Make do and mend: we are keeping clothes for longer & repair is on the rise!
Me and my old Levi’s jacket. Photo: Neil Mackenzie Matthews
As part of my job as a fashion journalist, lots of lovely clothes pass before my eyes – a bit like the Generation Game conveyor belt but without the memory test. And, this can be very tempting. On a Telegraph shoot this spring I wore a lovely denim jacket and very nearly splurged. But then I reminded myself that I already had a denim jacket in the wardrobe and didn’t need another one. If I wanted a collarless version, all I had to do was wait a while for my old Levi’s jacket to oblige – or, alternatively, take a pair of scissors to it.
Originally bought second-hand, I’m fond of this trucker jacket and as a Denim Lover, tend to hold onto my indigo cotton items for a very long time. Research out this week by the climate action organisation Wrap reports that 54% of people surveyed are happy to purchase vintage. Coming from the generation that grew up with hand-me-downs and jumble sale clothes it’s brilliant to see young people swerving fast fashion and choosing vintage. Obviously, the numbers could be higher, second-hand is not just for September…
Vintage Levi’s 501s
More good news… We are keeping our clothes for longer. Wrap’s research found that 59% surveyed go to a lot of effort to maintain their clothes and look for ways to repair damaged items. Several brands now offer repair as part of their service, this is something Patagonia does really well ( how cool that founder Yvon Chouinard is giving the company away to support environmental projects and save the planet); while Uniqlo is the latest company to offer an alterations and repair service in its Regent Street store. The research suggests that this kind of circular model, together with clothing rental, subscription and upcycling, has the potential to reduce the impact the fashion industry has on the environment.
That’s not my wardrobe
Living in a flat in London, I am perennially decluttering and can be quite ruthless about what I keep. The Wrap report found that the average UK adult has 118 items of clothing in their wardrobe and approx 26% (31 items) have not been worn for at least a year. There’s a lot of information on the percentage of clothes we own and actually wear and we all have our favourite go-to outfits, so this is not surprising. I’ve never counted the number of items in my wardrobe but it could be a useful exercise…
According to the research, 39% polled said their wardrobes are disorganised and there are three reasons clothes remain unworn (I’ve offered my solution in brackets). Could it be time for another Wardrobe Cull?
The item is for occasions only. (Don’t save anything for best).
The item is no longer a good fit/ comfortable. ( Why are you holding onto stuff that doesn’t fit? Get rid. It’s cluttering the place up).
I like the item but it’s not a priority – this includes everyday basics, such as, jeans, jackets, knitwear. ( Kondo it! Does it spark joy?).
Vintage denim always sparks joy in my mind
How much of your wardrobe are you wearing and repairing?
The Wrap research is into Clothing Longevity & Circular Business Models. Read more HERE. More on mending & repair HERE.
STYLE NOTES
Very old Levi’s denim jacket (there are loads on Etsy and eBay – and this one has a similar, distressed collar!). Cos tapered ankle length jeans from a couple of years ago ( different washes available HERE). The leather camera bag was a gift from Tusting. My earrings are Auree Jewellery. And my ring is by Claire Stratton.
Discussion (36 Comments)
Boadicea says:
Love the white shirt and vintage Levi’s, Alyson.
As for keeping clothes, believe me, I have a PhD in squirrelling stuff away literally for years; Wrap should have talked to me! Should I be unearthing my Laura Ashley two-pice from way back last century, I wonder? Apart from occasional charity buys, my one and only new acquisition since long before lockdown was a summer dress from Tesco – last of the big spenders me.
Wendy Headeach says:
You always look so good Alison. I have a wardrobe full of clothes I rarely wear- saving them for the ‘right’ moment that never comes! I feel inspired to just get on and wear them before It’s too late! Thank you.
Rach with an E says:
I am a one in and two out person but, looking at the above, probably need a wardrobe cull. At this stage in my life – working part time, looking towards receiving a tiny pension – I’m much more mindful of what I need, not want. Though want, not need, sparks joy!
Julie says:
As I’ve gotten older I’ve become much more considered in my clothing purchases. I think twice before I buy- do I actually NEED it – is my main motivation before any purchase. I think about all the things I’ve got in my wardrobe that I no longer wear and think will this item become another one of those. If the answers yes I put it back on the rail and walk away!
