This summer I’ll be dressing like Edith Pretty (Carey Mulligan) in The Dig
— by Alyson Walsh
If you like The Detectorists, you’ll love The Dig. A dreamy film based on the true story of the discovery of an Anglo-Saxon burial ship at Sutton Hoo in Suffolk; on the brink of the Second World War. Carey Mulligan plays the determined widow, Mrs Edith Pretty, who has a feeling that the ‘mounds’ on her Suffolk estate may contain archaeological treasures and hires the self-taught excavationist Basil Brown (Ralph Fiennes) to investigate. It’s always a shame when the part of a woman in her fifties is given to an actor in her thirties (Fiennes, in his late 50s, plays a man in his 50s), but once I’d got over my initial annoyance – I enjoyed the film, nonetheless. Both Carey Mulligan and Ralph Fiennes are excellent; but then so would be the pairing of Kristin Scott Thomas or Helena Bonham Carter and a man of a certain age…
Anyhow, putting ageism to one side for the moment, let’s talk about the clothes. As this summer we’ll be staying at home in the UK, what we wear needs to be weather-appropriate and practical. The Dig showcases a quintessentially English look, with a colour palette inspired by the earthy tones of the beautiful Suffolk countryside (not a jogging pant or elasticated waist in sight, hurrah!). Throughout, Edith wafts around in high-waisted wool trousers, homespun knitwear, bow blouses, tea dresses and a showerproof mac. All very Margaret Howell.
Costume designer Alice Babidge has recreated the period in a series of outfits that feel realistic, timeless and infinitely wearable. ‘I loved all of her outdoor, stomping-through-a-field looks in men’s trousers,’ Mulligan told Vogue. ‘Everything has history, and everything feels like something that they would’ve owned, you know? The majority of key costumes were originals or copied from originals. Nothing feels like a costume, and I think that’s so important when you’re doing period dramas, that the clothes aren’t wearing you but they feel like a part of the character.’
(How clothes contribute to the character is a subject Amelia Bullmore touches on in my recent podcast).
This summer we’ll all be digging Edith Pretty’s style.
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Discussion (49 Comments)
- Alyson Walsh says:
I did wonder about Peggy Piggott – and it wasn’t until afterwards that I realised cousin Rory was a fictional character…
Always happy to receive a recommendation. Thanks, Debs.
- maudie says:
I could not agree more. I thought The Dig was an exquisite film. Although apparently Mrs Pretty didn’t have her son until she was 47 and died when she was 59 – so I agree with your ageist comment that despite Carey Mulliagan’s excellent acting she was too young for the part. However, did she not wear those clothes with total aplomb! Everything the actors wore in the film were beyond beautiful – I am already planning my warmer weather outfits around this film!! Community Clothing’s camel raincoat should start me on my way – fantasising about my summer of tea dresses, cardis, lace up shoes, a jolly bob haircut (WHEN they re-open), and a pair of Hickman & Bousfield safari trousers. Nice boxy linen shirt, plimpsolls and good to go. Should I really be this inspired by costumes in a film? I always am!!
- Alyson Walsh says:
Yes to being inspired by costume in film! Annie Hall, Carol, Blow Up, Gatsby….
- Catharine m bird says:
I understand the reaction to the appearance of ageism in the film. However, the start of the film clearly reads that this is a movie based on a novel about a true event. So I give it latitude
- Doreen Humphrey says:
The film was lovely, and Carey Mulligan was absolutely brilliant too.. Can’t understand the critisim at all.
The film was beautifully acted, even though Lily James part didn’t seem to fit.
What a wonderful wonderful film.- Alyson Walsh says:
Hello Doreen, agree with you about the film, it is lovely. And I’ve got nothing against Carey Mulligan, she’s a fine actor. It’s just a shame that a 56-year-old woman has to be played by someone much younger.
- maudie says:
Carey Mulligan acted the part beautifully with a regal gentility women. My criticism also is that she in far younger than the actual character and there was an age dissonance with Ralph Fiennes. Yes, Lily James was a little superfluous to the script.
- MaureenC says:
It’s not a criticism of Carey Mulligan (she’s great) or indeed any other woman cast as the inevitability younger wife of a late middle aged man. It’s a criticism of an industry which has a problem depicting middle aged women as love interest. You might be cast with a bloke the same age as you but generally only if you are playing someone’s parents with no romantic frisson! In general from student films through to Hollywood blockbusters couples are cast with at least. a 15-20 year age gap.
- Alyson Walsh says:
You’ve absolutely nailed the issue, Maureen. Thank you.
- Mary Skelcher says:
Hi. I wrote the biography of Edith Pretty: from Socialite to Sutton Hoo.
