Feel good about fashion by making the most of the clothes you own
Eleanor Turnbull. Oxfam ‘Fashion Fighting Poverty’ catwalk show © Chris Yates/Oxfam
Last week the government published a ‘Make Do and Mend’ report (my name, not theirs. And no, it has nothing to do with Brexit). The aim being to fix fashion by making retailers take more responsibility for their waste, end the throwaway era and encourage schoolchildren to repair and wear old clothes rather than buying into fast fashion. With a recommendation that ‘ lessons on designing, creating, mending and repairing clothes be included in the school curriculum’. This is good news because 60% of Brits can’t sew a button on. Meanwhile at London Fashion Week, I had a front row seat for Oxfam’s Fashion Fighting Poverty catwalk show, styled by Daisy Garnett. The runway was replete with stylish women in second-hand clothes getting behind the charity initiative. Stella Tennant, Yasmin Le Bon, Bella Freud and many more had volunteered their support for Oxfam’s campaign to save money, save lives and save the planet. Today’s throwaway culture leads to 300, 000 tonnes of clothing being incinerated or sent to landfill each year. And Britain buys more fast fashion than anywhere else in Europe.
There’s definitely a ‘making the most of the clothes you own’ mood permeating the atmosphere. Grazia magazine’s recent Big Fashion issue celebrated pre-owned clothes with a feature on ‘Hunter Gatherers’, a group of vintage fashion experts including Sophie Hersan the co-founder of re-commerce site Vestiaire Collective and Kerry Taylor the vintage fashion auctioneer. ‘Vintage isn’t second-hand clothes, it’s something with age and style,’ said Taylor, and to back this up Grazia published a fashion photoshoot featuring only vintage clothes. In the Guardian, fashion editor Jess Cartner-Morley has started mixing items from her own wardrobe with ‘this week’s most-wanted’. This is how it used to be. Growing up in the 1970s, I lived in second-hand clothes, new items were a rarity back then and there was no such thing as fast fashion. As a fashion student in Manchester in the 1980s, experimenting with outfits, adapting second-hand clothes and running up my own Bodymap-inspired tube skirts on the college overlocker was good creative fun. Style magazines like i-D and The Face regularly featured people in their own clothes and fashion editors often customised outfits or made garments for photoshoots.
Yasmin Le Bon © Chris Yates/Oxfam
Ibukun Sammy. © Chris Yates/Oxfam
Stella Tennant. Oxfam ‘Fashion Fighting Poverty’ catwalk show at London Fashion Week. © Chris Yates/Oxfam
Bella Freud. © Chris Yates/Oxfam
In the era of Instagram, fashion has become super-fast. Outfits are often bought and returned because the influencer doesn’t want to be seen in the same things twice. But it’s not just consumers (as the government report confirms), fashion brands are guilty of environmental crimes, too. Last year Burberry made the headlines for destroying unsold products and this apparently is quite a common practise amongst both luxury and high street brands. And I know this might seem a bit rich coming from a fashion journalist who regularly features product on her website – I’m not perfect, but I’m trying to figure out this new business model and would always encourage choosing considerate consumption over excess.
We all need to address fast fashion and its impact on the environment, make a commitment to sustainability and get back to a more realistic way of dressing. Personally, I like experimenting with my old clothes and working out new outfit combinations; I’m very careful about accepting gifts (and there are new rules on this) and when I do buy something new, often I’ll wait for the garment to be reduced in the sale (giving me plenty of time to think carefully about the purchase). It’s worth looking at the Love Your Clothes campaign, developed with industry organisations to help create a more circular approach. The website contains information on what to do with unwanted clothes: swapping, recycling and sending to charity ( I send mine to charity). As Oxfam announced at the opening of their fashion show, ‘Say no to fashion ending up in landfill and yes to clothes having a longer lifespan.’
Some of the catwalk items are still available to buy on the Oxfam website.
Discussion (48 Comments)
Thank you for your comment (and compliment), Jodi. And I agree with everything you say about the fashion industry, shopping our wardrobes and so on.