I was saddened to watch Simon Reeves documentary last night on South America and the mountains of old clothes that had been bulldozed and buried into the desert-he was literally pulling jackets out of the ground. If you need any motivation to start reconsidering how you buy clothes then this is it. Powerful stuff. Thanks AlysonSarah says:
Same Julie, that clip of Simon pulling a ‘brand new with tags’ cashmere jacket out of the soil was seismic for me. I am shopping my wardrobe this Autumn/winter.
Lizzie Guinn says:
Like you Julie, I was utterly horrified by this revelation – that bales of used clothing from Europe ended up buried in the desert in Chile. Such a terrible indictment of our throw away society.
I have always, even in my teens in the 1960’s, bought pre-loved clothing ( I prefer the old moniker ‘second-hand’ but this seems to be the 21st century’s preferred adjective). Originally it was because I had expensive taste but little money, then it became a moral decision , and eBay made the buying even easier. BUT, and I confess it’s a huge but, I now have far too many clothes . I have a wardrobe full of ‘party clothes ‘, but no one dresses up any more, even me! I am lucky enough to have stayed the same size so can still wear things I bought in my teens ( an original Laura Ashley shepherdess dress, a Biba T-shirt with 34 emblazoned in sequins on the front…..you get the picture) but my clothes are so bound up with my life history that I can’t bear to get rid of them . Things like this have ended up in the dressing up chest. I look at them and remember when I wore them or where I was when I bought them. I have given my daughter some things, but she doesn’t have quite the same love of putting an outfit together as me and tends to ruthlessly get rid of things if she doesn’t wear them.
The other thing to consider is the wish to support sustainable clothing businesses – or that’s what I tell myself when I occasionally buy a brand-new item. Life is full of conflicting thoughts…. but I still love clothes, as does my mother at 102!
June says:
I keep my clothes for ages, especially jeans and casual trousers as once I find a pair that fits, I hang onto them! I knit most of my own sweaters and if I get fed up with them eventually, I unpick, wash and reknit something else. I ruthlessly cull at seasonal change time (winter and summer), but I do have trouble getting rid of more expensive items. Even if I don’t wear them I just can’t bring myself to get rid of something that cost more than I usually spend.
Love this thoughtful post… Orsola de Castro has a great ethical hoarding philosophy, which I also love, as I’ve often regretted getting rid of things, and I do often start wearing clothes I’ve left fallow for years. But I’ve also bought stuff I don’t need, having forgotten that I’ve already got something similar…! I’ve signed up to a visible mending course with Domestika in a bid to offer decent first aid to beloved vintage items too.
Sheree says:
I think the fact that I sew a lot of my clothes makes me appreciative of shop bought. I know how much work goes into producing a garment. It also means that I hold on to clothes for longer than perhaps I should. Also, over the years, I have bought from charity shops, often remaking – if I love the fabric.
Recently, I have noticed a sharp increase in price in charity shops. This even applies to very poor items of clothing. The sort of thing that I would have put in the bin! Anyone know why this is happening? I would have thought there is no shortage of donations?Yvonne says:
Sheree, I am from Canada, and I have noticed the same thing. It seems that even charity shops have decided to get on the band wagon to overcharge since they see that department and grocery stores are gouging us. Not worth the price as the garments are very often garbage. No shortage of donations here. It’s more like greed. I used to frequent charity shops quite often and I was able to find some casual piece of clothing in good condition but it’s seldom the case now. I am not speaking for all the charity shops in Canada but the ones in Nova Scotia.
Michelle says:
Hi, Yvonne, from Vancouver Island, on the west coast of Canada. It is the same story here with regard to thrift store abundance of mostly poor quality clothing and highly inflated prices. Discouraging, indeed.
I’m from a small rural town in Alberta, Canada. I’ve noticed the same thing with the second-hand stores in major centres, but our small town stores have kept the prices very reasonable. In fact, our closest one has just dropped the price of all adult shoes and clothing to $2.50 per item in an attempt to sell more. Much of what is donated is sent on to women’s shelters and other charities.
Jennie says:
Such wise words! I started wearing my ‘best’ things in lockdown to give me a boost and show them some love! And now retired, continue when I can. Recently read a blog about boots for autumn ( sorry Alison it wasn’t you, but always come back to you!) and realised of the five must- have types discussed I already have a least one pair of each!! Many years old but still a joy to wear – and look so much better older and worn. Love shopping my wardrobe. Thank you for the inspiration.