Although Carey Mulligan was ms-cast in terms of age I felt she captured Edith beautifully. I read many of Edith’s diaries, spoke to people who worked for her and I worked at Sutton Hoo.
I saw the real Edith in Carey’s portrayal.
Edith as a fadhion icon? I think she would have thought that a hoot! I did like the clothes in the film tho.- Alyson Walsh says:
Oh amazing! I’ll look out for your book and thank you for commenting, Mary.
- Carol Lang says:
A reuniting of Ralph Fiennes and Kristin Scott Thomas would have been wonderful.
- maudie says:
like my superfluous use of word ‘women’ after gentility!
- Nicola says:
Unfortunately I look a bit washed out in the earthy tones featured in The Dig but I did nip straight onto the Boden website and order a floral tea dress! Lol! I hadn’t actually connected why until just now.
- Leslie Hunter says:
Agree completely on the age issue, especially because there are any number of sensational actresses in the UK “of a certain age”. Living in the States but addicted to British film and TV, the universal comment I find myself making is: “I love that UK directors cast for the character and not always for the looks.” Unlike Hollywood. It makes a gigantic difference for the authenticity factor and the richness of the story. Okay, you’re right, put that aside. The clothes are divine and made me remember Keely Hawes’ wardrobe in The Durrells–it made me weak in the knees.
- Sarah says:
I find it very funny that people can be critical about certain aspects but not others. Apparently its fine for people of different race, sexuality and gender to play a variety of roles. Anything other wouldn’t be classed as discrimination these days. But God forbid someone of a different age play an acting role, there is complete uproar!
- K says:
The issues is not that it happens. It is that, for women, it happens almost all the time, and for men: never. I did take comfort in seeing Judi Dench recently playing a historical character who was actually younger than her…..but I guess Ms. Dench is an exception to almost everything, having played Juliet in mid-age!
- Valleycat1 says:
The way I see it is that the “uproar” over decades-younger women being cast for older roles, with no makeup aging, is because this is such an entrenched part of film casting. Older (and just plain old) men get cast for age appropriate or even younger parts and are almost always paired with much younger women as romantic interests. As one example, Harrison Ford – in real life interviews he really shows his age, yet in cinema he is the dashing, sexy youngish adventurer, romantically paired with women young enough to be his daughter. Only one example of the reverse that comes to mind is Leonardo cast as the male lead against an obviously more mature Kate Winslett (even my mom at the time thought it was ridiculous to think Rose would have been interested in a boy.
- zerka says:
I think the problem is that its one-way traffic. Have you ever seen an older woman cast to play someone much younger? Unfortunately, practises like this only change when the people affected (older women in this case) point out the inequity.
- Anthea says:
Thanks, Allyson – inspiring article. I haven’t yet watched The Dig but will get on with it post haste! Also totally inspired by her wardrobe just from this article!
- Peta Sweet says:
I loved the look. It took me back to my days at university when, having little money to spend, I wore second hand men’s clothes from a fabulous local shop – what I called bowling jackets and large beige cotton trousers pulled in to a tucked in white t shirt with an old belt. The final touch was black slip on pumps from Woolworths. I still had the trousers until a few years ago when I had a big clear out before I moved. Wish I had kept them.
- Stephanie Maltman says:
I agree about the film and the costumes and Carey Mulligan wore them with such ease which it has to be said, only added to their beauty and hers. I liked her hair very much too. Margaret Howell yes but I was also thinking of Rowan Yarns. Perhaps now, especially in lockdown, might be a good time to think of knitting our own as I know many people did at the time in which the film is set. I’ve always had a soft spot for corduroys, brogues and woollies.
- Justine Arifin Navarro says:
As my opinion, as long as the actors play well the role on the film, there is no judgement about their age, and I do agree that Carey Mulligan and Ralph Fiennes, both are great in this film, The Dig.
- Hilary says:
I’ve not seen the film but I know the story. I imagine the clothes are wonderful and very wearable.
Am I allowed to mention Private Eye magazine ? Their lookalike section in the last issue showed the Sutton Hoo helmet next to Anna Wintour wearing sunglasses…
- Beth says:
I’m an American who adored the clothes in this film. I did not know the story of Sutton Hoo and went down and lovely rabbit trail reading more about it after watching the film. I like to try and sort out the fact from fiction in historical pieces like that. I sew and have begun searching for patterns and fabric to make some lovely floaty dresses and blouses for the summer. I went need the long trousers for summer in the American south, though!
Thanks for all you do, Alyson. Your IG, blog posts, and podcast are all terrific!
