Is the fashion industry ageist?
Mouchette Bell for Whistles
When broadcaster Libby Purves accused the BBC of ‘lookism’ towards older women (even on the radio) and claimed that while the organisation tolerated older male broadcasters, ‘ the middle-aged female must struggle to look youthful,’ my heart sank. The pressure women face to defy ageing is a subject I’ve spoken about many times in the past. While our male contemporaries are viewed as distinguished and wise, women are subject to the double whammy of ageism and sexism. With one or two exceptions, female broadcasters and more generally women on TV and in the movies, are allowed to grow old as long as they look a certain way. Tweaked to take the years off, old but not too old. And when we’re ‘grey and stout’ as Purves puts it, rather than being valued for our experience and wisdom, we’re simply replaced by a younger model.
In a recent report entitled Retiring Ageism, SunLife (a financial services company for the over-50s) claimed that ‘ageism is everywhere’ and stated that ‘78% of Brits over-50 said they haven’t seen an accurate representation of their age bracket from companies or celebrities in the past year.’ And ‘56% feel most misrepresented by the fashion industry.’ Yikes.
Georgina Grenville for Mango
It’s no secret that fashion labels tend to prioritise youthful aspiration over a realistic depiction of what their customer actually looks like. Up until quite recently, older women were pretty much absent from advertising despite the 50-plus market being responsible for 51% of the UK’s total wealth and the largest growth area for fashion expenditure. Between 2011 and 2018, there was a £2.9 bn (21%) growth in spending on clothes and shoes by the over-50s; set to increase by £11bn from 2019- 2040 according to the International Longevity Centre. Say hello to the Power of the Silver Spend, the Grey and Stout Pound, or whatever you want to call it. Brands who are honest with themselves about who their target customer actually is, that use relevant and realistic models – and provide us with good quality basics – are going to reap the rewards.
Penelope Tree on the catwalk. Photo: Vogue
And yet, there have been incremental changes. When I first started That’s Not My Age, 12 years ago, I was always banging on about the lack of older models, my Grey-dar fine-tuned to pick up a glimpse of grey hair or a rare sighting of laughter lines. But whereas a decade ago, the older model was restricted to a life insurance gig or a Dove advert, there has been a shift in attitudes and an increase in visibility. Social media has played a huge part in making the style business a more democratic place. My Instagram feed features an array of wonderful over-50 influencers, displaying experience, character and wardrobes full of amazing outfits collected over the years. The sheer volume of older women doing their own thing online has forced the fashion industry to update its narrow beauty ideals. Today, most retail websites feature at least one older model; this year I’ve noticed: Mouchette Bell (63) for Whistles (top photo) and John Lewis & Partners, Caroline Issa (43) modelling for Next LabelMix and Boden, Georgina Grenville (45) for Mango and Ba&sh, and Jocelyne Beaudoin (61) for Everlane and Anthropologie, and check out the latest TV campaign from Hotter (yes, really). Over at Milan Fashion Week, iconic 1960s model Penelope Tree (70) was the star of the Fendi catwalk show (above).
Rebi Merilion and Fleur Brady, founders of the model agency Mrs Robinson, agree that businesses seem to have finally recognised the commercial value of using older models. Pointing to a growing number of bookings as proof, ‘Since we opened in 2013, we have noticed an upward trend,’ Fleur tells me. ‘Previously, retailers tended to use a token older model but they are now using more diverse and inclusive age ranges. Clients are listening to their customers who want to see aspirational and relatable models, and they have most definitely embraced diversity in the last year on not just age but also gender and ethnicity. The fashion industry is a fantastic platform for positive change and it is great to see it moving towards a more inclusive future.’