Karen says:
I have always loved buying interesting, one-off second hand finds since the late seventies. Mix in with new items and you have a unique to you style. I went off the rails a bit when I had more money available and lost my individuality! Now I am poor once more, imagination and working with what you have is so much more important and creative. You have renewed my enthusiasm for Boiler suits (my son used my original ones to play Ghostbusters in!) and corduroy and searching for items that have no date to them. Classics with a twist all the way. I sooooo love what you’re doing Alison (and yes, I have your books). Thank you xx
Last week my 15 year old son (very style aware) came home with a Champion Original sweatshirt purchased from a very trendy vintage shop in Glasgow’s West End for £18 – he was delighted with it and paid a 10th of what he previously thought was what he had to pay for a ‘designer/current name’ sweatshirt. I objected at Christmas to £400 for a Balenciaga sweat for a teenager and said – look around – reuse! It’s good to appreciate great style, but I was so pleased he realised the joy of sourcing elsewhere. Style over cost every time.
Caroline says:
This post reminds me of a revelation I had a couple of years ago. I was ready not an interview with a very successful American retail executive who talked about “creating demand” for their clothes. It struck me pretty hard that this fashion exec wasn’t catering to her customers, she was simply trying to maximise consumption. Interestingly, the company had v poor results shortly thereafter and she is no longer with them.
Mrs Tonia says:
Yes to all your suggestions Alyson. And to have helped in this conversation !
We seem to be at a certain moment of awareness about waste right now and mindful of doing more and recycling everything.
I’m certainly embracing these ideas in 2019. Trying to enjoy what I already have and working out how to tweak it, modify, alter and use different accessories to add a new dimension. I’ve resisted all the splendid summer weight olive/chartreuse clothing in Cos I saw during this spring heatwave. I will take stock of all the olive sweatshirts, trousers, handbags, scarves and chartreuse dresses and coat I already own first. Try them on, wash and iron them and be content with what’s already in my possession. And add no further pieces for now.
Thanks for pulling all of these endeavours together. My sewing kits at the ready to customise somethings for myself. Glad I possess those skills already.Link to Love your Clothes website a very useful one. Relieved to see I already follow many of their guidelines and advice. Following the zeitgeist without knowing I was doing so …
Anna says:
Love this conversation! One of the unspoken, often shameful aspects of aging is getting larger. I have discovered old favoured tops I that I can no longer wear (who knew about getting wider across our backs?!)…..but wait! I insert a ribbon (picture fabulous embroidered ribbon down the centre back of a black top!) or lace, or contrasting fabric (thanks, Home Ec classes!) and bingo!
Jean Mac says:
I’ve inserted a grosgrain ribbon stripe along the outside leg of some straight legged pants I have.( Full calves). I also shorten pants and sleeves and alter skirts that have asymmetrical hems. Too bad so many folks don’t sew anymore!
Vicki says:
I am so inspired by this ribbon/fabric back idea! I also had no idea about the wider back issue and am about to retrieve the pile destined for the thrift store to reimagine the backs of some of my beloved items! Thank you so much.
Alipally says:
Interesting to see the comment in the article about sewing maybe coming back into the curriculum?! We were taught needlework and home economics at my girls secondary school in the 70’s. In the 80’s I was then able to make & alter clothes for my kids and feed them cheap nutrious meals made from scratch, when we were living well below the breadline for quite a few years. There’s a whole generation of adults who’ve missed out on these basic skills that everyone needs and would benefit from!
I remember whipping up 4 harem dresses in different colours for me and my friends to wear to a youth club disco. We (thought) we looked hot!
Thank you for this encouragement Alyson .
I try and buy mostly pre worn or well made pieces that will become staples – ‘buy better buy less’ essentially .
But occasionally I’ll slip up in Zara or another faster fashion shop. I like the way you say that’s okay , none of us are perfect . As long as we are aware and carry on trying .. Warm wishes , DeborahDeborah I too buy Zara clothing occasionally to modernise my look and add fashion touch to basics I already own. Linen t-shirts in nice colours, cotton knitwear, cotton dresses, cotton summer tops. No problem with that because I keep them to wear and have sewing skills so I can fix and change them. But I do see over time more synthetic fabrics and cheaper fabrics being used to keep costs low. Yes this is fast fashion but I’m not chucking it out.
Wendy in York says:
I sometimes cut through the local Primark here ( only to save a longer walk round ) & all that ‘ stuff ‘ makes me feel very uneasy . Any big store piled high with clothes has a similar effect now & I wonder where it all ends up . Oxfam has struggled with a few members of their organization & received criticism for overcharging but I think it is totally unfair & we must support them . Anything that I’m certain I’ve finished with goes to them . Good expensive items need not be sold for peanuts & people forget the point of the whole exercise . There are lots of other charity shops for those who are looking for bargain basement prices . So I’m pleased to see this post . Must confess I can & do sew buttons on but hate doing it for some reason .