- Chris says:
I totally agree with the above, Carey Mulligan was stunning and I really enjoyed her performance, however, why did they feel they could not cast this part as a 56 year old? We have some amazing actors in this age group and it’s those they insult. I agree about the clothes and if anyone is thinking of knitting some Fair Isle sweater/tops do look at the amazing patterns of Susan Crawford Vintage especially those in her Vintage Shetland Project Book.
- Beth says:
Apologies for the typos in the comment above. Autofill and I don’t always get along!
- Jill Shooter says:
Such a lovely movie, ignore the back story and just enjoy the acting and cinematography. Wonderful portrayal by both main actors.
I recommend reading the book after watching it for a more real take on it .
Oh, those trousers! Comfortable and very elegant! - Moira Dennison says:
There’s more in common with the Dig & The Detectorists than you might think. A lot of The Dig was filmed around Aldeborough way (tho the excavation itself was shot in Godalming. )The Detectorists was filmed in Framlingham and bits of Great Glemham all within a very few miles of each other. So if you ever go to Latitude/Snape Maltings/Southwold – you can wander around these beautiful places to your hearts delight, drifting. . And if you are into MR James obviously go to Dunwich (where we live). Sartorially speaking I think Basil Brown ‘s archaeologist wins hands down over Andy & Lance’s Detectorists every time…
- Alyson Walsh says:
And Mr TNMA has just informed me that Johnny Flynn (cousin Rory in The Dig) sings the title song in Detectorists!
- Claire B says:
We watched the film on Friday, I loved its beautiful understated quality, the clothes are wonderful and the acting brilliant. I also agree that it’s a shame that we can never have honest depictions of older women, it’s depressing how often they are written out of history. Having said that I do like watching Carey Mulligan and thought she was very good in this!
- Heidi Augustin says:
I’m so happy to see your recognition of the costumes in The Dig as I also loved them. I think this style conveys a soft dignity that is timeless and very attractive. But where to get them!!?? Especially those charming blouses! And how can this style be adapted for shapes that have gone thick around the middle in late middle age?
On a related note, I am trying without success to find casual wool (twill perhaps?) pants to be worn outside for hiking or working in the yard in cold weather. They just don’t make em here in the States. Perhaps somewhere in Scotland?
Any help would be so appreciated!- lizzie g says:
Hi there Heidi, Peter Christian does perfect cavalry twill, 100% wool, last and look good for a life time and very good value, excellent service online worldwide, for men (in theory), but maybe you can find a size that fits or alter as you need.
- maudie says:
I suddenly remembered my ancient, vintage olive green hand-knitted wool Marion Foale cardigan lurking in my blanket box. Out it came today and I am swanning around in it and beige chinos (tights underneath!). I had forgotten what a gem that cardi is!
- Nancy Karpen says:
We watched The Dig last weekend and enjoyed it immensely. I had no knowledge of this story ahead of time . The clothing was wonderful and really evoked the era in a way that fit so beautifully with the story. I think that I will be sewing white cotton and black and white blouses and great slacks for my spring and summer wardrobe.
- Maisie Kapollas says:
I hope I can get to see this film, it sounds just my thing .We have so many good older actresses , and the characters should be played by women true to the original age. Oh, the clothes, love them, I have the mac, and trousers and shoes. I am often inspired by clothes in series and films, these days I want to be Hermione, Poirot’s novelist friend in the series, we’ve been watching re-runs here. Perhaps taking it a little too far ?
- Christina Haughey says:
Just a lovely movie that tied the ancient to the present. I too wish that an older actress had played the part of Edith but that being said Carey Mulligan did a marvelous job. I have not read the book but I think the Lily James character was a nod to the future. The fact that she found a life of her own and a passion for that life, was juxtaposed beautifully by the story of a ancient grave, a impending death, and a war that was knocking on the very door of her world, indeed the whole world. Her’s was a story in the beginning of it’s telling so I had no problem with that part of the storyline. The symbolism was extraordinary, the placing ever so carefully of the flowers at Edith’s husbands grave, and the placing of the boughs of evergreen that covered and protected the ship really struck me. All in all I just loved the whole thing! Oh and yes, yes, yes, the clothes were exquisite.
Read your post this afternoon and watched the movie this evening! Thank you! I hadn’t heard of it before, but enjoyed it very much. And yes, the clothes were lovely!
- lizzie g says:
I love a raglan sleeve on an oversized coat, like Carey’s in the photo above, its so much better than a dropped shoulder. i also really love the look of pintucked silk or cotton blouses and dresses, but i’d need staff for the finickity ironing involved. Has anyone got tips for managing them? Less of a problem in polyester, but then the problem is polyester.
