What to wear right now: the white shirt
From Patti Smith to the supermodels wearing oversized white shirts in the Peter Lindbergh photos of the early 90s, there is no doubting the white shirt’s style credentials. When I interviewed Accidental Icon Lyn Slater for my latest book Know Your Style, Lyn explained that the white shirt is one of her style signifiers and she has at least 75 in her wardrobe, ‘ Layering is where the white shirt comes into play. It’s the canvas. Start with one piece and build around that.’
Ever since my school days, I’ve avoided wearing white. For me, it’s always been about the Lovely Blue Shirt with its complexion-enhancing properties. And then, and then….wilting, mid-heatwave and desperate for some extra Waft Factor, I nipped into Arket and was drawn to the rail of shirts with the 70% off sign (for 14 quid, I was prepared to give the white shirt another go). Here I’ve gone back to old-school with a pair of vintage Levi’s 501s – though I’m planning to whoop things up with pink cords and a little khaki malarkey.
Peter Lindbergh photo via Vogue
French stylist Carlyne Cerf de Dudzeele was responsible for the Super Shirts in the Peter Lindbergh photos. CCD worked as fashion director at American Vogue for a decade and famously styled Anna Wintour’s first front cover – a high-low mix of embellished Christian Lacroix top and indigo denim jeans. ‘I love to make shit look like gold,’ she told Italian Vogue about her approach to styling – and has also said that her role working on a fashion magazines ‘I never think I’m doing art – a fashion magazine is for women to look at the pages and be inspired. I’m amazed how many people forget that.’ Almost 26-years after the photo of Supermodels in Super Shirts, and I’m finally feeling inspired enough to buy one.
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Discussion (48 Comments)
Hello Tessa,
This is why I like wearing the oversized shirt with my Levi’s as they are quite high-waisted and so I can half-tuck everything in. Or you could try a silk shirt which will be slinkier and softer. The Arket white shirt is also more of a tunic/popover style that can be worn loose with Capri pants – another solution to the round-in-the-torso scenario.
Maryann says:
I love the idea of a white shirt but in reality I don’t like myself in them. I know from previous experience they just sit in the wardrobe so I will enjoy them on others. You look wonderful Alyson.
Robyn says:
I had a hard time finding a way to wear white shirts too. Per the advice of a merchandise associate I sized up a size (unless it is already oversized) and did a half tuck- yes I still do it. My shape is straight and athletic and it gives me definition without looking stuffy. A white popover has been my uniform this whole summer.
LMG says:
I don’t like myself in them either and white totally washes me out unfortunately, same with white t-shirts. Alyson looks great in hers.
Deede says:
I am a white shirt kinda girl…(apologies to Diane Keaton)…I feel dressed up and empowered when I wear my white shirt……Great and easy kind of fashion statement…
Sarah Smith says:
White shirts look great on other people but I always feel a little like Nurse Ratched !
maudie says:
I have only recently discovered the White Shirt. I cannot wear them in a formal way as I feel too much like a waitress, but casually they have taken me through the heatwave in style! My best purchase was French Connection’s (A shop I usually do not like) Rhodes poplin relaxed fit shirt which comes in five colours including white, plus a couple of striped colourways. I would have bought them all if I could have afforded it. I love your navy clogs – do they not rub and blister along the top of your foot? I also love the jeans – I am so tired of skinny jeans and with my post-60 ’round in the torso’ bod (thanks, Tessa for the terminology) I can’t do skinnies anymore! (Size 12 with a mystery middle area!).
stephanie says:
The waitress thing … yea, me too! I own a couple of nice white James Perse shirts but no matter how I style them Im always drawn back to waitressing in dingy cafes in the 1980’s.
Dodie says:
A friend of mine slathers her beautiful feet with Vaseline when breaking in new shoes. I tried this recently and was amazed by how effective this was. Worth giving a try?
Hello Maudie, Oh Style Mentor – they’re old 501s. I checked to see if there’s any other information but sadly not.
themis says:
Oo, but what brand are the navy clogs, please-? I’m about to pull the trigger on another pair of No. 6s, and I’m wondering if there’s another gold standard out there.
Hello themis, I’m not sure these are gold standard but they are proper Swedish clogs from Troentorp
Joanna says:
I was going mention Carolina Herrera. She wears the white shirt so well. I think she might have been the inspiration for a crisp, white shirt and a formal, long skirt. I love that look! A white shirt is elegant in a relaxed way.