Isobel says:
I agree with everything you’ve said, Wendy, from walking through acres of new stuff to pricing quality used items, and finding replacing buttons a chore!!
Sewing hems, mending and replacing buttons is a drag. But put music on while you do it or watch news or other programme on telly which only requires half one’s attention. Same for ironing. Don’t like doing it but like the look of uncrumpled outfits.
Handy hints on the Love your Clothing website including elaborate button sewing info.
Charitygirl says:
Hya Wendy in York
I’m from York and I know what you mean about Primark.
I have inadvertently brought Primark stuff without realising it from Charity Shops, not sure if that is ok.
They do get recycled again. I’m very much one in, one out or one in two out. (like you Alyson
I Marie Kono’d my clothes a few weeks ago and ended up having 8 bags for the PDSA charity (pets for Vets). I was so happy to see all my clothes from Charity shops, back in the Charity shop and going for good prices too.
Jane says:
I would just like to add an anecdote about Vestiaire Collective. Two years ago I sold a few items through them. One item was a Mui Mui handbag. It was sent to them in impeccable condition, the buyer had seen my photographs etc. However after two weeks had passed and I had heard nothing I contacted them. They could not find the handbag at first and then said it was scratched and the buyer had refused it. The people at Vestiare through carelessness had themselves scratched it. I never used them again to sell things and i principle would never buy from them.
I get many emails from them and had considered send several of my designer handbags I use rarely to them. So I’m most interested to read your comments about a negative experience Keeping them but should use more. My shortcoming is to “save for best” quality clothing I already own rather than use it and enjoy doing so. It might even spark some joy.
Otherwise this spring will have a new round of donations once I’ve tried everything on.
Sam S says:
Thanks for this Alyson. I was delighted to see that Toast was encouraging customers to darn old sweaters and that an expert in darning was visiting stores to inspire customers to learn to do this.
Sara says:
As someone who used to make most of my own clothes and often for friends too (including a wedding dress) I think we have lost a great deal. I still adapt some clothes I buy as I often think I can get a better style. Unfortunately, the fabric shops are just not there and buying fabric online is of limited usefulness as holding, draping and generally assessing a fabric’s qualities is just not possible. Again, smart, tailored clothes are much easier to make than the relaxed, casual ones many of us, including me, now wear. Retiring has changed my wardrobe and I would struggle to make a good pair of jeans!
Realistically, retirement does mean that fewer clothes are necessary, so I hope I’m doing my bit that way. I would love to utilise my dressmaking and tailoring skills again, especially that, theoretically, I have more time now, but I do not enjoy altering things half as much as making from scratch, so putting a couple of existing garments together would be more of a chore than I’d want( trying to think of ways to reuse and customise what already exists). The concept of reducing consumption is great but without undue cynicism, can we really see the international fashion industry relinquishing its grip? We are still trying to reshape the way that public female figures in all walks of life are viewed through the prism of their appearance, a long overdue change in my opinion.Thanks for your comment, Sara. And I agree, it’s tricky. Fashion brands are hardly encouraging consumers to buy less/shop sustainably but hopefully a government initiative and increased awareness of the environmental impact will help. Just look at the way we view plastics differently thanks to Saint David Attenborough….
Sheree says:
I also made a lot of clothes when I was younger, then had a long gap of not sewing. About 8 years ago, I took up the hobby again and have been amazed at the fabulous choice out there for fabric, though I am lucky to be able to travel quite easily into London.
Going through the process of actually making a garment from scratch really opens your eyes to the craziness of the fast fashion industry that has become “normal” for many.
Lets all buy less and learn to care for and cherish what we do have.
Claire B says:
I’ve always enjoyed mixing vintage and upcycled furniture with a few well chosen new buys in my home, so it makes perfect sense to apply the same rules to my wardrobe. My daughter bought me a lovely vintage Fenn Wright Manson black velvet jacket with diamante button for Christmas and I recently found two as-new Jigsaw tops (one current season!) in local charity shops. I’ll always enjoy buying a few new items (especially in the sales), but re-using and cutting down makes more and more sense – as this very unseasonal warm spell we’re having should remind us!