Florence Carter-Wood’s wedding dress, trench coat, cardigan, beanie, pintucked blouses, and all the women and men’s wardrobe from Summer in February are on my list too. Great to see so much real wool and linen- knitted, woven, tweed on screen, a reminder of life before petrochemical fabrics. - Rachel Lees says:
Basil Brown’s clothes reminds me of my grandad, who used to cycle to his allotment in button-down shirt and tweed jacket. He used to change into boots when he started working, but other than that he could have been an extra in the film! In reality, Mrs Pretty was several years older than Mr Brown. Yes, pit is a shame an older actress didn’t play Mrs Pretty but it is, after all, a fictional take on a factual event.
- Mary says:
Not interested in seeing the movie as I am fed up with these unrealistic casting decisions. Sorry but this has become too grating for me.
- Jax says:
Fashion does look very good in this movie (I’m reminded of another Ralph Fiennes movie, The English Patient). For more info on the problematic portrayal of the women characters in this movie, see these articles:
https://www.thetimes.co.uk/article/netflix-drama-fails-to-dig-out-the-ancient-truth-of-sutton-hoo-728srdndr
https://www.thetimes.co.uk/article/how-accurate-is-the-dig-whats-true-and-false-in-netflixs-sutton-hoo-film-r2nxbh33b
https://www.wardrobeoxygen.com/we-need-to-talk-about-the-dig-on-netflix/While I understand that the movie is based on a novel based on the event, it just seems like a huge missed opportunity to push for awareness and visibility of 2 women who seemed quite remarkable in their own rights, as well give attention to 2 other women who were also involved as photographers with the excavation. It would’ve been great to show our younger generations of women that even back then some women were able to do what they were talented and capable of doing, despite having just gotten the right to vote in 1918 in the UK.
- K says:
L di C is actually slightly older than KW, but he always did looks ridiculously young for his age. Although I agree that the pairing looked awkward, for more than one reason. I didn’t even realize that KW was supposed to be American until recent years when I saw her quoted apologizing for her botched American accent. What American accent??????
- Anne Barrett says:
Sorry but I won’t be watching this- even though I adore Carey Mulligan . Right now there are so many other great movies/shows with women of color, women of a certain age, -even trans and gay women-that I don’t need to watch yet another inappropriately cast movie that makes women my age invisible. Until we start boycotting movies that don’t represent us, we will remain invisible. And while I typically love the clothing of this period, I seriously doubt that a woman in her forties would wear a frilly peter pan collar. Even pre-WWII.
- Alyson Walsh says:
Fair point, Anne. And I don’t think I’ve ever worn a Peter Pan collar!
- Hillbilly says:
I loved the clothes and settings etc but was disappointed with the story line . There was so little about the site and what they found – blink and they were gone.
I think any film is improved with ‘ real looking ‘ people almost regardless of everything else, think Timothy Spall or Ms Staunton.
I agree Peter pan collars and puffed sleeves smack of Whatever Happened to Baby Jane.
Thank goodness for longer length dresses appearing in shops – even lots are not very grown up. - Candace Adams says:
Indeed. I watched this film last saturday night and it really was satisfying. There’s something about these classic old-timey period-drama films that always is oddly satisfying. The setting, the style, the aspect ratio (although, not usually) and yes, the outfits. The clothes DO play a huge role in these kinds of films that are set in the past. The clothes have a character, a personality of their own. Carey Mulligan really outdid herself in this movie. She is a remarkable actor and she has truly shown her color in this movie. She looked absolutely amazing and full of character in that yellow coat she wore in this.
And I would on the ageism factor that you pointed our. It is, indeed, a bit annoying. But a pretty decent movie nonetheless. I believe it goes without saying that I ‘dig’ it, lol!
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I enjoyed The Dig and although I knew of the discovery, not a great deal about the real story and it is worth the time to learn more about Basil Brown and how talented he was (and largely self-taught).
It is a shame an actress was cast outside of the age range, as I felt this actually detracted a little from the story and put it off balance as regards some of the relationships, but just my opinion.
The film is certainly a good watch and the costumes add to the overall look of the film, without becoming the stars of it and I often watch films over to soak in the details I miss the first time, including the costumes.
I did struggle with the fact that Lilly James was cast again and I was not sure what her role added to the film given the inaccuracy of the representation of Peggy Piggott (who was nothing like the portrayal). She was an experienced archaeologist, who went on to have a very distinguished career and this drop in of yet another Lilly James love interest felt unnecessary. I also struggle with the lack of casting imagination, as I can think of many others who would have given this role considerably more depth,
I hope you don’t mind, slightly off topic, but watched News of the World, with Tom Hanks last evening and I’d recommend this too.