Parisian label CristaSeya
In 2017, I interviewed Mouchette Bell on her return to modelling. Three years later and in-demand, she is delighted by the increased visibility of older women. ‘It feels great to be part of creating positive images for all to see. I have found that having an older model in the mix gives images a more interesting narrative,’ Mouchette says, ‘Also, fashion is a business and the 50+ group has real spending power. It’s a winning combination.’ Beyond the economic benefits, the 62-year-old believes the success of older models is also part of a broader social change, ‘Negativity about race, age and gender is something we have to remove so that our society can get better,’ she continues. ‘With this Pandemic we have a huge responsibility and opportunity to send out positive real imagery or our lives will get very dense. Diversity is so important and we need to go further. It took me a while to love and accept my older self, but I’ve never stopped loving style and fashion and want to encourage everyone.’
Fashion should include everyone. Women of all ages, sizes, ethnicities, women with disabilities, non-binary women. The landscape has changed but diversity isn’t a fad or a hashtag. One older woman on a website (or a catwalk) is not enough.
Information on the Retiring Ageism report came via Forbes ‘Over-50s cry foul over society’s creeping ageism’ feature. There’s a great feature by Afua Hirsch on ‘lookism’ HERE and on ageism in Hollywood by Clair Woodward HERE.
Discussion (34 Comments)
Betty says:
Not disagreeing with the notion that broadcasters suffer from “Lookism” and certainly not disagreeing with the fact that the fashion industry is ageist, but there are plenty of female broadcasters and reporters on the telly who are over 50. Emily Maitlis, Victoria Derbyshire, Lyse Ducet, Orla Guerin, Moira Stuart, Fiona Bruce … and that’s just on the BBC.
Yes of course, you’re right – that was a quick-fire response, I obviously hadn’t thought it through properly. There’s Lindsey Hilsum, too.
And Mary Beard!
Jayne Johnson says:
I agree with this well-written article wholeheartedly, but there is another obstacle to overcome, and that is the attitude held by many women that as a woman ages, she becomes quieter, and more beige in her dress. I came smack up against this recently with a friend just one year older than me. I was talking about a similar article, and her response was ‘that’s nonsense, these days there’s very little ageism’. And her response to my suggestion of an example of ageism, that some older women are reluctant to wear what they want for fear of being ridiculed, ‘well, you need dress tastefully as you age, you don’t want to look like a clown’. As she felt she conformed to the perceived notion of a nice, tastefully dressed older woman, she wasn’t experiencing any ageism or ridicule, so therefore there is very little ageism left.
Christine March says:
Quick Comment: Mrs Robinson is a brilliant name for an agency featuring mature models. Fun Fact: Anne Bancroft, who portrayed the titular Mrs R – the older woman – in The Graduate, was 36 when the film was made. PS Excellent post.
Catbird Farm says:
Yes to all this. Delighted to see images of models with minimal makeup! They look naturally fabulous rather than hidden behind a centimeter-thick layer of slap. And while I don’t know what any of them look like IRL, if their photos have been retouched, it’s been done with a thankfully light hand. Gratifying to see a more realistic representation of what we women really look like! And, if any companies are listening, hey ho – I’m far more likely to buy from a brand that has shown their clothing on someone I can relate to, or might (realistically) aspire to look like, rather than a 14-year old child.
Great article and a subject that needs pushing. It is a shame that a lot of women feel they have to become beige as they age. I think it’s not helped by some children thinking and even telling their parents that they should act their age. But some youngsters actively encourage their older family members to live and be as they wish. I’ve become that old woman who “will wear mauve” ( from the wonderful poem). But I don’t have anyone to tell me what to do . And so agree with the “distinguished” men. It’s so unfair because some men get more gorgeous naturally!
Elspeth says:
It will be interesting to see what happens in the fallout from Covid with companies scrambling for every pound or dollar. Clothing labels, among others, may place more value on the grey pound.
June says:
Yes, I agree, older women in the media do seem to be sparse – with a few notable exceptions here and there – particularly in news broadcasting. But where the content is less ‘serious’ then it is quite a different story. Even in modelling we tend to laud the ‘return’ of models from yesteryear – vis Penelope Tree, Lauren Hutton et al – rather than encourage ‘new’ old models to come forward. And when they do – and this is noticeable if you take a look at agency websites – they mostly have long and very lustrous looking grey hair, or are ‘quirky’ in some way. They still don’t look like me.
