Slow Fashion and reassessing shopping habits
Second-hand Margaret Howell jacket and 25-year-old jeans. Photo: Claire Pepper
Second-Hand September went according to plan. Oxfam has reported that 62, 000 people signed up for the online pledge and 37, 000 shared posts on social media. For me, the month flew by without any spending on new items of clothing, shoes or accessories. Bingo. I knew I could do it. Not being smug, not buying clothes for 30 days is hardly difficult. One of the personal and planet-friendly positives has been the space this initiative has provided me to consider what’s hanging in the wardrobe. To think about what works and what stays hanging in the wardrobe. Over the month, I’ve taken a small bag of clothes to the charity shop (this included a petrol blue Jaeger cropped fitted jacket that I haven’t worn since I was a magazine fashion editor, a black cotton shirt with fiddly buttons that was high on Faff Factor and a pair of Converse All Stars – can’t wear them, too flat, they make my feet hurt). And, very kindly gifted my friend’s twin daughters a pair of old-but-barely-worn jeans each for their 15th birthday. I think they appreciated my commitment….Happy Second-Hand September.
Having successfully fulfilled my pledge, I am going to continue not buying anything new. For how long, I don’t know. I have lots of clothes and I don’t feel the pressing need to buy more. Numerous people on social media are supporting the Extinction Rebellion #boycottfashion campaign – participants are urged to repair, recycle and re-use for a year. While I am sure this is incredibly freeing, I’m not going to make this commitment. As part of my job, styling outfits and finding winning combinations does occasionally mean buying new things; I love how a carefully selected addition can unlock on old favourite. Instead, I will continue to champion Slow Fashion by making the most of old clothes, buying sensibly, supporting small business and shopping for vintage.
One of my friends, clearly bored with my blathering on about sustainability, asked me not to get too worthy about fashion. Highlighting the pleasure that treating yourself to a new item of clothing, every now and then, can bring. I do enjoy clothes. And fashion can be empowering. We all want to feel good, to feel confident about how we look, to wear nice clothes. Not everything about fashion is bad. Though certain industry practises need to be addressed if we are going to reduce environmental damage and have a more circular system (as discussed at Fashion Revolution Week). Another friend has worked in retail all her life and we discussed how precarious the climate is right now. The UK fashion industry is a huge employer, (approx 890, 000 jobs) and we all want to support good business and continued employment.
It’s complicated. It’s about considerate consumption, and it’s a work in progress.
More details about the outfit in this photo HERE.
Discussion (39 Comments)
All good points! A work in progress indeed and an ongoing lesson in mindfulness. I’m with you al the way. Let’s not throw the baby out with the bathwater! Thanks for another thoughtful and inspiring post.
I am a dedicated thrifter and wearer of second hand clothing and it is complicated. The fashion industry is huge and many people around the world depend on it for their livlihood. I agree that slow fashion, second hand clothing and conscious consumption are all steps in the right direction. My twin daughters have their 15th birthday coming right up, and I am doing my best to convince them too.
Jenny Bourke says:
Have read your posts with interest and didn’t shop in September, reappraised my wardrobe, had a couple of things altered to fit better etc. Most surprising event was going to a party wearing a lovely old top and trousers and being complimented on them. Well done to everyone involved and as you say we need to support the fashion industry but encourage those who support sustainability.
Jill Shooter says:
I also had a good think about my wardrobe and fashion during September. I have since bought 2 new jumpers, one item I don’t think translates well to the pre-loved market. I have however offset that with a wonderful find of a short Barbour jacket and a lovely soft and well worn denim jacket in one of my local second hand shops.. I will look there first now and definitely mix and match my purchases.
wise not to buy anything new…have just found in a hospice charity shop a perfect early 70’s Aquascutum brown P.O.W. check wool suit with front flat pleated skirt & a very neat jacket…one tiny mark on jkt which took 30 seconds with a toothbrush & cold water to remove.
Cost £35 ( & going to a good cause, not a mega global corp)….cost new from Celine apprx £4000 & it wd not be fine English wool either…. You just have to be patient & know what’s what.maudie says:
Yay. I just ‘copied’/was inspired by this winter’s Celine and bought an Aquascutum a-line front pleat skirt on ebay for a song and a Daks checked skirt in a charity shop. (British brands too!). As you say, 100% wool and made to last. My Pinterest board Celine a/w is my long term shopping list for the charity shops and I dug out my existing silk scarves and long boots and I am good to go. Total cost minimal. Patience is a virtue when it comes to the charity shops but somehow these things always appear even if (a toothbrush), stain remover, needle and thread or heaven forbid, a trip to the dry cleaners is the order of the day. Today’s happy find was a Debroyal Lanacryl (that is Debenhams wool and acrylic thanks to a google search) chartreuse/lime 60s style jumper with a subtle gold trim which will be fab with smart trousers for ‘do’s’.