Janet says:
I’m one of those who keeps clothes for ages; the cardigan/jacket I was wearing earlier is at least 15 years old but still looks ok. When looking at new clothes in shops, I’m now thinking that I’ve probably already got something very similar in my wardrobe, so tat article stays on the rail. More of my newer purchases seem to be coats or jackets and shoes, rather than tops, trousers, skirts or dresses. I read Orsola de Castro’s book with interest, and think her keeping items for a while and bringing them out a few years later is a lovely idea. I’m also a keen mender and re-maker of things – a voluminous skirt, for instance, can be made into a shorter skirt or possible a dress. Dying a garment is also an economical way of changing its appearance. An understanding of how a garment is made is a very useful life-skill. ( I learnt to sew/dressmake at school in the 1960’s)
Hils says:
I do keep my clothes a long time – I have jeans and all sorts much older than my teenage son – and one of my favourite things is to get the sewing machine out and alter a piece of clothing so I can wear it again. That said, I also love to buy something new every now and again. I try to make considered purchases and have been buying good quality where I can for a while with the aim that they won’t date and will last. I really don’t need any new clothes but have my eye on a few things. Shall I splurge (to help the economy) or save (to help he planet)? A conundrum.
Karen says:
I have two lovely embellished cashmere sweaters that I bought secondhand (I love Etsy). I have had them about ten years but only wore them on holidays. How silly! Last winter, I wore them with jeans and loved the effect. I plan to do that this winter, too. I am getting more ruthless about culling, too. I also wear my favorites until they are literally falling apart. I have a pink blouse that is about 40 years old and is getting very delicate….
Cindy says:
I want to suggest a book – CONSUMED by Aja Barbour. She opened my eyes to how I was spending money on clothes over the years. I only buy locally made clothes (I live in Canada) and by women run businesses.
Harriet Forde says:
Hilariously I bought that collarless denim jacket after I saw it on you! It looked SO good and it was on a huge discount . I absolutely love it and it’s so ‘me’ that I know it will be in my wardrobe for years. Had it not been, I would have sent it back.
It’s difficult to know until you’ve actually tried something on as to if it works (the downfall of internet shopping). So I apply the Mari Kondo thinking when a parcel drops thought my door…does it bring me joy, do I REALLY need it and will it work with what I have in my wardrobe – if not, the returns label get slapped no on pronto!
I’m currently on a year of no clothes spending and so spending much time on YouTube videos telling me how to mix up the clothes I already have.Patrish says:
This is a wonderful post. The ‘pressure’ to buy new is everywhere and at times, difficult to ignore. One must be disciplined and a savvy consumer…… no matter how much we are exposed to ‘new! new! new!’ one must learn to love fashion in another way. Shopping in our closets is a best first step.
As a child, I remember not having another pair of shoes until the pair I was wearing were worn out or grown out.
Alyson, you continue to be a positive force on so many levels. The best blog out there…..Thank you.Deirdre merritt says:
Brilliant comments particularly on the high price in charity shops.
I pointed to a primark ancient T shirt which was priced £5!
I informed the volunteer that it wouldn’t have cost that new!
They need to think again on the philosophy of the charity shop service in the community.
Thank you for the article
Kind regards
Dee MerrittThat made me laugh Dee! Many times I have seen Primark goods with far higher prices than they would have originally been sold for. Brave of you to point it out. Only today, I saw a cashmere jumper that had obviously been put on too hot a wash. All stiff and matted. Another on the same rail, not cashmere, was terribly “pilled”.
M says:
OK….am I crazy? I have a 365 day wardrobe plan. I don’t like making decisions each day, so I have a box of clothes for each week of the year. They are organized by color and season…to match my nail color and include a power suit option, pants outfit, skirt outfit, dress option and casual Friday attire along with weekend wear. I am still working in management. I check the weather, my appointment calendar for meetings and make a selection and am good to go for the week. I reuse and recycle, thinking carefully about each piece I add or delete. I have a current inventory and photograph each outfit so I can edit as necessary. I REALLY don’t like to stare at the closet to decide what to wear each day and I don’t want to buy separates and then claim I don’t have anything to wear with. I have plenty of boiler suits and blazers to reach for, scarves and jewelry to express my thought for the day, but really, I have been wearing things once a year for 5 years with small tweaks. It works for me.