I have many white shirts in my closet, from 3/4 sleeve to long sleeve. I like to pop my collar and turn back a cuff. My preference is to fully tuck, then release a tiny bit. And, always a belt. I still have a small waist so it suits.
I love the shirt and the jeans. Are those 501’s REALLY vintage, i.e. – did you get them used? Or are they part of the new 501 collection? I’m so confused on the 501s because I grew up with them and they were narrow thighed, but the knew ones on the Levi website, and in countless Instagram shots, look different to me. I’ve got a proper athletic booty (and thighs to match) so I’m not sure that original (or vintage) 501s will work for me. I love the jeans you are wearing, but they do not look like the original 501s from my memory. Please explain.
Hi Junglesiren, they are old 501s . I bought them second-hand from a local vintage shop several years ago, for £25. Bargain!
Thanks. I will re-examine the offerings because I love those jeans. Perhaps my memory, after 5.5 decades of life, menopause, brain surgery, chemo, radiation and the good ol’ rock n’ roll drugs of my younger years…. fails me. Yup, I reckon the possibility does exist.
Oh… and while I have your attention, let me pose another request. I am attending my uncle’s 90th birthday in late September in Connecticut and I need a dress. Fancy but not extravagant, as my family is very working class and I don’t want to come across as a wealthy twit – I am not wealthy…. and only sometimes a twit – I plan not to be a twit that night. I’m willing to pay up to 500 USA bucks (but I’m just as happy not to go that high), and it would be great if it is something that I could also wear later to the occasional red carpet event. Any suggestions would be well appreciated.
Your fan forever….
P.S. – My arms and my collar bones are the stars of my body show.
Beverly Poag says:
I’m not Alyson, but take a lead from Carolina Herrera and pair a sweet crisp white shirt with a formal (taffeta) plaid ling skirt. Bet some of your working class wonen relatives would take your lead…chic, but stylish.
That’s a thought. I love CH’s style. I need a little more umpf for the occasion, though. Trust me…. my relatives would not love it. They’d think I just left an office party.
I’ll do that at another event.
Thanks.
Marilyn L says:
I love a soft white shirt but sometimes find the slightly stiffer materials make me look like a balloon when tucked in as I am short waisted.
Rhoda says:
Hurrah for the white shirt!
I never feel better than in a crisp white shirt – cuffs rolled up – dark denim jeans and some chunky silver bracelets. That’s my go-to for a reliable feel-good factor and works in so many contexts. Am also a fan of the blue shirt – crisp cotton, denim, chambray, linen. And a navy linen shirt is a good summer perennial, too.kathryn says:
Love the shirt, hate the ironing. Yes, I know blends avoid this, but they are so HOT (maybe not a problem in UK?) and so not environmentally friendly. Currently trying to avoid the plastic where and when I can. (Not a perfect process.)
Mrs Tonia says:
Alyson as ever this style suits you. I’m not a white shirt person and although I’ve bought some I tend to give away the plain ones. I have several white tops either with Broderie anglaise part sheer in sleeves or all over which I like to wear instead. And in last year or two I’ve embarrassed the blue striped men’s type shirt. Not my style previously but seem to look right now. For someone fighting tubby mid-section the secret is loose but not too much. And fitting well in shoulders and across the bust. In some shirt dresses I’ve had darts put in back around waist to pull in the fullness so they hang straight in the front with less fabric flapping around the midriff.
And yes I agree with others the straight leg jeans look good and comfortable. I’m in wide leg Gap jeans today and have grown into this look. Bought last year they now look right once the eye adjusts to this looser leg silhouette. Glad I didn’t crop them into culotte length which I can still do later.Dianne says:
Love a white shirt. I have worn them for years. I have taken to wearing my sons. Or buying the same as his.
Uniqlo do fabulous men’s shirts. That really look good on women as well. Converted a few friends.
But as Alison says you need the right one.
They are bit like red lippy. Anyone can wear it you just need the right one.A. Murphy says:
I too love a white shirt….men’s worn over a vest, schlepping round the house/garden, M&S tucked into wide legged navy trousers, as a jacket over patterned harem pants, over slim black trousers etc. Have several men’s dress shirts, one with pin tuck front, they make a great tunic….. the list is endless!!! Then a sweater over the top when the weather gets colder…..
