Foraging for vintage fashion this February
Photo: Charity Super.mkt (via Instagram)
I didn’t realise I wanted a sherbet yellow fluffy jumper until it was staring me in the eye. I’d not considered possessing such a garment, until it was in my hands: yellow, fuzzy and enticing. At only £2.95 in an RSPCA charity shop, that Big Bird ball of fun became one of winter’s most-worn sweaters bringing some much-needed playfulness to the dreary months.
There’s a lot to be said for fashion foraging.
Although I have a clear idea of the classic pieces I commonly wear, I always leave space for the serendipitous encounter. We might know what we need but don’t always know what we want, until it finds us. Or, we find it. Like bargain-hunters, thrifters or rummagers, the fashion forager will quest for the undiscovered gem and is prepared to invest considerable time in this illusive hunt.
Jade Halbert, a Glasgow-based fashion historian and lecturer is a seasoned style hunter and believes a combination of visual and haptic skills are necessary for effective foraging. ‘First, you need to ‘get your eye in’ and identify potentially winning items by print, cut or embellishment. I can run my hand along a charity shop rail and distinguish the quality linen, cashmere, silk or cotton items from the poorer quality pieces.’
Vintage shoes. Photo: Charity Super.mkt
The fast fashion revolution has had a detrimental knock-on effect on the overall quality of clothing in charity shops. Many are now flooded with cheap cast-offs, not necessarily old but poorly made from cheap fabrics. In order, to create clothes at these prices, you have to consider the potentially dubious working conditions of the garment makers which may include children. The thought is not conducive to happy shopping.
The fashion forager thrives in certain environments: jumble sales, junk shops, yard sales, markets, boot fairs, clothes swap parties, kilo shops etc., anywhere that hasn’t been merchandised to death and invites a sense of discovery; anywhere that doesn’t do all the thinking and finding for you. On the high street and aside from the second-hand sector, discount outlets like TK Maxx or designer villages are also siren calls to the wily forager.
The treasure hunt principles can also be applied in an online context. ‘Vinted is great because the emphasis is more on wardrobe clearing than profit-chasing so prices are more reasonable,’ enthuses Halbert who found a vintage camel John Galliano jacket on Vinted for £30. Colette Bardell, an Ayurvedic Consultant seeks out accessories on eBay and recently found a silver crochet beret for a fiver. ‘You really have to focus online. It’s easy to get distracted.’
Photo: Allison Christine from Unsplash
With cheap price tags, the temptation to splurge is strong but likely to be a false economy. In these environments of plenty, whether physical or online, more discernment is required, not less. The mindful forager is just as likely to come away empty-handed and would prefer this to a basket of tat that will sit, equally unloved, in a dark wardrobe.
Bardell continues, ‘I always check for flaws like holes, stains or missing buttons. If the garment is damaged, I ask myself, ‘can it be repaired or upcycled?’ Other key questions to weigh up the tat or treasure conundrum are: Is it something I can wear immediately? How will it work with the rest of my wardrobe? Does it fit properly? What is the quality and make like? Bargain or not, you want the piece to work for you and to last.
‘Foraging is a challenge and adventure and keeps me focused on quality and fit rather than the latest trends,’ adds Halbert. HR Advisor, Zoe Michael believes ‘buying something unique and cheap can be a real kick and therapeutic plus it’s sustainable so, I also feel like I’m doing my bit for the environment.’ When you find a wonderful surprise via foraging, something you hadn’t really considered before, it’s a similar thrill to discovering a new musician on Spotify. Leaving space for chance encounters needs an open mind and a willingness to embrace the unexpected.
Happy foraging!
Nilgin Yusuf is a freelance writer and regular TNMA contributor.
Wayne Hemingway and Maria Chenoweth
SECOND-HAND STYLE NOTE: London Foragers, don’t miss the Charity Super.mkt.
Designer Wayne Hemingway and CEO of Traid Maria Chenoweth have joined forces to create a ‘ charity shop department store’ in the former TopShop at Brent Cross Shopping Centre. The 10 charities involved, include: Age UK, Traid, Shelter, Barnardo’s and Cancer Research, and the supermarket is open until 12 March 2023. More details HERE.
Discussion (13 Comments)
Boadicea says:
Oh boy, next to letting myself loose amid secondhand or charity shops’ bookshelves is the anticipation of then moving onto the clothes rails. (Incidentally, is anyone else loving Hotel Portofino just for the fashions?) The importance of re-cycling apart, I am always aware that someone, somewhere has paid the often exorbitant original price for something I’m getting for a fraction of that cost. Had they not done so, I would not be buying; someone has to start the chain. So thank you to them!
