Sustainable shopping at the Charity SuperMkt
Happy shopper at the Charity SuperMkt
Maria Chenoweth has worked in charity retail since she left school. Now aged 54 and the CEO of Traid, together with designer and entrepreneur Wayne Hemingway, she’s spearheading a new concept in clothes shopping: the Charity SuperMkt. ‘What we’re doing is creating a brand of sorts. We want all retail charities together under one umbrella for limited times in different locations.’ Starting off with a residency at the old Topshop in Brent Cross Shopping Centre, the concept has now moved on to Reading ( until 21 May 2023) and will be popping-up in Manchester on the 3- 4 June 2023 (details HERE). By gathering a group of retailers together in one place, the aim is to take charity shopping to the next level; both to protect the environment and reduce the need to make new clothes that use the earth’s natural resources. ‘ Our mission is to get as many people as possible wearing second-hand clothes,’ she continues, ‘And to support the people that make our clothes across the world.’
Maria Chenowith photo: Bel Jacobs
In her mid-50s, Maria is hitting her stride. As well as her senior positions at Traid and the Charity SuperMkt, she is a fellow of the Open University. ‘My career in charity retail started 30 years ago as a volunteer in my local charity shop. It’s a very privileged position to have gone from volunteer to CEO. I’ve seen so much happen and change,’ she says. Not only is she keen on educating the public, she herself, returned to education in her late 40s. ‘I left school with no qualifications and went straight to work,’ she says, ‘My chair asked me what training I wanted and I sarcastically replied, ‘Get an MBA.’ And she said, ‘Okay’. I applied, thinking they wouldn’t accept someone with no education. But the Open University accepted me on the basis of my work. Bloody hell! That was the fastest learning curve.’
Photos: Charity SuperMkt
Over the last couple of years, charity retailers have seen a surge in sales driven by increased footfall and new customers. Though Maria has a word of warning about green-washing, ‘The fashion brands are starting to see us as a threat. So, they are jumping on the bandwagon by offering second-hand clothes,’ she adds. ‘And some are offering platforms for resale as well. Even though they’ll make a loss on the resale platforms, they’re doing it because they’re concerned about the impact that second-hand clothing will have on their own industry. So they’d rather grab a piece of market and make a loss on it.’
‘What I really want people to think about when they’re buying clothes under the guise of sustainability from these unsustainable guys, is that it’s green-washing,’ Maria explains. ‘They’re just perpetuating the fast fashion industry which is keeping people’s wages down.’ She cites the following example, “[Some chains] have those banks where you can take your old socks and things, and they state that they give money to charities. When you donate, you’re offered a voucher to buy more new clothes – so it’s not really sustainable, is it? It’s just a gimmick to sell more.’
Shopping sustainably
Completing her MBA took Maria seven years, ‘As a single parent of three children – my parents died while [I was] studying – there was a lot of life stuff thrown at me which, in retrospect, was like a black comedy.’ She still can’t believe what she accomplished. ‘I never really valued education but it can make you see things in a very different way. It can change your mind, how you work and operate and how you talk. I think it is an incredible experience. I can’t express how valuable it is as long as you’re open to change.’
Photos; CharitySuperMkt
Second-hand is always in style
Working so closely with clothing, Maria has developed a clear sense of what she likes. Some of her favourite pieces are from the 50s: ‘A really nice black, sleeveless jumper from St Michael’s – even the label looks fifties – bought in the North London Hospice in Muswell Hill. Then I’ve got this 1950s cardigan jacket in blue and cream. It’s got one pocket and a nice button and it’s really cosy. I found it in Harrogate whilst at a conference. The last, is a really lovely taffeta dress – purple with a blue shimmer. The top had been ruined and so I had it made into a skirt.” Since hitting her fifties, Maria doesn’t care so much what others think, “I’m not scared to wear odd things. I love it. I know myself well and I’m very happy with my style. At last!’
Find out more about the Charity SuperMkt HERE.
Discussion (13 Comments)
Cindy from Canada says:
This is a wonderful article – taking away the stigma associated with shopping at charity shops and second hand stores in the past. I love Maria’s attitude about her style. I think it’s important to know where your clothes are made and that the workers are treated fairly. I live in Canada, and I only buy MADE IN CANADA, and local when possible.