Isobel says:
The last clothing item I bought (2nd hand, of course!) was on August 31st, then during September I, too, was able to donate a number of items that weren’t perfect for me, leaving me with fewer pieces than ever before, but all of which I love and wear. From now on, anything I buy will be something I feel I really need, so if I can’t find it in an op-shop I’d be prepared to buy new, eg Birkenstock sandals this summer.
As far as Converse All Stars, Alyson, I can’t imagine NOT wearing them, but if I wore them without my favourite insoles, my plantar fasciitis would be back with a vengeance! I buy some here in Australia called Realign, from a sportswear shop, and they have an inbuilt hard plastic arch support, from soft to very firm, along with ‘gel pressure zones’, and are incredibly comfortable and long lasting.
I think your approach to fashion habits is measured and practical and wise!Paula says:
Isobel, thanks for the tip regarding Realign insoles. Have been on a journey for some years now for the perfect inner sole (osteoarthritis in ankle as a result of a break 40+ years ago). Nothing fits the bill of course for every shoe but I will happily trial the Realign which I don’t think I’ve come across previously. Sadly the range of shoes I can wear is shrinking over time but it is a great opportunity of embracing a philosophical approach to self image!
I’ll be thrilled if this helps, Paula. Are you in Australia? I buy them from Rebel Sport where you can slip them out of the packet to try with your own shoes. You really have to get the right fit… I’d never buy them online, for instance, without knowing which ones suit your foot. I also can’t buy shoes unless I’ve tried them with the insoles, ‘cos you need more room. Very best of luck!
Jacqueline says:
Thank you Isobel for mentioning these. Having a bunion the size of Ethiopia good arch support is essential so I am always looking out for good off the shelf orthotics and hadn’t heard of these ones. I am in Perth so Rebel Sport will be easy to find. I usually use Scholl Othaheel which have made a huge difference to my foot and knee comfort.
Fliss says:
I am a bit undecided on this because I do think its a complex issue. As you say, thousands of livelihoods depend on the fashion industry and even the second hand stores need people to buy and pass on, otherwise there would be no stock. That said, I’ve never been a fast fashion buyer either. I do try to invest in decent clothes and a lot of my wardrobe is getting on a bit but with a few updates which I don’t want to feel guilty about buying. I quite like wearing a 10 year old dress with a new jacket or trainers.
I also had a Marvellous time in September inserting a couple of side panels into an old Joseph suit jacket from its matching skirt which had become too short to wear. Loving wearing the blazer which fits perfectly again now and you really can’t tell that the panels are not part of the design. Contemplating whether to have a go at inserting a panels down the side of tweedy coat al la Me&Em which has similarly become a bit too snug and could do with a couple of extra inches. Would save me buying the Me&Em coat but its a risk that I don’t ruin the original!!!
Mrs Tonia says:
Adding panels to create a more comfortable fit that looks more now is a really good idea. Also adding extra length to a too short skirt in a contrast fabric with matching sash belt so it looks like a deliberate design decision.
I’ve done both things but didn’t carry out the final execution myself. These sort of alterations are fiddly. Rather I had a trusted very experienced dressmaker work with my design ideas and do the actual sewing to my specifications.
Thinking of doing similar with my wardrobe once I’ve tested and tried on all garments this Autumn to see what works and what doesn’t.
Anne Murphy says:
Bought nothing in September, (other than threads for ‘stitch’ ), but new boots & pre loved linen dress on eBay in October….HOWEVER, I’ve sold 4 items on EBay & uploaded 10 more yesterday! Enjoying seeing the space in my Wardrobe & not rushing to fill it!!!
Tatjana Bourgeois says:
Alyson, This post was so pertinent to the re-examination of my own shopping habits. Having a good memory, I examined my shopping blunders over the course of the last 2 years and it was eye opening. I could have taken another vacation!