That must be a very satisfying way to look at it. And when anyone asks, ‘where did that come from? you can just name check the brand bypassing the foraging spot (should you wish!)
Karen says:
Yes! I have been a fashion forager for almost forty years, and a good half of my clothing is secondhand. Since moving to back of beyond, I mostly forage online. I’ve had moderate success with Vinted and Thredup and slightly more with eBay. My favorite though is Etsy. You have to narrow your search to vintage, but that’s okay. I find that overall the descriptions – measurements, fabric, and any flaws – are better there than anywhere.
Debs C says:
I have some gems in my wardrobe all purchased second-hand, from labels now gone, but labels in my youth I wished I could afford and only ever managed to buy in sales, so I was that Boxing Day visitor to the West End in London to purchase a coat, or find basics that otherwise were beyond my salary at the time. I have a great Planet dress, very different from that featured in their ranges towards the end of their time and is a double layer tunic style, with a wonderful weighty fabric, very not their usual aesthetic but they did have items that challenged even their target market in the 80s . 90s, I have a couple of Jobis jackets (very Chanel style) before the label was bought up and they are wonderfully tailored and very flattering, a pair of St Michaels pink leather loafers made in England, and I really do miss the St Michaels label quality of old, alongside the designs you could only buy from their Marble Arch store. For me it is about material, construction which makes items flatter not cling, even details you rarely see on clothing now such as darts, pleats, unusual buttons and I find that price is no longer a determinant of quality. My latest buys this year are an Olsen merrino twin set, in a plain cream, needed a wash and I darned a tiny pull using embroidery cotton (often a great way to repair wool) from Vinted but the weight of the wool makes it a great item to wear. From my favourite charity shop, a very plain, no collar, very soft, mid length black leather coat, from M&S, which fits like it was made for me. It was £25 and I don’t hesitate at the price as it is a hospice shop and know that you’d struggle at a much higher price point to find anything comparable. Secondhand for me is a place to find items that the high street just no longer has to offer.
bev says:
As a lifelong charity shopper – long before it became trendy and I was just broke – I have acquired some gorgeous items that no-one could wrestle from me. Sadly lots of charity shops now over process, over price and put out loads of cheap tat. The golden days of a good rummage in a none too tidy/slightly musty charity shop are over and they have been slicked up. Although some obscure country/coastal locations are treasure troves. Personally I miss the jumble sales!
Ooh, jumbles sales! Weren’t they wonderful? My mum and I were always near the head of the queue, excited at what we might come across. For her, it was trinkets and for me, it was books (even then) and maybe a ‘new’ jumper. I’m sure that had Bev and I known about Mary M’s ‘do’, last week, we’d have been there! And yes, charity shops are indeed more and more upmarket: some still reasonably priced and ‘homey’ but others fielding well above my price bracket. I was astounded to see, to me, an ordinary day dress priced at £65.00 a few weeks ago in a charity shop in Norfolk. I’d never heard of the label but presumed someone in the shop knew their posh frocks. I’ve really noticed hugely different price-ranges around the country lately, and not always in areas where one just might expect to pay a little more.
Eve McBride says:
I have loved shopping in charity shops for about fifty years now and have found some wonderful things which I still own. A local hospice charity shop had a wonderful upper floor of vintage clothes, haberdashery and other items up until about two years ago when it was decided to close off that floor. How short-sighted!
Long live vintage and the thrill of the hunt!Mary M says:
Last Saturday my friend and I organised a good old fashioned jumble sale in aid of our local food banks. The last one we did was 20 years ago. It was amazing and we raised £1500 and counting. Everything left was collected by The British Heart Foundation and Bundles of Hope a baby charity. They were all so grateful. A hugely successful day. I would encourage anyone to do the same wherever you are.
Brenda T says:
Some of my best quality items came from local charity shops. I bought two wool cardigans recently, one was from an ethical retailer and cost £60 another from a hospice charity shop and was £8. The second one is heavier, softer and more stylish. Remembering to donate back unwanted items completes the circle.
What a wonderful article about foraging for vintage fashion! Not only is vintage clothing often more unique and stylish than fast fashion pieces, but it’s also a more sustainable option. I love that the article highlights the joy of discovering a piece that speaks to you and can become a beloved part of your wardrobe. And for those interested in sustainable fashion, I highly recommend checking out Ary’s Store’s collection of second-hand and upcycled clothing. They have a great selection of pieces that are not only stylish but also eco-friendly.
Leave a Reply
This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.
Loved this article