SFord says:
Renovating my house early 2018 meant that I was renting a holiday let for 6 weeks with one medium suitcase to contain all clothes and shoes I needed (work and leisure), everything else was packed away in boxes. I thought carefully about what I needed to take, what occasions I needed the clothes for an also taking into account different weather conditions and temperatures. It surprised me how little I could live with for that period of time and made me dress creatively with clothes spanning the work/leisure line, mixing and matching as I went along, coming up with combinations that I maybe wouldn’t have thought of before.
I love scouring charity shops and recently found a 100% cashmere Jigsaw jumper for £8. There was no stretching or bobbling. I think that the previous owner might have shrunk it a bit, but it fits fine. The rush of finding a bargain is great. I also take items to a dressmaker to undertake any complicated alterations, anything more simple, I can do myself on my trusty cheap sewing machine!
I also think carefully about new purchases and almost always wait for sales. Being on a budget, I can no longer justify spending what I consider a large amount of money on an item.
Joyce Morris says:
All very interesting stuff above. I keep intending to get the sewing machine out and attempt to make myself some clothes, but where do we go now for fabric? Gone are the days it seems, unless you are in London, when you can ‘stroke’ beautiful fabrics in the flesh, as it were, before purchasing.
I agree about the lack of places to buy both fabric and notions like thread, buttons, ribbons. So many of these businesses have closed.
From storage I uncovered a treasure trove of Liberty fabrics which had been in a trunk in my former attic. A bit musty but have washed and aired the lawns and lightweight challis wools. It’s exciting and will get me designing and making clothes again. I used to make clothes but then used to have a very talented dressmaker make them up to my design specifications. So I ended up with a perfect fit and unique creation. Am going to have another shot at dressmaking this spring v
What a great conversation! Thank you for initiating it Alyson. I look forward to taking the time to follow some of the links you provided. This is such an important topic.
Goddessinthedetails says:
The daily emails I get from fashion sites telling me ‘it’s time to treat myself’ or that I need ‘to invest’ in something are actually making me jaded. Like you, I prefer to find new combinations of clothes I own. I also try to keep to a maxim of only buying items under £300 (except for exceptional items and coats), items made of a natural fibre or mostly natural fibre, and waiting for sales or Vestiaire Collective(!) if something is above the threshold. Also everything has to fit my existing capsule wardrobe, and fit Alexandra Schulman’s advice: ‘Only buy something you really need or something you really love.’ I think it’s just being conscious of your buying habits, really.
Jeanne says:
Hi Alyson
I am a new member to your site, having joined 2/3 weeks ago. I am so delighted to hear about budget shopping for clothes! I wear high street clothes and tend to buy most of my clothes in the sales. Phase 8/Monsoon/M&S etc. I have taken on board your suggestions and, indeed, picked up a petite double breasted navy, pure new wool blazer from Air Ambulance charity shop today . It looks brand new as the pockets are still tacked in place with stitches! Will wear it with straight leg jeans (from Monsoon sale and white linen shirt or T shirt) I still love to look fashionable , but chic, even though I am 74 ….an ex Biba fashion girl of the 60’s !!! Have also been through my wardrobe and sorted out smart jackets I haven’t worn in ages. Also picked up a gorgeous double breasted jacket in cream/brown check from Phase 8, at a greatly reduced price in the sale – 75% off!! Will team with rusty brown straight leg trousers I have discovered in my wardrobe recently!!Thank you so much for all the tips and suggestions . I really look forward to your emails. Kind regards.
PS….my husband says is there a similar site for men as he too loves clothes as much as I do!!!Step says:
I’ve just bought a new sewing machine, to replace my grandmother’s 1966 Singer , to restart dressmaking and altering clothes. I used to love sewing as a 70’s teenager. The Cloth House in Berwich St ,Soho has a wonderful array of material as does John Lewis. My friend and I are going to the Knitting and Stitching Show tomorrow at Olympia for inspiration and hopefully some sewing patterns. Its wonderful that sewing is popular again and that it’s being encouraged.
My top places to go for fabric in London are Simply Fabrics in Brixton, Walthamstow Market ( especially TMOS stall -famous in sewing blogging circles) and around Goldhawk Road station are masses of fabric shops. Another comment from Mary mentions natural fibres, Merchant and Mills in Rye has a wonderful selection.