I am embracing the concept of slow fashion/ mindful shopping. I want to continue to buy items that will be with me for the long run. I also invested in tailoring some of my pieces as a good fit can make all the difference. Now days, if I come home from a shopping trip empty handed as I did not find what I needed, I actually see the “emptiness” as a gift. Of becoming more discerning. I also try to imagine the people behind my purchase and mentally that them for their labor.Marzena says:
Thank you for that. Its all about quality not quantity. I am a very discerning and rather fastidious customer. I have a just a very few favourite brands of mine , which every has a story behind and respect. I cherish that , the same as the most important : good taking care of one’s treasured possessions, hence they last long. I have got so called “living wardrobe” , which I am very proud of . I do appreciate well made clothes. I am so very much against fast fashion and buying just for a sake of it. Style that is what matters.
Lesley Somerville says:
I’m buying much less (actually nothing) on impulse, reworking old outfits with your help, and saving money which I can choose to spend on better quality clothing that will last and hasn’t been made by children in the Third World. We have been so conditioned to think that buying ‘stuff’ is the path to our own happiness and also economic well being. No doubt it works for some, but I don’t see the poorly paid women making these clothes getting rich or happy. Things just have to change and we will all be happier for it. I don’t think of it as ‘giving up’ something; I think of it as regaining control.
I love reading your perspective on this Alyson. My blog post yesterday was the same issue but with a twist of agitation and a dollop of anger…whoops.
I think it’s important for bloggers and influencers alike to start pushing less shopping now as opposed to more. Thanks for writing such a positive post on this.Lee Lenahan says:
I’m learning to be bolder and mix different patterns and colors. Lived in Japan for 14 years where I could not buy anything (5’9″, 180 lbs)!! My basic was all black with funky jewelry. Since I was much taller than the general population, my height was the focus, not my clothes. I also never built up a wardrobe. Now I like to buy less but buy quality.
EX CHARITY GIRL says:
Alyson Can I be really SMUG here. I’ve been a sustainable shopper all my life ie jumble sales and Charity shops.
However since having a Hip Replacement and going through the Menopause I have gone from being a size 12/14 to a size 16. I can live with that, I eat healthily, don’t smoke rarely drink and walk everywhere and thanks to our NHS I am completely pain free, but I cannot believe how ugly fashion is for women size 16 and over. I mean really really ugly. I’ve not been able to find anything in any of my local Charity shops that I would wear.
On the plus side (no pun intended), if you ever chat to the women (and they must be women) who are re-organising M&S , can YOU give them a thumbs up from me. Clothes I would wear in all sizes. None of that hideous draping and that horrible knot in the middle with pleating. to hide a tummy (WHY). I bagged myself a’ Holly Willoughby loves’ green boiler suit, (size 16) in the 80% sale £8 and pretty blush pink slip skirt for £3. Happy days and just to add to my smugness I managed to fill a charity bag with all the clothes that I will never get into again.
Thanks to you Alyson and all those other brilliant women for pushing the diversity and fashion for women of all sizes.
Jax says:
I think you bring up a good point. It is much more difficult for women (and men) in the larger sizes to shop sustainably in charity and secondhand/vintage stores, because it’s difficult to find those sizes there. Shopping new, it’s easier to find more variety of sizing (and even more so for sizing that overlaps a couple different categories — petite and size 16, for example).
Having said that, of course, one can still buy less and then when needed, shop with care and thought. And one can also widen the net by looking at online secondhand and consignment stores, such as Poshmark, or rent clothing like Rent the Runway (US only?).
We all have to be much more considerate and strategic. There’s a lot of changes the retail industry need to make, for sure.
https://www.bbcearth.com/blog/?article=your-brand-new-returns-end-up-in-landfill
Sascha says:
Great post! And it’s applicable across the board. I am not a great fan of the current boycott-mania sweeping social media. The wrong people are usually hit, those sustainable family businesses that pay for ballet lessons, food and three bedroom houses. Instead of boycott, the buzz words should be conscious, considerate consumption. Know that story of the garment you buy, preferably buy it in a shop, be realistic about pricing (A new British made coat made in small runs out of natural fibre with few product miles will set you back £250 plus…..it can’t be done for £50!) and love the garments you buy. Add pieces to complement what you have. Food shopping, meat eating, clothes shopping……they all need a good, common sense re-think and not a populist, knee-jerk boycott reaction. Own your timeless, considerate style and make it the hight of fashion!
