Expert tips on how to buy and wear vintage
Curator Teresa Colonett photograph by Claire Pepper
Now we’re all thinking about sustainability and saving the planet, wearing vintage is cool again. ‘There used to be a misconception that vintage clothing was quirky, niche and nostalgic – the fashion equivalent of retro bunting and coronation chicken,’ says Chiara Menage of Menage Modern Vintage, ‘But that’s changing. There are so many benefits and pleasures to buying vintage.’
With the increasing concern about the fashion industry’s impact on the environment, shopping second-hand is an ideal way to find something new-to-you without adding to the problem. A thredUP report last year predicted that within a decade secondhand could overtake fast fashion, and, as the market grows, particularly online, choice and availability are better than ever. ‘There’s the thrill of finding something unexpected and unique,’ continues Chiara,’ the ability to buy top quality pieces – designer fashion becomes affordable just as high-end brands are being priced out of reach. There’s the quality of fabric, detail and workmanship in vintage clothes, which makes them feel better and hang better than anything you can buy new for a comparable price. They are on the whole more durable, and – most importantly – 100% sustainable. Have a look in your wardrobe to see what you can resurrect and what you can pass on. There’s a special pleasure in getting creative with your clothes.’
Vintage 1960s leopard print coat and vintage cords. Photo: Claire Pepper
Of course, there are no rules on how to ‘do’ vintage, and many women show singular style when wearing second-hand. Virginia Bates former boutique owner, actress and co-author of the style book Jazz Age Fashion: Dressed to Kill, looks stunning in an embellished, ankle-length frock and show-stopping opera coat (Virginia is on Instagram HERE). New Yorker Iris Apfel wears her fashion history on her sleeve, the nonagenarian’s flamboyant, more-is-more approach practically tells her life story. While Caryn Franklin, professor, journalist, campaigner and activist always looks ace in up-cycled vintage and her signature, silk head scarves.
Everyone can wear second-hand stuff (just as long as it doesn’t smell.) Here are three tips on how to look modern in vintage:
Match and mismatch patterns and textures
Choose items that co-ordinate with the clothes you already own. And this doesn’t have to mean matchy-matchy, as curator Teresa Colonett shows (top photo), picking out similar colours is a surefire way to look brilliant when mismatching prints. The wavy bands in her vintage Lanvin blouse tally beautifully with the floral printed Finery trousers, and red ankle boots. My take is more pared-down than clashing pattern, though I’m not averse to a vintage faux fur coat. The Beast is a 1960s leopard print coat I’ve had for more than a decade, add a same-but-different Rockins silk scarf, a plush velvet shirt and second-hand corduroy trousers for a tantalising blend of textures.
Know Your Style
Think about your aesthetic and whether or not the item sitting in your basket in keeping with it. Knowing Your Style saves time, faffage and money in the long run. I’ll always choose classic clean lines over ruffles, fuss and frou-frou; much better for mixing and matching with the other gentlewomanly staples in my wardrobe. Having a clear vision of what suits and what you feel comfortable in takes some of the risk out of shopping online.
Wear second-hand clothes and sneakers
Comfort is important, high heels are a thing of the past and I wear trainers with everything, unless I’m going somewhere special,’ states Chiara, and she’s not wrong. Sportswear has gone mainstream, more women now buy trainers than heels. Juxtapose old-school sneakers, such as Adidas Stan Smiths, with a trouser suit; wear hi-tops with a maxi dress (or culottes and a blazer) to get your kicks and score some serious style points.
Chiara in a vintage Hérmes shirt
In order to find the best vintage pieces you need to do your research, plan ahead and be prepared to rummage. ‘Pay attention to the fabric, and opt for high quality natural cashmeres (look out for moth holes), wool, cotton and linen over anything nylon or plastic-not-fantastic,’ says Chiara. Also be aware that sizing has changed over the years, so check that measurements are similar to existing clothes. And pay attention to detail, ‘I always check the condition of the fabric and look out for wear and tear,’ advises Chiara, ‘When scanning a clothes rail, I use my fingertips as much as my eyes. Go for the feel of a fabric; texture is as important as pattern or colour. And I avoid anything with words, obvious branding or logos, fast fashion, synthetic fabrics and overstated pieces.’
Here are six of the best places to shop vintage (and Chiara’s website makes seven):
Bigger players include online marketplace Vestiaire Collective and fashion website FarFetch has a pre-owned section, while Etsy is a great source of second-hand (if you’re prepared to rummage!)
William Vintage sells one of a kind haute couture pieces with a haute couture price tag (nearly three thousand pounds for an Yves Saint Laurent’s 1980s Le Smoking crepe tuxedo suit)
While Retold Vintage ‘curates vintage pieces for fashion conscious women’.
And Manifesto Woman replicates a modern, everyday wardrobe with a ‘mash-up of designer, boutique label, a bit of vintage and high street.’
If you’re in London, Frock Me Vintage Fairs are almost monthly, the next one is this weekend on Sunday 8 March at Kensington Town Hall.
Where do you shop for vintage?