Interesting that you mention Arket – when I walked into the store in Amsterdam on Thursday all I could think of was thatsnotmyage – it’s so you! I could picture you in nearly everything I saw 😉
Sally says:
You are wearing my all time go-to favorite daily wear in your photo—right down to the clogs. Big white cotton men’s shirt is my absolute favorite.
Barb Thompson says:
Just bought one for the first time in my life. I just hate ironing! So, I will try to wear it, but will not be too surprised to find it sitting in my closet until I get around to ironing it… It looks fabulous on you.
Debs Chowney says:
I love my white shirts, including a couple of grandad collar ones, which I think work well with jackets. My tip, wash hot at 60c (if you are sure they won’t shrink), use soda crystals and make friends with spray starch!
Rochelle says:
I refuse to iron in a heat wave! No-iron white cotton shirts from Foxcroft (online) are a staple for me. Not quite the obviously oversized men’s look Alyson has going on but as these days I’m oversized, I prefer a neater fit.
Camilla says:
I only wear white shirts when required to ( for instance, with a choir I recently performed with). I love then on others, but white has never been good for my complexion (a faded ginger). I’ve done ivory, but white does not do me any favors…
Patrish says:
I have had great luck with men’s tuxedo shirts. Tucked, half tucked or not tucked at all over slim black pants or jeans.
Sleeves rolled up. Statement bracelet. Faux diamond stud earrings. Compliments galore.Alina says:
I wore formal shirts under suits to work for a number of years before smart casual was introduced and was ignoring shirts outside work .
But since then I collected a number of white shirts of different design/cut and I love them! The look works with jeans, trousers, shorts or skirts , on holiday or city break. I even have one that looks like. T shirt but it is made from poplin , I bought it in San Jose from Muji.
If I was sent to the desert Island i will take jeans and 2 white shirtsElizabeth says:
Sorry, I just don’t get the (plain) white shirt obsession. Despite being told so, it’s not for everyone.
It definitely is not everyone’s cup of tea. If you’re busty, or broad shouldered, it is not a flattering look. I know “they” say everyone should have at least one in their closet but let’s face it, we don’t all have the same bodies and/or style. I am small busted and narrow shouldered with a classic, tailored aesthetic and have many in my repertoire. But, none of my friends wear them (for various reasons). Wear what suits you and makes you happy. End of story!
Susie says:
I bought a beautiful Marni shirt ( secondhand £20 !). But as ever I don’t know how to go about my life without getting it dirty before the morning is over. Sorry to be so practical but I really want to know how you do it. Someone tell me. Ive spent my life avoiding white for that very reason. Maybe I’m just a dirt magnet?
Come on women – share your secret.Kelle says:
I don’t wear white shirts for this reason. I’ll have coffee or sauce dripped down the front by mid-day.
SFord says:
Would love to wear this but unfortunately I have swimmers’ shoulders (although I am not a swimmer!) so I find any kind of shirt very restrictive across the back and armpits – I have to take it off as soon as I put it on.
I have found a couple of lovely, soft white blouses (for the want of a better word) which are 3/4 length sleeve, granddad collar and v neck which I wear as an alterative either at work over skinny trousers, wide legged trousers or at home over khakis or jeans
gilly says:
I try not to buy white clothes because they are never white once washed. A shame as these shirts are amazing.
Ann says:
I adore white shirts. But I’m gobsmacked to learn that anyone has 75 white shirts in her closet. There might be a diagnosis for that.
jill shooter says:
Just had a quick glance in the wardrobe and 6 white shirts nestling there, add the one I’m wearing – Zara, so as they say ‘I’m with you’! Have added a couple of pale blue this year but always go back to my oversize white, love them!
Toni says:
I am on holiday on Majorca and have just bought a white linen shirt at a street market.It was too wide at the back.Made me look bulky until I put a belt around my waist.Now Iove it.
Anna Herscher 
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Alison I love a white shirt but now I’m older Ive become ’round’ in the torso department…. I’d be interested to know your thoughts on the pros and cons of tucking big shirts in. There is a fine line between wafty and tent I find. However I am inspired enough to go and give it another go. Love your work x