Excellent article: very thought-provoking. I confess, I didn’t partake in second-hand September, I just knew I wouldn’t last 30 days…but I did think carefully about what I did buy. However…in case this makes up for it…I don’t think I’ve ever thrown any clothing into landfill. If the material is suitable and the garment totally unsaveable, it gets torn into rags or dusters, if it’s pretty fabric but the garment equally unsaveable, the fabric is saved for patchwork and quilting. Everything else either goes into recycling, charity or ebay. I only wear items once before washing, so only require very low temperatures meaning the garments stay pristine and in good condition (I don’t believe in dry cleaning!), and I’ve yet to fail to sell an item I’ve auctioned. Considered disposal of unwanted items is the key, I think, and more companies manufacturing clothes with recycled products.
Thank you for this thoughtful post.
I recently made a jacket for myself – very simple linen construction, my own design. It took a great deal of time and thought to sew, and is not at all perfect. Making the jacket was my attempt at saving money, making something unique and teaching myself new skills (eg fitting in a sleeve). It also made me more thoughtful about just how much effort has to go into a well made piece of clothing. And for all these reasons I will be mindful when purchasing any new clothes. Is it reallyfor me? Is it made from sustainable material (one reason I chose linen). etc…
I too am following the slow considered fashion approach and bought nothing new in September apart from a functional bathing suit from a French sports shop while on holiday to replace a saggy one and a pair of leggings DKNY high cotton high Lyra from a branch of TK Maxx for yoga classes.
Got through no spend September with plenty of outfits to wear and am inching into the change of seasons trying to redeploy what I already have. On Saturday to go to see Tim Walker, wonderful and wild installations at V and A I wore a several years old cinnamon coloured high necked long sleeved long skirted Oska dress with a silk and wool scarf Paul Smith men’s one from Joesph in 90s. Washed it in Brora cashmere wash and hung to dry over shower. I felt well dressed and was complimented on my More Dash than Cash outfit.
Like everyone else I love having new things to put on. But these will have to represent value for money and fill gaps in my existing wardrobe
Many of my pullovers have been attacked by moths and after storing in freezer in bags now am faced with a pile needing darning and repairs They will be fine for layering under jackets and wearing at home when repaired.
But with a birthday very soon I treated myself to two new pullovers. One an olive cashmere crew neck at Uniqlo by Ines de la Fressange marked down considerably. The other a thick raglan sleeved sunflower yellow wool one in a small local boutique stocking British natural fibre clothes. It is not only less expensive but better quality than one I considered of mostly acrylic made in China I saw at French Connection.
As Alyson mentions it is a complex question. Too many retail outlets are going bankrupt and closing with loss of livelihoods. I read today that all House of Fraser shops having been bought at bargain rates earlier will now be shut down with further loss of jobs and boarded up buildings in town centres.
Hard to know what is to be done.Alix says:
Great post! I’m going through my wardrobe at the moment and getting rid of things that, while they are still “ok” are either a bit tired or I never really loved them in the first place. Was recently on holidays and realised that my shoes were all extremely old and while they still performed the function of “shoe” weren’t really doing me any favours. I’m happy not to shop, but I do love to sew my own clothes, but I figure that’s Slow Fashion as it’s certainly not instant gratification and makes me think about what I want to spend my time on. Have also recently left full-time office work to work from home in a much smaller city – no longer any need for high heels or office-appropriate attire (although it was a pretty creative office) but am making best attempts to stay stylish, even at home. Thanks for your constant inspiration.
Fiona Fulford says:
I made I through September without buying anything new, but only just! It wasn’t so hard as I don’t see clothes shops worth bothering about without a trip. What was harder were the FB ads that crop up! I’m going to block them.
I bought during September (to sate my spending desires) a £3 scarf and an oversize plaid, lumberjack shirt – £2. Both charity shop finds! The latter was originally bought to wear to an art class, but I loved it so much I’ve started wearing it. It’s an XL mans one, and while not metro stylish, it does me well around my village and home. Comfy with a California vibe.
I agree with all the comments above about working your wardrobe. I’m going to try harder.
Oh well done you for making this change – we need more influencers to do the same. I followed the Second-Hand September ethos with an attempt to buy no fashion items whatsoever, even from charity shops, and cracked only on the 29th when I bought 2 second-hand items. We have to change our ways and while we do our bit, which is important, it is shops like Zara that’ll have to make major changes to their outlook and ethos. Conscious shopping for clothes is absolutely the way to go.