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Discussion (30 Comments)
In Amsterdam we vintage lovers shop at numerous venues…the cheapest ( 2 euro’s) the waterloosquare market, on every day. There’s a couple of vendors who just pile great heaps of clothes on old carpet and…take it away…or rather pull it away.
A store right behind it : Marble Vintage – https://www.facebook.com/Marbles-vintage-design-amsterdam-184714401559202/- sells the same stuff for a lot more.
Designer vintage: https://www.designer-vintage.com/
https://etoile-luxuryvintage.com/
Don’t forget some gorgeous jewelry pieces to lighten up ANYTHING you wear: https://www.avacadiz.nl/Ros john says:
As a graduate of jumble sales in my childhood and teenage years, I have always worn ‘preloved’ clothes. Clothes were otherwise too expensive, for myself and my children, and I liked the individuality. Being handy with a needle helps too, and if you stick to natural fibres, the quality can be outstanding.
Deeply engrained, I still shop this way, now in my mid 70s and buy from charity shops, in particular the inspirational Mary’s Living and Giving shops, created by Mary Portas. Her farsighted idea of offering better quality and a curated selection of donated clothes has been important in raising the game of this sector, and now chimes perfectly with current thinking. Buying vintage online I find difficult because of the difference in sizing and fit.Andrea says:
Referring to ‘second-hand’ clothing as ‘vintage’ always make me smile – growing up in a less then affluent family in the 60’ and 70’ (I am 55) pretty much all our clothing came from jumble Sales, in fact my granny made blankets for our beds by cutting up cast off knitwear – we did not have fleece then – crocheting round them and sewing them together, I still have several of them. We also unravelled knitted items and make something new and she made bags and bucket hats out of old curtains. She would have been the queen of Esty
I went on to study fashion and jumble sales were a great source of buttons, lace and other items for our projects, most of us made our own clothes often from re purposed items…
I still do a regular run round the charity shops in my town – I have a stunning Max Mara coat and several other ‘designer’ pieces to show for it. We should not forget that many of us treat second hand as a fun project but other see it as the only option.
Calling it ‘Vintage’ increases the price, many charity shops now have a ‘vintage/designer’ rack. Even if it is Dior… it is still second hand and the price should reflect that
Snap! I grew up wearing second-hand clothes and jumble sale finds and then went on to study fashion. And I’m enjoying the return to the DIY culture of our student days (though I didn’t enjoy feeling like Second-Hand Rose at school). Vintage has become an overused term and some items/sites are incredibly expensive – you’re never going to find a bargain at William Vintage, but it is couture, and there are more reasonably priced places (like Retold and Manifesto Woman) and local charity shops, markets and fairs. I agree with Chiara about the quality and workmanship that can be found in good vintage clothing and of course circularity is important too.
maudie says:
ditto – many a Saturday afternoon was spent with my mum queuing for the jumble sales to start – first in to get the best of the rummage. I desperately miss the excitement of a jumble sale – I have charity shopped for the last 35 years long before it was ‘trendy’ and I find it impossible to walk past one. (Fortunately they no longer pong of incontinence and mothballs circa the 60’s). I have some wonderful clothes – some posh labels and some very ordinary plus some gorgeous ‘vintage pieces’ – that phrase still makes me grin! Not to mention scarves and costume jewellery. Cast off knitwear as blankets sounds very upmarket – we just put winter coats on top of the threadbare eiderdown (now that’s a word) – I loved it if aunties were staying and I got a lovely whiff of their perfumed collars as I nodded off! (I can virtually hear the Hovis song playing in the background – although I have always lived in London).
Isobel says:
Saturday jumble sales, charity shopping for decades, a real mix of great finds, coats on top of our ancient eiderdowns… I can relate to it all, Maudie! We were 10 pound Poms in inner-city Adelaide, South Australia, in a tiny worker’s cottage. Most of our neighbours were in the same boat.
Ha – I have friends who were £10 Poms! They had a whale of a time but are now back in the UK after many years’ down under. I remember my dad desperate to go but my mum refused and I don’t think he ever really forgave her!
Boadicea says:
Heck! I’ve just realised that most of my clothes are vintage not necessarily through age but more because I hang onto them for so long!
Saba says:
By now, I have a mountain of vintage clothes. Among the pleasures — scrumptious fabrics only available in the United States to shoppers at Bergdorf’s or at top designers’ stores, collars, sleeves, and waists that fit the body, interesting prints and patterns no longer available except in very expensive clothes, and my own pile of garments that suit my proclivities and can be mixed and matched in creative ways. Never loud, but always special. Also, I sew and restyle many garments. Also, I embroider poetry and designs on vintage clothes, most recently spiders crawling on a prissy pink rose-patterned summer suit (1960s Villager brand). So, even on a dark winter day — well, actually I love dark winter days — but dressing up a bit adds a smile on any day. That’s Not My Age has helped me keep all this contemporary. Alyson, I first saw a copy of one of your books at the Mohonk Mountain House, located in the Hudson River Valley in New York State, maybe five years ago and have followed you since. Thanks for adding to my compulsive but always pleasurable pastime!
For anyone wanting to join the game — some sellers of used clothing are excellent stylists and can dig out treasures you may not have noticed, so get to know your vendors. I’m wishing to afford a trip to London to the wonderful fair listed above!