I’m in Canada too. I was disappointed to discover that those Made in Canada labels can be deceiving. According to Canadian law, designers can legally use that term as long as the last substantial transformation of the garment occurs in Canada and a minimum of 51% of the cost of its creation is incurred in this country. Some items are partially assembled cheaply in Asian factories and then imported to Canada where finishing details and those all-important labels are added. Shopping second-hand is definitely the best way to go!
Mrs Tonia says:
Thanks Alyson for introducing TNMA readers to both Maria and her Charity Supermkt idea. Good luck to her with this endeavour. I used to volunteer in my Local Oxfam in the book department not clothing but did donate both books and clothing there plus buying novels and cookbooks. I still donate and buy from Oxfam and other charity shops near me. Today bought JojoMaman flowered wellies for granddaughter in charity shop.
Sarah says:
I have just come back from the Netherlands, there I saw a vintage shop that has taken over the premises previously held by a department store. It felt both like the past (I am old enough to remember jumble sales) and the future. Every type of demographic was there, every type of clothing. I hope Charity Supermkt spreads to the whole of the UK ♻️
Jane says:
I didn’t make it to Brent Cross – wrong side of London for me, but I REALLY LOVE this concept. Am an avid second hand shopper: eBay etc as well as charity shops and dress agencies. I did try a kilo sale, but think I chose badly.. all a bit smelly and way too much polyester. I do hope Maria will find another (south?) London venue in the future. I would also love to join in! Is she looking for staff I wonder?! I totally agree about greenwashing and have been eyeing some of these schemes with suspicion. Disturbing to see some charity shops full of fast fashion too.
Thanks Alyson for this great article
Dee says:
My daughter and I visited the one at Brent Cross, which was fantastic. She got a few things that she has worn may times and I bought some Levi’s which have become my favourite jeans and im sad when they go in the wash! It’s a win win situation and such a great idea.
Karen says:
Great idea. I live in the U.S. and buy vintage as much as possible. I’ve been doing so since the ’80s when I was in graduate school.
This is a fascinating article and I wish I could buy and dress this way — but surely I’m not the only one for whom it doesn’t work very well. I can sum up my problem in a phrase: range of sizes. While I am not an unusual nor large size, vintage and used seem to peter out after about size 12 or 14 (US) – I take an XL or 18. Also, there’s only one of everything. I have tried vintage, will spot something interesting, only to find that it’s in small or a 4 or 8, and that’s all there is.
With catalog, online, or department stores, I can walk in, usually (not always but pretty dependably) find something that I’d like to and can wear, even several somethings and in different colors – so that’s why I do it that way. I think successful vintage search must take some time, more than I have to “spend” on it — or else perhaps you’re around such stores often and can drop in. I simply haven’t a lot of time to shop, even though I do like to do it.
I’m glad, though, that it works for others – have fun!bev says:
Please come south of the River – this is such a wonderful idea and the idea of a selection of all the lovely charity shop clothing under one roof makes me salivate with anticipation! Despite being on a walking stick I knacker myself out trailing up and down various high streets for secondhand treasures. I either now buy secondhand (charity shops/ebay) (90 percent) or save up and buy something that I really, really want -tends to cost more than I would usually consider – and will wear for aeons. I agree – this nonsense of bringing your old items back to a shop, get voucher, buy more from said same shop is just a transparent ruse to keep their flagging profits up!
Vivien says:
I think this is what my daughter and I enjoyed at the Classic Car Boot Fair last weekend, at Granary Square in London. Two days of pre-loved shopping bliss. The charity traders seemed really happy with how it went, and the non-charity traders were really encouraging about sending punters over to check it out. The CCBF is Wayne Hemingway’s baby, and is currently twice a year – here’s hoping the Charity SuperMkt will be there again in the future. Wouldn’t it be wonderful if they could pop up whenever and wherever there’s the opportunity, all over the country!
Hi Vivien – the Charity Supermarket was in the Coal Drops Yard area at King’s Cross, alongside the Classic Car Boot. Both brilliant ideas!
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Oh wow! Please, please Maria, come to the Midlands! On second thoughts, maybe not, only because I’d probably bankrupt myself! I sign off with Boadicea – I like to think she maybe passed through my stretch of the Watling Street on one of her rampages – but believe me, Secondhand Rose would be far more appropriate! All power to you, Maria, and thank you for the heads up about retailers’ tricks.