I love the clothes in this blog – but another pet peeve – who goes outside in trousers that are clearly at least two inches too long and would be a dragging filthy mess in five minutes? Please. I want to be inspired – not exasperated!!!SarahC says:
I absolutely agree. While it’s good to see older models being featured, they’re still models. They don’t represent women in general. I once saw Naomi Campbell on a bus (before she became super famous). These people have tiny but elongated frames – I’d like to see ‘models’ who are more representative of the reality of being an older woman.
Claudia says:
Full agree with that. Even if you DO see older model, they are as tall and skinny at the younger ones. None of them looks like me – small and round.. mind you, I’m not overweight, it’s just mi build.
Thanks for the article, more of that is needed
Paula Watts says:
Yes and yes again! I have stopped dying my hair and now have a beautiful silver fringe which I genuinely like! Just waiting for the rest to grow out. I was a little unsure to begin with but do feel much more comfortable with the idea of displaying my natural colour. If it is acceptable for men, then why not us? Also I am thankful that I am still alive and healthy as I have recently passed the age at which my mother died, which has been something of a psychological milestone for me. If I am invisible to the younger generation then so be it!! Thanks for highlighting the topic.
Yes and yes again! I have stopped dying my hair and now have a beautiful silver fringe which I genuinely like! Just waiting for the rest to grow out. I was a little unsure to begin with but do feel much more comfortable with the idea of displaying my natural colour. If it is acceptable for men, then why not us? Also I am thankful that I am still alive and healthy as I have recently passed the age at which my mother died, which has been something of a psychological milestone for me. If I am invisible to the younger generation then so be it!! Thanks for highlighting the topic.
Christine says:
Sorry to put a spanner in the works, but surely “older” these days means over 60? To me, Penelope Tree is the only older model in your photos. I’m of a similar age and remember her from the 60s, wearing fabulous clothes.
Carolyn says:
Wait till the broadcasters get near 60, they will be channelled into radio or only seen on occasional programmes.
Women over 55 are the backbone of this country as mothers, grandmothers, decision makers in the home and family as well as bosses and employees and major consumers Basically they are influencers!!
Our numbers are not reflected presenting programmes regularly.SLF says:
Thank you for showing an older Asian woman as I have never seen that in fashion! It is inspiring to see a face that reflects who I look like. Well, not exactly, but a face of my own ethnicity anyway. It surprised me that I found delight in seeing a familiar face.
Cathérine says:
Society in general is ageist, so why wouldn’t fashion be ? Many companies use “older” models just because they know that 50+ women have the most money to spend. Sadly enough they are just thinking of profit and not of an inclusive society where everybody is respected.
Deborah Chowney says:
Totally agree and I work in employment and training, now there’s a sector that really has an issue with age! Do not get me started on terminology such as ‘Silver Surfers’, which just compounds the issue!
S Wass says:
I agree about recruitment, having felt brilliant at getting a degree with a First at my ‘middle age’ and moving into a prestigious postgraduate course, I have been knocked back so many times after what I felt were good interviews…and why…well the culture ‘fit’ is just well… blinkered in the fashion industry sadly. My confidence has certainly taken a hit.
Loved seeing these women wearing clothes that I would want to wear. I never know if I am dressing too young for my age (79). I am a young at heart woman who walks my dog everyday & likes wearing clothes that I feel good in.
Thanks for this article & also recognizing some of these gals.I love to see women of my age (62) in fashion shoots. However for the most part they are still reinforcing the old fashion stereotypes of 6ft tall, size 10. Where are the realistic images of women for whom the waist line has drastically increased! I struggle every day with the extra pounds around my tum and the fact that my jeans just don’t look the same on me. I would really love to see clothes modelled on women who look like me. It’s not just about grey hair, it’s body image, size and shape that needs to be addressed.
exceptionally timely post, thanks so much. I was a late bloomer in my career direction and I remember an advertising ex telling me at 33 that It would be slim to impossible to break into advertising space sales at my age! That was in 1980. I ended up being hired by the No.1 teen magazine in the US. Now, when I look back on this time, every top ex on the magazine advertising side, was an old man, so maybe to them I didn’t look so old! At 40, I went to work for a top woman’s magazine, which was run, on both sides, by women, of all ages. I was lucky both times. But I found calling on both the client-side and advertising that my time would be limited in this field.
