The modern day kimono dress
— by Alyson Walsh
As the Kyoto to Catwalk exhibition post was so well received, I thought readers might be interested in some more kimono-inspired style. As part of an Instagram project I’m currently working on with John Lewis & Partners over the next couple of months, I’ll be featuring my picks from the store’s collections. The oversized ‘kimono dress’ from Kin is an absolute winner. Though some might argue it’s a long way from the traditional Japanese garment, the band running along the neckline and down the centre front, and the looser, boxy shape do have a kimono-esque feel. This is a modern day interpretation. Made from a substantial viscose fabric, too hot for a heatwave but good quality nevertheless, the not-so-little black dress is definitely a reliable addition to the grown-up wardrobe. Viscose is a man-made, regenerated natural cellulose fibre that is widely used in the fashion industry – and I have to be honest, I’m not sure how sustainable the material used in the Kin dress is. There’s a feature on Vogue Business regarding a new report aiming to make viscose production more environmentally-friendly HERE. And there’s an interesting exhibition Renovation: Kimono & Sustainability at Japan House in London (situated on Kensington High Street so it might be worth booking a visit if you’re off to the V&A).
The citrus-bright suede bag is by Gerard Darel – and of course, I’ve teamed the kaftan dress with a pair of run-around Teva’s.
More summer sandals you can walk everywhere in HERE. And a reminder that there’s a new Ask Alyson Q&A ‘ How to achieve a less is more beauty look’ over on Patreon.
Discussion (34 Comments)
- Alyson Walsh says:
Thanks Gill. I wish I had the talent to make my own! Hadn’t heard of Grainline Studio – looks like a good place for patterns.
- Annemarie says:
I also make Grainline’s patterns and their minimalist aesthetic.
- Betty says:
I love KIN’s kimono dresses/tops! A bonus about them in this heat is that they seem to create their own breeze when you move… Stylish AND cool.
- Helen Rose says:
Love the frock ALison and you look lovely in it. See if you can convince them to produce it in silk!
- Anne Murphy says:
Love the dress, but my ? Is about the sandals. I bought a pair of Tevas, having seen your good self wearing them & love their casual style. However having worn them round the house for several weeks, they’re still not comfy enough to wear outside. Is it my feet? Or do I need to persevere?
- Patrish says:
You are not alone. I love the look of Tevas but they don’t love me back. I’ve tried.
Someone once told me that if a shoe is not comfy right off the bat, don’t buy or don’t keep trying. No breaking in period should be needed.- Anne Murphy says:
Thank you Patrish, I think you’re probably right….eBay here they come!
- Maureen says:
Same here! I thought they’d be far more comfortable. Although I can’t wear Birkenstocks either as the arch support on them is so high. I returned them and bought copies from Amazon with a flat foot bed and they’re as comfortable as slippers.
- Alyson Walsh says:
I’ve been fine in my Teva’s. Found them really comfy from the start – so I’m inclined to agree with Patrish (though I do remember having to wear DM’s in as a teenager…)
- Anne Murphy says:
Thanks Alyson….such a shame because I really like them…
- LisaBee says:
I love Kin clothes and have lots, but the viscose on this (and the similar top) felt a bit scratchy. If it comes up during project, be great if you cd let John Lewis know at least some customers wd pay more for kin designs in slightly more luxurious fabrics (sometimes they are very good but not always). Also that the boxes they send online orders in can’t be re-sealed easily for returns – pull-strip to open them leaves a giant gap in the box. It’s so weird they don’t see this is an issue. Box shd reseal easily… I’ve given feedback to JL on these issues directly but guessing you have more clout! 🙂
- Rosie says:
There is a DIY zero waste dress, easily made by a novice, the Chris Wood Sews “Envelope dress”. Its a set of instructions with a simple formula for making it at any size. Just straight seams & a bed sheet = great dress that looks pretty much exactly like this one. Its a ‘no pattern’ pattern and its ZERO WASTE. Good to know
- Anne says:
It is a lovely look on you Alyson, but I think you have to be tall to carry off a flowing kimono like the one from Kin.
- Maureen says:
I bought one, they did a shorter one in a lovely khaki green. However I looked like I was about to go in for an operation so it had to go back.
- Alyson Walsh says:
Oh dear….There’s also a nice version in a blue, black and white print that does not look like a hospital gown!
- Krys A says:
I love the whole look! It makes me want to expel the old sheath dresses that are hanging around in the back of my closet.
- maudie says:
I wish I could wear a sheath dress – my pear shape looks enormous in them! Size 12 top and size 14 bottom.
