Roll with it: how to wear a polo-neck
Photo: Claire Pepper
There’s a 1960s mood moving through London this spring. The Fashion and Textile Museum has a small but perfectly curated Swinging London exhibition (until June 2) showcasing the work of the Chelsea Set, including Mary Quant and Terence Conran. It’s the perfect taster for a larger retrospective of Mary Quant opening at the V&A in April that will include unseen pieces from her personal archive. And over at the Gagosian in Mayfair, David Bailey’s black and white portraits from the 1960s are on display (until March 30), including shots of “the Shrimp” – one of the era’s iconic models, Jean Shrimpton. Is it any wonder then that right now the poloneck jumper – one of the key sartorial symbols of that decade – is experiencing a renaissance?
“It’s all about the rollneck,” says Rachael Wood, co-founder of London-based Chinti & Parker. Known for creating brightly coloured standout sweaters, the label has recently launched an Essentials collection of six more subtle designs in 100 per cent cashmere. “Our Essentials cashmere rollneck has been one of our bestsellers since it launched in September 2018. People are shopping differently now – our customers have been asking us for plain pieces and it felt like the right time to do something more sober.” Going from statement to stealth always makes good style sense. ‘You need those pieces that sew everything together,’ says Wood, ‘Our parents wore rollnecks – now we’re wearing rollnecks.’
From top: Prada geometric-print jersey poloneck. John Smedley merino-wool Catkin rollneck. Chloé paisley-print polyamide poloneck.
Though if an outfit is pared-down, a patterned polo neck can whoop things up. Elsewhere, Scottish knitwear label Esk is embracing “Shrimp”-inspired modernist style with the striped Sophia poloneck. In two-ply cashmere, available in navy and ecru, navy and signal red, or black and grey. For extra-fine merino-wool knits, John Smedley’s 30-gauge, slim-fit Catkin rollneck comes in an assortment of colours and is perfect for layering. Personally, I’m currently enjoying layering a striped cotton-jersey poloneck underneath a jumpsuit. Other ways to roll with it include: teaming a fine-knit poloneck with a silk blouse and a midi skirt, or simply wearing a high-necked sweater underneath an open-collared shirtdress. This versatile base layer adds interest to an outfit whilst being quietly on-trend.
This is an edited version of a feature I’ve written for the FT’s How To Spend It HERE.
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Discussion (21 Comments)
Mrs Tonia says:
Hope to see both the Fashion museum 60s show plus Mary Quant at the V &A this spring. I was a young teenager then and well remember how stylish those short dresses, flat shoes and Vidal Sassoon angular haircuts looked. And going to Quant’s boutique Bazaar on the Kings Road. These were expensive clothes that were emulated in less expensive versions. Biba really introduced affordable fast fashion.
Yes to all high necks. For layering I like close fitting Heat tech ones from Uniqlo. I used to be given silk polo necks, ski layerings, from L L Bean, to wear under shirts and dresses. Very useful at this changeable time of year with temperatures going backwards.MaureenC says:
Love them too but mostly cotton, can’t wear wooly ones in doors or I end up like a lobster. Very thankful to Me&Em for the detachable polo necks I have the black and white striped one which looks like the one on the top row, it is wonderful idea and meets the needs of my over sensitive inner thermostat.
Ooh that is a good idea – like Winser London’s silk blouse with the detachable pussy bow tie. Thanks for the top tip, Maureen.
Patra silks makes silk thermals and polo neck inserts as described here.
Warmth without bulk or itchiness. Recommend looking at their website.
maudie says:
I wish I could wear a roll neck but I get claustrophobia in them and keep scrabbling around at my neck for air!! Yes, they are the cosiest, warmest way to keep warm without serious scarfology but, try as I may I come over all peculiar! I had an airforce blue cord jumpsuit virtually the same as the one you are wearing in the 70’s. I loved it to death until………someone dropped a pint of Guinness down it and I had to wash it. (As opposed to dry cleaning – I am not a heathen!). It was never the same again and it lost all it’s oomph. I was heartbroken!
Sara says:
Have always liked the polo neck look and wore many -until the dreaded hot flushes began and never went away. Sixteen years on, still having them, so cannot manage a polo; even the detachable one would have me lobster coloured and agitated. Great shame and even more so as when the moment passes, the shivery part follows so I can’t even stick with fewer layers and less central heating. The joys of female hormones! I’d still not swap for male ones though, far too many good things about being female. I shall admire the style from afar!
Heidi Heifetz says:
Like the jumpsuit. But………WHY are you always photographed with that same post- looking away and eyes to the side? Why do you not look straight at the camera?
Hi Heidi, I’m not a model and don’t particularly enjoy having my photo taken. I have two poses (looking forwards, and to the side!) and I try to mix them up. But often I’m thinking about how the outfit looks, that’s my main concern as a fashion journalist.
Catherine says:
Hello,
Does it matter how Alyson is photographed? Some people prefer a certain profile. “Hello, Victoria Beckham!” Each to their own.
Kind regards,
Catherine
Maisie says:
I used to wear polo necks a lot when I was younger. But the thing with them is that on the one hand they can hide a crepey neck, but on the other if your jawline is no longer firm you can get a turkey wattle look going on. Not lovely ! I do still wear them for cosiness, usually sticking to a fine wool knit or cotton,
with a not too snug neck. Toast do some nice ones, perfect for layering.
How envious I am of those of you in the UK who can go to those exhibitions. I was living in London during the late 60’s- early 70″s, so that would be a real nostalgia trip. And the David Bailey exhibition, wasn’t Jean Shrimpton one of our loveliest models ever ? And still beautiful.Pamela says:
I agree with you about the polo neck or turtleneck, Maisie! A turtleneck emphasizes my sagging jawline terribly, even though it does hide the neck.
There are always the catalogues to order. V & A had an exhibition about Revolutionary movements in 60s as reflected in the arts including fashion. I was most nostalgic to see those clothes again as part of the displays. Looking forward to revisiting 60s fashion via the exhibitions which Alyson mentions.
Re Jean Shrimpton she was such a beautiful model. Seeing pictures of her in a documentary about the photographer David Bailey when they went to shoot on the streets of New York for Vogue demonstrated what an outstanding model she was at that time.
I WISH I could wear polo necks, but I just can’t stand anything that sits closely against my neck. Doesn’t matter the fabric, it’s just a weird quirk of mine. But I love the one you’re wearing!
Lizzie Guinn says:
I have never given up the polo necks that I first wore in the 60’s – I remember knitting myself a skinny-rib mustard coloured wool one ( in the days when you made clothes yourself, and yes, it was very itchy!) but these days rarely wear wool next to my skin. Kettlewell do a good silky cotton one in a brilliant range of colours. I love your blog Alyson – living in deepest Dorset and rarely in London it’s good to feel in touch. How true to stress the importance of kindness. If only….
I love turtle necks and choose mine with a lose roll which I find a bit more casual (although it does not work for all looks). I often pin a small brooch at the base out if, off center – people always comment on it so I guess it’s an interesting combo.
Ll 
Susana 
Isobel 
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Great article . I’m a massive fan of Arket’s sheer merino polo necks, not too warm and can chicify and cosify any outfit. Wearing a lavender coloured one at the moment under a fitted denim shirt. Love ’em! (Uniqlo are good too)