculate cost per potential wearing and go for quality over quantity – I’ve had great luck over the years with a short Jaeger double-faced jacket that goes on and on, a classic navy overcoat from Brooks Brothers (cashmere always helps!), and Boden British tweed pencil skirts in off-beat colors that I have worn for years. Great outfits in this article, Alyson!
Alysen says:
I inherited all the coats I’m ever going to need apart from sportswear, from my great aunt, who died almost 40 years ago. We are the same shape and size, and gosh, she shopped brilliantly. Nothing she bought in 1950 is wearing out or loking tatty. Her Cresta coat, in a bold black and tan check, knocks spots off most of the homages.
Frances says:
Wow you look great Alyson … a very stylish and relaxed look as always. Today I wore my 20 year old Max Mara tweed coat
( I call it my Miss Marple coat ) and yes I have considered parting with it but it always receives compliments and I think I could wear it with equally with my jeans or over an evening outfit. The quality of said coat is wonderful.I read your article today and I’ll hang onto it until it falls apart.Elizabeth says:
Those clothes and colours are perfect for you, one of the best outfits I’ve seen you put together, and you are clever with so much. I’m inspired by the Navygrey sweater but can’t afford it, however, luckily I’m a knitter! What’s more we have a small alpaca farm who produce their own wool very nearby, I’m going to buy some of his wool and make myself a cowl scarf to match my well worn cream fisherman’s rib sweater with a wide crew neck! Voila. As for the jigsaw coat! Divine, but I’ve set myself a ‘buy no new clothes for a year’ target, let’s see if I can stick to it! Do undies count!?
Thank you for promoting ethical fashion, a topic I touched on in my own blog this morning. Your 5 questions are a great shopping guide.
Sue says:
I have a grey/navy mix tweed coat which I bought in Dickins & Jones sale in 1986 and I’m still wearing it.
Karen 
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Classic beauty! I