We almost need to coin another word for “vintage”. Fashion is so eclectic today. You can often find the same styles in vintage stores as on the high street. Any ideas?
Chris says:
I live in Santa Fe New Mexico and we have many fabulous consignment stores here.
The range of clothes is across the board and all of them are fun in a different way. When I shop at any of them I feel like I am on a treasure hunt!themis says:
As an North American fan, I can say I’ve found Etsy to be a very good resource for vintage, even from overseas. Last year I had a severe jones for a Nili Lotan Cambre linen military jacket but couldn’t stomach the price; found a perfect match for it; a vintage Laura Ashley shipped to me from your side of the ocean. I mean, I saved enough money to sponsor a few goats from Heifer International for a needy village. Designers recycle styles and patterns; if you can trace the original inspiration and have good research skills, you can source and reuse what’s already been produced.
Ellie says:
I love a good thrift store and try to shop second-hand-first, but sadly most true vintage runs too small for the average-sized modern body :(.
YES to second hand clothes and sneakers! (My comments are becoming too predictable.)
Chiara’s shirt is so gorgeous it makes me wish I wore orange!Mrs Tonia says:
Some very good points made here about vintage and second hand clothing and its implications if you don’t have choice. I’m not one for buying anything apart from books and glasses from any charity shops. Rather I give pieces of my wardrobe as well as ceramics to them. Always clean and of good quality. But too small or too tight across chest or arms for a comfortable fit. Apart from
Oxfam, my favourite charity for donations is one supporting a Children’s Hospice They send me messages about how much sales of my clothing have raised for their work. It’s win-win.
What I’m more keen on is repurposing my own extensive wardrobe. Very much doing what Alyson advocates in her books : laying things out, switching them around and trying on newly devised combinations. Interested in seeing if I owned any puffed sleeves blouses this morning I came across a printed silk blouse, Paris vintage, with full elbow length sleeves and a tie neck. I’d had it redone to wear untucked years ago. Now perfect fit to wear with a 2000 Prince of Wales wool fitted suit jacket from
Jaeger I have kept. Plan is to wear with some wider legged black trousers I’ve retained or trim cigarette shaped newer ones. So my version of “vintage” is my own stock of vintage from my own wardrobe. No expenditure, sustainable and nice quality. And I’ve far too many handbags in pristine condition and scarcely worn wedgie sandals, Robert Clergerie, from way back to add a new twist.
I’m grateful that I invested in good clothing when I had the means to do so. And now every incentive to keep up the exercise so that the clothing will still fit me.Longdenlife says:
I remember dressing in jumble sale buys back in the late 80’s – Levi’s and velvet smoking jackets seemed to be a thing for me then as I remember
.
My most recent bargains? A Hobbs cashmere jumper that had been washed and shrunk but fits me perfectly (£4) and a Jaeger black crepe dinner jacket (£20 – I did think twice at paying that for some reason)A great read of these messages above, and I agree with Chris, that shopping this way feels like a treasure hunt. I would say that three quarters of my wardrobe are from charity or dress agencies and, Longdenlife, it’s funny but I also ponder over some prices even if it is a great bargain.
One of my favourite ‘finds’ is a wool camel coat, £12, sized a lot larger than my regular fit, but I love the oversized slouchy shape. So ‘yay’ to pre loved with a few well chosen high street gems for a unique stylish wardrobe.I’ve worn vintage/second hand since I was 14 (that’s a long time!) and it forms the majority of my wardrobe. What I particularly enjoy about it is that I feel pieces find me rather than me finding them and it keeps me open to new looks. What has changed over time is that I find I can no longer subvert certain looks – no more 1960s tweed skirt suits or dresses, I look matronly in them, no 1930s bias cut as I’m totally the wrong body shape for that. What has never changed is my love of print and vintage is a treasure trove for print lovers. I got a velvet Pucci suit a fortnight ago – nobody’s wearing that type of vintage here in Brighton right now, it’s all military parka liners and customised denim.
kellly says:
I’m with Carol!
I’ve worn vintage and second-hand most of my adult life. In addition to being more imaginative it’s also ecological (I’m not adding more consumerism to landfills) and unique – not to mention it works well within my budget. There are very few items of clothing or shoes that I buy new and haven’t for years. I know how to put an outfit together to get a look I like and at this past year’s holiday party, I was wearing a gown I thrifted for $10 and looked as good as anybody else there! The shoes were “expensive” – silver leather heels, also thrifted, that went with my gown, for $24. No one would believe me if I told them.Srebrina Mincheva says:
Goodwill Outlet Worlds are the absolute best for me. Nothing beats buying things that cost $1.25 per pound. Great if you like going through a lot of clothes to find your favourite gems. I do like some resale stores as well such as Plato’s Closet, Buffalo exchange and such…rarely do I buy anything new!
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2 charity shops on our High Street, so I go in regularly for a rummage. Best finds : a Jil Sander tunic dress, in fine suede & wool £8.00 ; a black snakeskin effect Russell & Bromley handbag £5.00. I couldn’t possibly afford Vestaire etc!