By 47 the industry was making a beeline for a younger generation. I left the industry. For the next 11 years, I ran my own decorative accessory business – which had now evolved into an industry run and owned predomitantly by women.
My real lucky break came at 58 when I was brought on board by a privately owned linen + accessory company to take the company to the next level. When I retired at 70. I asked the owner why he hired me at 58? His answer – he figured he would not have to worry about showing me the ropes and that I was old enough to work on my own! He was a unique individual and I was blessed to find him.
I did think at 58 – who’s going to hire me? My biggest challenge today is to overcome the ageism of being 73 and retired. xoxkThank you for creating a platform for this issue! I’m in my mid-50s and adore good style, yet I stopped subscribing to fashion magazines long ago because they have nothing to offer. What looks good on a 20-something, waifish model simply doesn’t look good on me, and it doesn’t represent who I am. Designers should populate their runways with women who represent their true market. Give me style with a brain, comfort, quality, utility, longevity and even history. I short, a style that reflects me – and on a model that reflects me. Or don’t. I don’t care. I’m perfectly happy taking my style cues from thatsnotmyage.com and creating ensembles from my own wardrobe of marvelously designed classics, many of which are older than today’s top models.
Susan Maxwell says:
I have been very interested to read the article and the resulting comments. Here in Australia, in the print media advertisements the same ‘models’ seem to be used frequently. Younger looking women (and men) with grey hair to appeal to the older demographic. Occasionally genuinely older models are used in fashion ads and, as one comment pointed out, they are usually retired models who have returned. On TV we have many distinguished older men but very few older women except on the ABC . I was amused by the comment from one of your writers whose friend said that older women should dress tastefully so as not to look like a clown… it is far more fun to see the ‘clowns’ out and about.
judy says:
Ageism? certainly . Altho I do think things [like your blog] are making life easier BUT how about sizes? It seems to me that there is no or little consideration for women who aren’t size 10 and smaller. Seems all fashion is made for the same height and width.
Kim Hunt says:
when I worked on the sunday telegraph magazine almost 20 years ago, I took the opportunity to explore other ways of informing the public about style.
So, supported by my wonderful Editor and Art Director, I shot older women, older men, and models of various colours and sizes.
Not really something the Telegraph was known for, and after a while a note was sent from ‘Upstairs’ (ie the Big Editor) reminding me that fashion should be on young women with make-up and high heels. We ignored it.Angela Fussell says:
I agree with Carolyn’s comments (6th October) in that women over 55 generally make considerable contributions to both their domestic lives and work places. They are, in effect , the true ‘influencers’ in wider society. At age 63, I bear witness that it’s even tougher today to be acknowledged and appreciated amidst the juggernaut of social media dominated by the younger section of society. I’m still able to appreciate the beauty of a well cut coat so, thank you Alyson for TNMA and it’s consistently interesting and useful content.
Bev says:
I watched the ‘Hotter’ advert. and it really ‘blew me away’. I am so PROUD of them (not patronising) for producing this. I have always seen Hotter as the last chance saloon but this was AMAZING!!!!!
Rach with an E 
peggy 
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Thank you for this useful addition to the ageism discussion. Yes, things are moving, slowly. It’s great that some companies are using older models. TV infuriates me though – why is it OK to have grey or balding, wrinkly older guys fronting various shows for (presumably) huge amounts, when the female presenter trope is virtually always young looking, unlined, slim, definitely not grey-haired? Sport programmes are the worst. Thank you Alyson for continuing to work to make “the style business a more democratic place”.