- maudie says:
Now this is my kind of dress. No faff, pop over the head, loose and flowey but a shame that it is in viscose. I suppose Kin get the ‘drape’ from viscose and cotton wouldn’t work. Cotton and linen mix? Just thinking about viscose in this heatwave makes me even hotter. I have never tried Tevas but I can wear Birkies straight out of the box all day. However, my bloody Bass Weejuns are another story. I bought a size 7 – too loose and wide and changed them for a 6.5. I can get them on with their shoe horn (provided) but I simply cannot get them to ‘submit’ into any kind of comfort. Maybe I shall try wearing them with thick socks around the house when it cools down? Any other ideas? Stay cool and pray for the thunderstorm!
- Mrs Tonia says:
Thanks for link to Japan house. I’m fortunate to own two silk kimonos which are vintage and in my possession for a long time. I’ve always loved the textiles and loose wide sleeves, a product of their being constructed from panels of fabric sewn together, hence the drop shoulder and loose armholes. So comfortable to wear and can be open over a camisole or wrapped around with a tie sash. When the V and A had its significant exhibition on Patchwork they were selling scarves made up of strips of Kimono silk offcuts sewn together lined in plain silk. Two of these made their way into my wardrobe and still give me pleasure to wear.
Glad to learn that you are bringing TNMA sensibilities and design flair into your new collaboration with John Lewis Kin range. I’ve looked at these when I’ve visited my local branch. Keenly priced certainly but I’ve never felt inclined to try on or buy any garment. Too voluminous and maybe not so flattering on the less tall. I’m sure your input about fabrics, less synthetics and other points will enhance the offering there. And well done to have this gig too. - Martha says:
I love everything about the dress EXCEPT the viscose fabric. It’s too hot for my area.
- Martine Large says:
I love your bag. Do you think kimonos work on big-busted women?
- Alyson Walsh says:
Hello Martine, I think they do as long as the kaftan is not too oversized, and there’s not too much fabric. A carefully chosen v-neck/ wrap shape looks good on a large-bust.
- Ann Shanahan says:
Thanks for heads up on this dress….so versatile and comfortable.
Just what I was needing will be well used.Your ideas are very helpful and give me confidence to put things together in a different way.. using things already in my wardrobe.This dress looks great with a denim jacket too ,
- Jakki Moxham says:
Alyson, seeing the – really interesting- comments which refer to sewing patterns I wonder if, when you feature a clothing item (kimono dress, workwear boiler suit, jacket) you could suggest patterns that replicate the item. Now we’re not going to shops so much, want to use fabrics that suit us and are sustainable, and are trying to become less consumerist I think many of us would love to increase our range of home sewn items.
- Alyson Walsh says:
Ooh that’s a good idea and I would love to do it but not being an expert in sewing patterns, I’m wondering how feasible it is (?) And if I might end up simply repeating the same pattern brands (?) Maybe I should throw it open to the comments box at the end of the feature. Ask readers if they know where to find a similar pattern….
- Geraldine says:
I admire and keenly follow you on Instagram and your blog posts. I am also a patreon subscriber of yours. There was much discussion last year in the sewing community that I follow on Instagram about cultural appropriation. Specifically, an independent New Zealand pattern designer received a lot of criticism for naming a pattern the Kochi Kimono. She subsequently changed the name to the Kochi Jacket. I have to admit that I was not aware that the use of the word kimono as a fashion statement was considered so insensitive, but as has happened more recently with the Black Lives Matter movement, I think we’ve all realised there’s much room for improvement in raising our consciousness. My reason for bringing this to your attention is that I’m sure that when you use the word kimono to describe a dress you’re wearing, you are unaware that this is a culturally insensitive use of the word. I hope you accept this from me in the spirit with which it’s intended.
- Alyson Walsh says:
Hello Geraldine, thank you for your thoughtful comment and for following TNMA. I am aware of the general discussion around cultural appropriation in fashion but (like yourself) hadn’t realised using the word kimono was deemed insensitive. Thank you for raising the issue, this was a quick post on the back of the fabulous exhibition at the V&A celebrating the influence of the kimono across the ages. I guess I was a bit caught up in that, but will definitely take more care in future.
- Geraldine says:
Hi Alyson. Thanks for your response. Again, there was absolutely no criticism intended just a raising of awareness. I know (now) that the kimono is a very traditional and cultural garment and that many Japanese find its mostly thoughtless appropriation by the fashion industry offensive. I guess we’re never too old to learn.
I love what you’re doing and enjoy your posts.
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Love that frock. It’s very similar to the Grainline’s Felix dress, which I’ve made once from a heavy poly crepe and plan to make again with some lovely viscose challis from Clothspot. It’s cheaper to make your own but I would prefer to be able to afford to buy a decent quality dress ready-made. Needs must, however, and furlough has given me plenty of time to dabble. I really enjoy your posts, Alison.