Great post 🙂
MaryRose O'Sullivan says:
I found a beautiful olive green velvet jacket in Oxfam in Cork and a pair of brown brogues. Best thing about second hand September was making more mindful shopping decisions and the pleasure of visiting vintage and charity shops. Before I was slower to say something was second hand but that’s changed and I’m proud of it now! Thanks for highlighting this Alyson.
Gill Dean says:
We used to laugh at the nuns at school because they mended their stockings, but I admit to owning a pair of Wolford opaque tights that I bought 20 years ago and have mended them twice. They were hugely expensive (to me) at the time. And of course they’ve expanded with me over the years.
MaryRose – Snap! I found a vintage rust velvet jacket in the Sue Ryder charity shop today – British Home Stores Made in England (not even BHS!) size 16 which fits my size 12 perfectly. Even BHS made quality clothing aeons ago! I thought I could match the jacket with the pseudo- Celine skirt! Gill – I also have antiquated Wolford opaques and yes, I have mended them too!
Stephanie says:
We need a second hand September here in the U.S. Thanks for this great post. I am in my third year of not buying new clothes. Now when I go into a department store the clothing and outfits look unappealing to me, generic and repetitive. It’s more interesting to shop my closet for new combinations, plus my sewing skills are hitting a new level as I deconstruct to reconstruct!
I really like the phrase Deconstruct to Reconstruct
I shall adopt this and also plan to do so myself in sewing projects.
JoansGate says:
I’m approaching 70 y/o, retired 3 years ago in a management nursing position, wearing business casual outfits, except on Fridays. I bought high quality clothing at the time, from Nordstrom, and am happy to say that the tunic tops from 10 years ago look brand new and are machine washable! Because of my age, I do not go for the latest fashion aka those “cold shoulder” blouses, so I never bought them. Having been a hippie girl in my late teens and 20s, I bought from thrift shops. Today I use ThredUp online–great website. Back to your idea of not buying new clothes: Kudos! I’d also like to thank the other commenters for their interesting posts; I find them enjoyable on this rainy morning here in Rhode Island.
Gdf says:
Can I add to this long but fascinating thread the Toast Circle, launched last night in London in the Notting Hill branch? An opportunity to swap pre-loved Toast garments. There was also an excellent and inspiring talk by Lucy Siegle, although I think she was preaching to the converted! More events and forums like this keep the fun in sustainable shopping, and promote the idea that clothes have a life beyond one wearer. Thank you Alyson for your interesting and inspiring blog!
I took it a bit far today when I bought an Italian black jacket today at a charity shop. As soon as I tried it on I felt I looked slimmer, younger and felt pretty darn great. It clung and swung in all the right ways. For $10. Just as I was about to pay I saw a tear on the back – but as it was the back seam and only a 2cm rip I could fix it myself. It was half price on all clothes day so $5. They reduced it to $4 because of the rip. Putting it in my car I saw a stain I’d missed due to poor lighting in shop. 30 minutes in the washing machine on the recommended cycle and I’m rocking that jacket!
I don’t buy huge amounts anyway and someone somewhere making things has to live, that’s the sad reality, but buying more thoughtfully is definitely something important to me. I’ve started thinking about clothing mush as I do about my food or other things in life in terms of either curating my belongings or aiming for a varied mix – I repair and keep in good condition, I consider the ingredients/what it’s made of, I buy from different countries of origin. The last point has become really important to me when considering the wellbeing of people making things – if I want to value what I HAVE bought then I want to value those people too. I think this is a really interesting discussion and I also think we are evolving our thoughts around this so it’s important to keep curious about what other people think about this topic
Sara Hanson says:
I don’t know where I picked this idea up but now I try to only buy something I know I can wear 30 times. This is possible apart from celebration outfits (Christmas /weddings) but I have found that even these can be brought out years later and worn again. I have discovered that the more I wear something the more I like it and the more ways I can find to wear it. I’ve managed the year without buying new and found that this needs to be September to September so you don’t buy in winter or summer – January to January does not work.
My wardrobe is now much smaller and I wear everything. I have started to go to clothes swops now and have often been thrilled with my swops – last time I swopped two charity shop coats which still looked great for a new pair of shoes.
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I agree that thoughtful clothes shopping is a joy and sustains an industry which we want to thrive. But quick fix fashion, like quick fix food and quick fix repairs is essentially unsatisfying and costs more in the long run. I’m old enough to want to follow my mum’s adage of buy less and buy better…