Mary says:
This is such a stimulating post with wonderful comments, Alyson. I am so happy to see influencers like you championing considerate/considered consumption. This winter I have felt so content wearing clothes resurrected from the 1980s and 1990s — beautiful fabrics and construction that look current (to me, at least) and interesting. I still remember the gorgeous clothes I found at a consignment store when I started a career in the 1970s. How I miss good fabric stores, with natural fibers … although I do have quite a stash to work through. “She who dies with the most fabric wins”? Anyway, I think your and your readers’ ideas are more and more part of the international conversation, because this thoughtless overconsumption is a problem with many global ramifications.
P.S. I have both your books and refer to them often. Thank you!
Love this conversation…I find that fabric is the key to trawling charity shops for great finds, touch it, check it’s not dry clean only, and then see what options it has….in need of a little tweak or maybe a complete change…..a scatter cushion! It’s good for the soul and for personal individualism – let’s keep this up.
Helen Ledder says:
While we are talking about sewing. Esme Young on the Great British Sewing Bee gets my vote for most stylish presenter, there is always a fabulous statement piece of jewellery too. Such a fabulous programme!
Beverley in Canada (MsGidgetty) says:
This is such an important topic, for so many reasons. I was a fashion student back in the ‘70’s, and still sew occasionally. (I knit constantly. ) The lack of quality – in both cut, and cloth – means those cheap clothes are no bargain. There seems to be a growing thirst and appreciation for these old skills. Surely knowing how to sew on a button could help to reduce anxiety. Smile.
As I remind myself, true style can’t be purchased head to toe, then carted home in a shopping bag.
Love the article, and all the comments!
Maisie says:
I Iove this post ! When I was growing up in the 50’s my mum would sometimes take me to second-hand shops for clothes, money was tight. I hated those shops, the smell, I wanted only new clothes , even then I was fashion conscious ! A few years on I’d started sharing mum’s passion for jumble sales ( do they still exist in the UK ? ). Further on I’d started making my own clothes, some more successful than others,and trawling the charity shops. Having learnt basic dressmaking skills at school has stood me in good stead, although in recent years I’ve not bothered with sewing much.They should definitely bring back these classes in schools. I have recently taken up knitting again and love mending things. If we had charity shops here I would definitely be making them my first port of call if I needed a fashion fix. As it is I make sure I buy good quality and wear it forever.
Yes, to all of this. What a great, meaty post. This Christmas I bought a sewing machine and I’m sewing again, and it’s so much fun. I’ve also started repairing things using the Japanese boro method inspired by Katrina Rodabaugh and her book, “Mending Matters.” I was surprised to learn that you, in the UK, buy so much fast fashion. I always think you are ahead of the U.S. in so many things. And Le Bon and Tennant, two of my favorites!
Hi Alyson,
I’m a little late to the party with my comment on this post. It sung to me! Our family emigrated from Scotland to the USA in the 70’s and we got all our clothes from a huge thrift shop on the main drag here in Denver, Colorado – South Broadway. It still exists and I visit it regularly. As kids we would leave with bags of fab clothes. We thought we were the bees knees. That experience of buying second hand continued through to adulthood – mixing vintage with the new. In the last few years I’ve started selling vintage items online (Phosphene Particles on Etsy), at markets, and with Kerry Taylor Auctions who you mention in your post. I had a wonderful experience with them. I’m approaching them now for their Passion for Fashion sale in June 2019. You hit a spot with me on this post. Thank you. Loved it.Totally on time! This mood has been creeping up on us for some time, and it’s about time! I grew up in the era when luxury goods were meant to last a lifetime (and more), not to proclaim status…
This is a hopeful sign in really confusing times. I’ve been mending, culling and curtailing spending on old or new; Enough is enough!
Rebecca 
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Considerate consumption is a good term. A mixture of some new things, vintage and shopping our own wardrobes seems to be sensible for those of us who enjoy ‘style’. I think it’s the younger generation who really need this message though. Like you Alyson, I am of the generation that was used to second hand clothes and adapting cast offs.
Mass consumption really needs to be halted, not just for the planet, but for the humans being damaged in the manufacturing process.
I am happy to wait and save up for things, but that’s because I’m older and wiser. Really the whole industry should be taken on.
You always give a very responsible message and I wish younger fashion writers would follow suit.