bev says:
Fortunately I prefer secondhand, pre-worn clothes and my old clothes. Brand new fabric just FEELS so horrible on my skin even after a few washes. Also, new clothes always look too new! I like my clothes to look part of me and not an addition, if that makes sense? My greatest delight as a child was when my (wealthier) neighbour used to give my mum a bag of her daughter’s clothes for me – my joy at rummaging through was immense and her cast offs were far nicer than my family could afford. Consequently as a hard up teenager right through to hard up new mum and onwards I have always shopped in charity shops and (sad demise) of jumble sales. Now in my mid sixties and due to immune disease, mobility challenged, but I will always get my achey-breaky self to the charity shops! If I really, really want something specific I have been known to save up for it but often chicken out at the last minute. (Sorry Margaret Howell – I want your entire collection but try to cobble ‘the look’ together with the help of Pinterest!). Ebay is a good source to buy from but I tried selling and they are just too greedy with what they take and the faff is life depleting – I would rather give it to a charity shop. Yes, charity shops pricing strategy is quite an odd one – I bought a beeeeautiful, classic midi vintagey patterned Toast dress for £18 last week and the H&M dress next to it on the rail was £25. Makes no sense at all.
Gill Jones says:
Love this post and great plan for those still in work. I’m retired and I have ‘feel good in this’ an d ‘not so good in this ‘ clothes. My philosophy is wear the feel good clothes and as a retiree even though I might feel that I’m repeating my wardrobe multiple times, the number of times others will see the same outfit are limited.
That said buying new does give me a wonderful rush of excitement.Sara says:
The comment about not saving things for “best” struck a chord with me; it’s usually my most favourite items, that I think I will wear out if I have them on daily. I do need to ensure they get their fair share of outings. Why is it that you don’t always(hardly ever, in fact) know until you’ve almost worn something out that you really should have bought two of them? Sometimes it’s cost, but if I’d bought two of my favourites and none of several barely worn items, I think I’d still be quids in and have created less waste.
Mrs Tonia says:
So many points of view and comments I agree with here. I’m in the keeper school rather than Kondo approach. I frequently rewear things I’ve had for a long time. I’ve got the sewing skills to do my own alterations or at least tell a dressmaker or alteration person what I want modifying. In the past few years I’ve done several workshops on darning and patching, reviewed some on this website so I’m up to date with skills and my sewing box is full of darning wools and needles.
I fall between two stools : happy to wear knitwear I’ve repaired at home but also enjoying the feel of wearing something pristine. Fabrics of existing clothes so much better than now. More sustainable to keep wearing what one has filling the wardrobe but need to push to the front and put on and wear on everyday basis things I’ve saved for best. The sands of time flow just what occasions I’m awaiting seem hazy. Resolution this autumn and winter is to wear what I own and feel the “joy” of why I bought it in the first place.
Thanks for another informative conversation on this topic.Forgot to comment on the new service offered by Uniqlo. First visit to the new shop on Regent St. The basement of the former gentleman’s outfitter Austin Reed is now the Japanese clothing emporium. It’s barber shop in the basement with some original fittings is the repair centre. There was a rack of patched garments and examples of Japanese mending techniques on display. Someone was hunched in this artificially lit space over a sewing machine. Prices seemed fairly high for the labour. But overall worthwhile idea of salvaging garments.
Jean Shaw says:
I love the suggestion from the writer Max Daniels (posted on the Modern Daily Knitting site)–take everything out of your closets and make each item state its case on why it should be let back in!
I tend to keep things–and like others, I have the necessary repair skills.
Me too – I shall start the conversation with my wardrobe now. There will be a big pile of clothes with sad faces!
Annie says:
WOW Alyson a surprise on a truly rainy day where I got soaked rushing out to buy a loaf of bread.
Thank you so much for choosing me to win such a delightful prize. I am 69 and so love my work in NHS inpatient mental health. I am so fortunate doing the work I do.
I have to say I loath a mac (almost as much as I do scrubs) so I won’t be choosing one of those from Phase Eight, perhaps instead a lovely winter coat would be welcome.
I am always inspired by your clothing choices, fashionable and wearable. Love a pale blue shirt and a knitted beret….and I love mending things too, so satisfying.
Thank you, thank you and all good wishes, AnnieI have added this here as I don’t seem to be able to reply to your kind email.
Much as I like the crispness of tissue paper and the swanky bag that comes with buying something new there is the anxiety of removing the labels and wearing it. Once done it is immediately secondhand even if you are the first owner!
Buying secondhand alleviates this anxiety.
It is conundrum, so many textile workers rely on us buying new things in order to support their families. So much waste, so much going to landfall or abroad changing the way people dress from different cultures.
There are no easy answers, but we must do what we can and at least think responsibly about the impact our clothes have on the world.
I love mending things for myself and others. Mindfulness at its functional best.
Hope this doesn’t sound too preachy.
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The half packet wrote shot! Love! Details if you please x